Gen 2 turbo street bike build

HI. Rob. What do you think of the Garrett 42-1200c and a MAXX stand alone? How would boost by speed work with the front wheel work with it in the air? I can get a turbo kit with a Garrett 35-88 with a billet wheel but no fuel system for $4,000.00. It is in drag bike traded is it a good deal?
Maxx ecu is good. I have two to install right now.

As far as boost by speed from the front wheel goes... Think about it like this. In most cases because of drag from the brakes, and wheel bearings as soon as the front wheel comes off the ground it should start to slow down. If the ams sees a decrease in speed it will start pulling boost because it’s targeting off of mph until the front tire touches down and then starts to ramp boost back in. That strategy may or may not slow you down on the drag strip. But pouring in big power from a roll, it works the best IMO.

On non abs bikes I’ve used the factory speed sensor and it works just fine. However it does take a lot more testing to dial it in. If you’re reading rear tire speed, should you get too aggressive with the boost ramp and over power the tire, depending on where you’re at in the boost ramp the ams then just helps to incinerate the rear tire. I’ve been messing around with a few simple bracket ideas to be able to add a front wheel sensor to Busa’s that weren’t equipped with abs from factory.

As far as the G42-1200 goes, I haven’t used or seen one in action yet on a busa. I will say any of the G series stuff is just retarded how efficient that stuff is. Crazy to think you can get a 900hp capable turbo that fits in the same footprint as the typical 450hp capable turbos in stage 1-2 kits.

I remember you saying you were building a stroker motor, and displacement always helps spooling a turbo. So does fuel type. Ethanol especially methanol because you have to burn so much helps with boost response do to more exhaust volume. But with all that said, if you plan to street ride that thing I feel like you’re gonna hate it. It will get in to boost eventually. One thing to keep in mind with small engines with large turbos. Yes they’ll make more power, but the power band is a lot smaller. So power delivery is very peaky.

I looked at the dimensions of that turbo and compared it to a GTX4088. The compact G42 is 10 to 15+mm larger in any given direction. I used the 4088 for a comparison as I’ve installed several super ultra kits with those, and there’s zero extra room. RCC does a good job of positioning that turbo where the full size rad and bodywork still fits. I just don’t see how you could squeeze in anything bigger without making compromises elsewhere.
 
Maxx ecu is good. I have two to install right now.

As far as boost by speed from the front wheel goes... Think about it like this. In most cases because of drag from the brakes, and wheel bearings as soon as the front wheel comes off the ground it should start to slow down. If the ams sees a decrease in speed it will start pulling boost because it’s targeting off of mph until the front tire touches down and then starts to ramp boost back in. That strategy may or may not slow you down on the drag strip. But pouring in big power from a roll, it works the best IMO.

On non abs bikes I’ve used the factory speed sensor and it works just fine. However it does take a lot more testing to dial it in. If you’re reading rear tire speed, should you get too aggressive with the boost ramp and over power the tire, depending on where you’re at in the boost ramp the ams then just helps to incinerate the rear tire. I’ve been messing around with a few simple bracket ideas to be able to add a front wheel sensor to Busa’s that weren’t equipped with abs from factory.

As far as the G42-1200 goes, I haven’t used or seen one in action yet on a busa. I will say any of the G series stuff is just retarded how efficient that stuff is. Crazy to think you can get a 900hp capable turbo that fits in the same footprint as the typical 450hp capable turbos in stage 1-2 kits.

I remember you saying you were building a stroker motor, and displacement always helps spooling a turbo. So does fuel type. Ethanol especially methanol because you have to burn so much helps with boost response do to more exhaust volume. But with all that said, if you plan to street ride that thing I feel like you’re gonna hate it. It will get in to boost eventually. One thing to keep in mind with small engines with large turbos. Yes they’ll make more power, but the power band is a lot smaller. So power delivery is very peaky.

I looked at the dimensions of that turbo and compared it to a GTX4088. The compact G42 is 10 to 15+mm larger in any given direction. I used the 4088 for a comparison as I’ve installed several super ultra kits with those, and there’s zero extra room. RCC does a good job of positioning that turbo where the full size rad and bodywork still fits. I just don’t see how you could squeeze in anything bigger without making compromises elsewhere.
Hi THANK YOU Rob. I learn so much from your posts.
 
Maxx ecu is good. I have two to install right now.

As far as boost by speed from the front wheel goes... Think about it like this. In most cases because of drag from the brakes, and wheel bearings as soon as the front wheel comes off the ground it should start to slow down. If the ams sees a decrease in speed it will start pulling boost because it’s targeting off of mph until the front tire touches down and then starts to ramp boost back in. That strategy may or may not slow you down on the drag strip. But pouring in big power from a roll, it works the best IMO.

On non abs bikes I’ve used the factory speed sensor and it works just fine. However it does take a lot more testing to dial it in. If you’re reading rear tire speed, should you get too aggressive with the boost ramp and over power the tire, depending on where you’re at in the boost ramp the ams then just helps to incinerate the rear tire. I’ve been messing around with a few simple bracket ideas to be able to add a front wheel sensor to Busa’s that weren’t equipped with abs from factory.

As far as the G42-1200 goes, I haven’t used or seen one in action yet on a busa. I will say any of the G series stuff is just retarded how efficient that stuff is. Crazy to think you can get a 900hp capable turbo that fits in the same footprint as the typical 450hp capable turbos in stage 1-2 kits.

I remember you saying you were building a stroker motor, and displacement always helps spooling a turbo. So does fuel type. Ethanol especially methanol because you have to burn so much helps with boost response do to more exhaust volume. But with all that said, if you plan to street ride that thing I feel like you’re gonna hate it. It will get in to boost eventually. One thing to keep in mind with small engines with large turbos. Yes they’ll make more power, but the power band is a lot smaller. So power delivery is very peaky.

I looked at the dimensions of that turbo and compared it to a GTX4088. The compact G42 is 10 to 15+mm larger in any given direction. I used the 4088 for a comparison as I’ve installed several super ultra kits with those, and there’s zero extra room. RCC does a good job of positioning that turbo where the full size rad and bodywork still fits. I just don’t see how you could squeeze in anything bigger without making compromises elsewhere.
Just wanna say thanks for the lengthy informative posts.
 
Rob...and others...

MS3X vs Maxxecu mini

I have a microsquirt now... But thought of upgrading one day...if I can do it... These 2 are about same features and price
 
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Maxx ecu is good. I have two to install right now.

As far as boost by speed from the front wheel goes... Think about it like this. In most cases because of drag from the brakes, and wheel bearings as soon as the front wheel comes off the ground it should start to slow down. If the ams sees a decrease in speed it will start pulling boost because it’s targeting off of mph until the front tire touches down and then starts to ramp boost back in. That strategy may or may not slow you down on the drag strip. But pouring in big power from a roll, it works the best IMO.

On non abs bikes I’ve used the factory speed sensor and it works just fine. However it does take a lot more testing to dial it in. If you’re reading rear tire speed, should you get too aggressive with the boost ramp and over power the tire, depending on where you’re at in the boost ramp the ams then just helps to incinerate the rear tire. I’ve been messing around with a few simple bracket ideas to be able to add a front wheel sensor to Busa’s that weren’t equipped with abs from factory.

As far as the G42-1200 goes, I haven’t used or seen one in action yet on a busa. I will say any of the G series stuff is just retarded how efficient that stuff is. Crazy to think you can get a 900hp capable turbo that fits in the same footprint as the typical 450hp capable turbos in stage 1-2 kits.

I remember you saying you were building a stroker motor, and displacement always helps spooling a turbo. So does fuel type. Ethanol especially methanol because you have to burn so much helps with boost response do to more exhaust volume. But with all that said, if you plan to street ride that thing I feel like you’re gonna hate it. It will get in to boost eventually. One thing to keep in mind with small engines with large turbos. Yes they’ll make more power, but the power band is a lot smaller. So power delivery is very peaky.

I looked at the dimensions of that turbo and compared it to a GTX4088. The compact G42 is 10 to 15+mm larger in any given direction. I used the 4088 for a comparison as I’ve installed several super ultra kits with those, and there’s zero extra room. RCC does a good job of positioning that turbo where the full size rad and bodywork still fits. I just don’t see how you could squeeze in anything bigger without making compromises elsewhere.
Rob im going to be calling you very soon. I will probably set something up to ship the bike to you for the motor build and tuning of it. Sorry for not updating the thread guys lol. I purchased a precision journal bearing 5558 .82 ar for the bike. The bike has been shipped to travis and he has it now. We are waiting for the turbo to arrive to him to start the build. I will update this with pics as it progresses!
 
The turbo has landed!
image1.jpeg
 
Hey Joe....what air shifter setup are you doing....I think I want one,and an onboard air compressor
 
Alright looks like travis has just about all the parts in for the turbo portion of the build and he says he should be done with the kit in 3 weeks. Im starting to look at what all I need for the motor/trans. I know I need at least pistons, rods, headstuds, valves, and springs in the motor to handle the power. What else is a a need for a build in the mid 500s? As far as the trans I have no idea what all needs upgrading so any insight on that will be helpful. The bike probably wont see the drag strip but it will see standing half miles where I leave decently hard.
 
Alright looks like travis has just about all the parts in for the turbo portion of the build and he says he should be done with the kit in 3 weeks. Im starting to look at what all I need for the motor/trans. I know I need at least pistons, rods, headstuds, valves, and springs in the motor to handle the power. What else is a a need for a build in the mid 500s? As far as the trans I have no idea what all needs upgrading so any insight on that will be helpful. The bike probably wont see the drag strip but it will see standing half miles where I leave decently hard.
Hi. I bought custom C P Corrillo rods and JE pistons. I went with ARP 1/2 studs head and crank and ARP bolts for the cases except for the 6 mm ones for those I use aluminum ones for those. Inconal exhaust vales I also use a HD out put shaft and there out put shaft support, back cut the gears I use there lower first gear and overdrive 5th and 6th gears. Also a stud for the trans. I use ceramic bearings for the wheels, trans and cams.I had the cases modded for better oil flow so you do not need the hi pressure oil pump gear. My motor is built without any rules I had to follow, like 2 power adders turbo + NOS. If you need more info you can call me 508-496-3312.
 
Alright looks like travis has just about all the parts in for the turbo portion of the build and he says he should be done with the kit in 3 weeks. Im starting to look at what all I need for the motor/trans. I know I need at least pistons, rods, headstuds, valves, and springs in the motor to handle the power. What else is a a need for a build in the mid 500s? As far as the trans I have no idea what all needs upgrading so any insight on that will be helpful. The bike probably wont see the drag strip but it will see standing half miles where I leave decently hard.
Case studs for 500hp
 
Alright looks like travis has just about all the parts in for the turbo portion of the build and he says he should be done with the kit in 3 weeks. Im starting to look at what all I need for the motor/trans. I know I need at least pistons, rods, headstuds, valves, and springs in the motor to handle the power. What else is a a need for a build in the mid 500s? As far as the trans I have no idea what all needs upgrading so any insight on that will be helpful. The bike probably wont see the drag strip but it will see standing half miles where I leave decently hard.
Joe,
I'm in the process of building a gen2 turbo bike aswell. My goals are a little more modest (380 on pump fuel). Going to be a stage 2 ultra. Richard told me drop in headstuds would be fine, I asked about the output shaft he said not necessary. I went ahead and sent it in to robinson for some added insurance. From what I hear the gen 2 trans is pretty robust in its stock form - just inspect all the parts and shift forks. I am using gen 1 cylinders that are currently being replated by millenium, only because I got them for dirt cheap (and my cylinders were trashed). I would go ahead and get main studs, they're inexpensive compared to everything else. When I get everything assembled the plan is to bring it down to @Boosted Cycle Perf and let him work his magic.
 
Joe,
I'm in the process of building a gen2 turbo bike aswell. My goals are a little more modest (380 on pump fuel). Going to be a stage 2 ultra. Richard told me drop in headstuds would be fine, I asked about the output shaft he said not necessary. I went ahead and sent it in to robinson for some added insurance. From what I hear the gen 2 trans is pretty robust in its stock form - just inspect all the parts and shift forks. I am using gen 1 cylinders that are currently being replated by millenium, only because I got them for dirt cheap (and my cylinders were trashed). I would go ahead and get main studs, they're inexpensive compared to everything else. When I get everything assembled the plan is to bring it down to @Boosted Cycle Perf and let him work his magic.
Im trying to get it set up with boosted cycle to just ship him the bike to do the build on the motor and tune it. Hopefully that works out.
 
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