? For The Stretched Arm Guy's

[tnarmyng]

@RedBull I've got some room between my dust seal and the right wheel spacer neck.

Well you now have bits of metal inside you caliper,you may want to order up a rebuild kit,IDK. Maybe a member who has switched to a Brembo has a free or cheap one. You could ask in "Wanted"
Rubb.

I kept the caliper lower than the master cylinder always, and was just going to bleed it and slam the rear brake pedal a few times to blow anything out.

Can you tell me if these spacers look seated right to you? Can't seem to get them flush, but 99% sure wheel bearings were completely pressed co

@RedBull I've got some room between my dust seal and the right wheel spacer neck.

I kept the caliper lower than the master cylinder always, and was just going to bleed it and slam the rear brake pedal a few times to blow anything out.

Can you tell me if these spacers look seated right to you? Can't seem to get them flush, but 99% sure wheel bearings were completely pressed in.

The manual shows the "collar" far from flush, but doesn't seem far enough in to me.

Speaking of which, that "collar" doesn't look like the spacers I have. Mine is an 07.. maybe older bike in pic?

 

[rubbersidedown]

@RedBull I've got some room between my dust seal and the right wheel spacer neck.

I kept the caliper lower than the master cylinder always, and was just going to bleed it and slam the rear brake pedal a few times to blow anything out.

Can you tell me if these spacers look seated right to you? Can't seem to get them flush, but 99% sure wheel bearings were completely pressed in.

The collared spacer on the left is the OEM. The pic you have shown is how its looks fully inserted (normal) the spacer goes in the wheel on the brake disc side, inside your swingarm.It does not go in all the way. The spacer on the right looks aftermarket but should be fine as the thickness is the same as OEM. The absence of the collar should not be an issue as long as the outside diameter of the spacer is bigger than the inside diameter of the adjuster blocks you are using. Make sense?
Rubb.

 

[rubbersidedown]

DOH!...sorry,the diameter of the adjuster block is irrelevant. its the diameter of the elongated hole in your aftermarket swingarm that matters. The spacer just needs to be bigger than that hole,
Rubb.

 

[rubbersidedown]

...and your caliper...a re-build kit is like 20 bucks.
Rubb.

 

[GMbusa]

I tightened my chain slightly to eliminate the slap. It worked great.

 

[tnarmyng]

The collared spacer on the left is the OEM. The pic you have shown is how its looks fully inserted (normal) the spacer goes in the wheel on the brake disc side, inside your swingarm.It does not go in all the way. The spacer on the right looks aftermarket but should be fine as the thickness is the same as OEM. The absence of the collar should not be an issue as long as the outside diameter of the spacer is bigger than the inside diameter of the adjuster blocks you are using. Make sense?
Rubb.

Well luckily as far as the spacers I have those 2 in the pic and bought another oe set in case that was jank, too.

I've already drilled tapped and helicoiled the caliper... And then looking down into the bolt hole I realized that the drill didn't and won't leave a clean cut on the bottom for the bleeder screw to seat.

Well.. I guess an M8x1.25 pipe plug it is.

DOH!...sorry,the diameter of the adjuster block is irrelevant. its the diameter of the elongated hole in your aftermarket swingarm that matters. The spacer just needs to be bigger than that hole,
Rubb.

Comprendé. OE wheel with 240 arm makes for a difficult fitment with the axle spacers. Damn PO..

New pads, fresh fluid, and no more coat brake hanger Guess I'll have to gravity bleed it with the pipe plug as the bleeder screw.

 

[tnarmyng]

I tightened my chain slightly to eliminate the slap. It worked great.

How far over OE are you? I'm looking at uhh.. 12-14 I believe. I'm just worried that the extra tension on the chain in order to eliminate the slap will prematurely stretch it.

 

[tnarmyng]

Oh, and finished.. not perfect, but not bad.

 

[tnarmyng]

Oh, and finished.. not perfect, but not bad.

View attachment 1629879

View attachment 1629880

Also, this can mount up or down, correct, rubb? Any insight on one vs the other?

 

[tnarmyng]

This is my setup for the chain alignment. Motion pro alignment set set rod on the right. Fork fluid level adjuster kit came with the one on the left which is hollow.

Harbor freight laser temp gun poop through the tube to the front sprocket I think it was like 10 bucks, and the fork fluid kit was maybe 18, needed it anyways and didn't realize the use of 8t being hollow until I had decided to use it just because if the extra length

 

[tnarmyng]

The collared spacer on the left is the OEM. The pic you have shown is how its looks fully inserted (normal) the spacer goes in the wheel on the brake disc side, inside your swingarm.It does not go in all the way. The spacer on the right looks aftermarket but should be fine as the thickness is the same as OEM. The absence of the collar should not be an issue as long as the outside diameter of the spacer is bigger than the inside diameter of the adjuster blocks you are using. Make sense?
Rubb.

The two spacers OE have a slight difference in size, right?

Is it that small of a difference, or am I just not very handy with a micrometer?

 

[GMbusa]

How far over OE are you? I'm looking at uhh.. 12-14 I believe. I'm just worried that the extra tension on the chain in order to eliminate the slap will prematurely stretch it.

I was 10.5” stretch

 

[rubbersidedown]

Also, this can mount up or down, correct, rubb? Any insight on one vs the other?

Once you hang it on the axle,it will show you how and where it wants to be. Because of that raised rounded area,and the kanji,my guess is it is designed to have the caliper hang to the bottom,
Rubb.

 

[rubbersidedown]

The two spacers OE have a slight difference in size, right?

Is it that small of a difference, or am I just not very handy with a micrometer?

View attachment 1629886

As long as you "zero'd" yer mic before each measurement,you should be accurate. They may both fit in,and one will have slop,or one wont even fit in. Just choose the best fitting one. You dont want to have to squeeze the arms together to make a tight fit on the axle. The axle wont squeeze any tighter than the tube spacer between the bearings. Do ya follow?
Rubb.

 

[tnarmyng]

As long as you "zero'd" yer mic before each measurement,you should be accurate. They may both fit in,and one will have slop,or one wont even fit in. Just choose the best fitting one. You dont want to have to squeeze the arms together to make a tight fit on the axle. The axle wont squeeze any tighter than the tube spacer between the bearings. Do ya follow?
Rubb.

Of course. Well the OE parts list shows 2 different part #s, one left and 1 right side.

And I've got a length of spacer I can cut to size, so no worries about filling the arm accurately.

I do need to adjuster blocks for my axle nuts, though I assumed the nuts would set in OE blocks similar to OE right side, but nope. You think torque to spec with red threadlocker will do?

 

[tnarmyng]

Of course. Well the OE parts list shows 2 different part #s, one left and 1 right side.

And I've got a length of spacer I can cut to size, so no worries about filling the arm accurately.

I do need to adjuster blocks for my axle nuts, though I assumed the nuts would set in OE blocks similar to OE right side, but nope. You think torque to spec with red threadlocker will do?

It'd be just that

 

[tnarmyng]

I assumed the new axle would have come with nuts that sat in the OE adjuster blocks like the factory axle, but no.

 

[rubbersidedown]

I assumed the new axle would have come with nuts that sat in the OE adjuster blocks like the factory axle, but no.

Look at all that chewed up...yuk. o well,you cant have your axle sit on top of the adjuster block like that. it has to be in between the to ridges.
Do you need to pull it back all the way like that to have the chain adjusted properly?
Rubb.

 

[rubbersidedown]

What is under the nut? Is that a spacer? it looks like the nut will fit between the edges of the adjuster block and between the edges of the arm.There is not enough axle hanging out. You do not need whatever is under that nut. You should remove the axle and show us a picture of what you have. The axle,nut,spacers and washers. You do not need red locktite on that nut.The axle should not be pulled back all the way in the adjuster blocks. It leaves no room for adjustment now...and as the chain stretches.
Rubb.

 

[tnarmyng]

Look at all that chewed up...yuk. o well,you cant have your axle sit on top of the adjuster block like that. it has to be in between the to ridges.
Do you need to pull it back all the way like that to have the chain adjusted properly?
Rubb.

Yeah, sad day..

Yeah the axle came with those nuts and spacers. Chain hasn't been ran yet, but I got it with extra links.

That's left side, axle is all the way forward, not back in that pic. Dry setup to make sure I have the spacers as close as possible to right before I set it all up on the arm.

Look at all that chewed up...yuk. o well,you cant have your axle sit on top of the adjuster block like that. it has to be in between the to ridges.

Do you mean just how the axle was barely through the adjuster block? That was just to show you what it would look like set up with just a nut and spacer. Here you go.