? For The Stretched Arm Guy's

[Klutch556]

Double check your chain alignment and that your rear axle is torqued to spec and that the bolts against the axle blocks are tight as well.
my buddy’s bike had a odd sound comin from his like what you’re describing. His rear axle wasn’t tight enough and when he’d give it throttle it would pull the rear sprocket askew causing the chain to grind on the corners of the teeth but when he let off the throttle it would release the pressure and the sprocket would straighten up and the sound would disappear.

 

[tnarmyng]

"Tension strength" is kind of mis-leading,are you referring to chain adjustment or what chain to buy/use based on tensile strength. (the amount of pressure or force it takes to break a chain) Buy the strongest chain you can get. Easy.
I'm not sure there is a 100% correct scientific calculation in regards to chain adjustment (if that is your question) on stretched arms. It's not like consulting a factory manual that usually gives a setting of like 3/4 of an' inch of slack at the half way point between the 2 sprogs on the lower run. Hopefully a full on hard core 1/4 mile guy will have your answer.They hammer them hard all the time. I have a 4" over arm and just go by feel. Turbo'd motor,huge HP,no issues for 10 years. I could measure the slop in mine,give you an' idea of the required slack if you think that would help. IDK. How long is the arm in question?
Rubb.

Tensile strength req. for stretched. I have a unmarked (no logo) ~12-14"??, 240 swingarm that was installed when I bought my 07 used.

Chain and sprockets were eaten to poop. 190 wheel, so I put a new 190 tire. Sounds weird, but looks ok. Anyways, I got BMXR chain that shows up to 1100cc.. whoops. We'll see

I know to get the slack set right it will need to be tighter, but won't that just stretch it prematurely? And of course the previous owner rigged the bike from top to bottom. 2 months into it working full-time. Almost done.

Comes down to basically:

1. Any idea on naming this arm model??

2. Chain was riding swingarm prior and OE chain buffer won't fit. Roller or tensioner, or rigged like pic 2 ok?

And

3. I'm sticking with the chain I already bought regardless, BUT what does the community say about the 9,700 lbs tensile strength of the BMXR? Place your bets? Is it gonna hold up??

 

[rubbersidedown]

The arm looks like Roaring Toys. They use that box style,(wider at the corners) and that little flip at the end of the under bracing.

If you want to "rig it" like pic 1...maybe a stronger zap-strap.

A stock shock crushed all the way down eh,thats what yer gonna run...IDK.

The bet...what odd's are you offering?

Rubb.

 

[tnarmyng]

The arm looks like Roaring Toys. They use that box style,(wider at the corners) and that little flip at the end of the under bracing.

View attachment 1629299

If you want to "rig it" like pic 1...maybe a stronger zap-strap.

A stock shock crushed all the way down eh,thats what yer gonna run...IDK.

The bet...what odd's are you offering?

Rubb.

Thanks for the reply, man! Good eye! I'll give Roaring Toys a shout and see what they advise for a chain buffer. What are your thoughts on a chain tensioner wheel instead?

I plan on swapping to a Gen II r. shock, but I need to figure out how to level the bike. The front was too low and the levers hit the front cowl at full turn so I raised it up just as much as needed. The PO cut the lowering links in the rear so can't raise the back that way. Not sure how else to, but regardless gotta find some recommended measuring points to make sure front to rear is level.

Well, the odds of it holding up or a lot greater now than they were when I got it… check this crazy poop out!

Haven't exactly figured out how to mount torquebar to the swingarm yet, so in the garage it sits. Advice?

The PO's rear wheel spacer, vs the homemade version I used (ignore the length, it was cut to length later)

And last but DEFINITELY NOT LEAST, PO's "rear axle"..

The GEN 1 nickname death machine has a whole new meaning with this bike!

 

[tnarmyng]

Sorry OP, should have started my own thread..

 

[Mathewrussell52]

Sorry OP, should have started my own thread..

Most arms run something like this. It’s a block that works as a stop on the top of the arm.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Wow,somebody just wanted to ride eh...didn't really give a fug about anything. Rust every where...nasty.
For the rear suspension I would just get stock dog bones to level it back up. Yer Gen II shock would work but maybe consider a shock with a heavier spring. Are you going to ride this on the street?
The rear needs an' attachment point on the arm. Couple ways is qwik and easy (shown in blue) obviously not put on there,put on wherfe the wire is. Take a piece of flat bar and bend it around the arm so that the flat bar sandwiches the brake stay arm. Nice shoulder bolt thru to hold it. Bottom little sketch just shows the flat bar with holes drilled.
Or weld a tab directly to the arm.The green. The arm looks like it isn't in the prettiest shape any way,weld away.

Yer wheel spacer looks OK,it just needs the right I.D. and O.D. of course.Cant tell from the pic but yer tubing wall looks a little thin. Fast and easy for the real is one of the suppliers of arms.If they dont sell them,they know who does. I would look to Roaring Toyz again (for a new axle) as the sell 240 kits complete with a wheel. Im sure they have an' axle for ya. I think you said it was a 240 arm.
I'm hoping somebody will chime in with better rear suspension advice as the arm yer using is long. I run a 4" over and air-ride suspension with on board compressor for adjustabilty so I'm not an' expert at all on rear suspension.
She's been neglected...but you'll have her fine again.
Rubb.

 

[tnarmyng]

Most arms run something like this. It’s a block that works as a stop on the top of the arm.

View attachment 1629319

 

[tnarmyng]

Most arms run something like this. It’s a block that works as a stop on the top of the arm.

View attachment 1629319

Hard to tell the quality isn't great and it seems pretty dark. Is this what you're talking about? I was trying to get a picture of one mounted from a seller on eBay but I haven't had any luck.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Hard to tell the quality isn't great and it seems pretty dark. Is this what you're talking about? I was trying to get a picture of one mounted from a seller on eBay but I haven't had any luck.

View attachment 1629371

I have no idea what piece of krap that guy is trying to sell,but dont buy it. Get something that looks like one of these,different ones to mount on top or bottom.You dont have to go hi-priced,these are just ideas. You put the axle thru them...I have no idea how that other POS attaches...glue? Sticky tape?

Rubb.

 

[tnarmyng]

I have no idea what piece of krap that guy is trying to sell,but dont buy it. Get something that looks like one of these,different ones to mount on top or bottom.You dont have to go hi-priced,these are just ideas. You put the axle thru them...I have no idea how that other POS attaches...glue? Sticky tape?

View attachment 1629375

View attachment 1629373

View attachment 1629374

View attachment 1629372

Rubb.

I have one like your pic 4 on it now. The axle is the only mount point to aside from the 2 caliper bolt holes, but the torquebar is still necessary with that, right?

 

[tnarmyng]

Wow,somebody just wanted to ride eh...didn't really give a fug about anything. Rust every where...nasty.
For the rear suspension I would just get stock dog bones to level it back up. Yer Gen II shock would work but maybe consider a shock with a heavier spring. Are you going to ride this on the street?
The rear needs an' attachment point on the arm. Couple ways is qwik and easy (shown in blue) obviously not put on there,put on wherfe the wire is. Take a piece of flat bar and bend it around the arm so that the flat bar sandwiches the brake stay arm. Nice shoulder bolt thru to hold it. Bottom little sketch just shows the flat bar with holes drilled.
Or weld a tab directly to the arm.The green. The arm looks like it isn't in the prettiest shape any way,weld away.

View attachment 1629321

Yer wheel spacer looks OK,it just needs the right I.D. and O.D. of course.Cant tell from the pic but yer tubing wall looks a little thin. Fast and easy for the real is one of the suppliers of arms.If they dont sell them,they know who does. I would look to Roaring Toyz again (for a new axle) as the sell 240 kits complete with a wheel. Im sure they have an' axle for ya. I think you said it was a 240 arm.
I'm hoping somebody will chime in with better rear suspension advice as the arm yer using is long. I run a 4" over and air-ride suspension with on board compressor for adjustabilty so I'm not an' expert at all on rear suspension.
She's been neglected...but you'll have her fine again.
Rubb.

Rubb, those pics weren't even the worst of what I've found on this bike! I'm glad the harness was fkd, bc I'd have definitely rode it, and might not have made it back to my garage.

I got my chrome moly axle from tracdynamics. "Shipping Friday" turned into 3 1/2 more weeks before I received it. Smh

I checked Roaring, but I don't see mine anywhere on their site or photos from google search. They do have a chain slider I need, but weeeeeks to ship.. psh. I'll look around.

As far as the torquebar, I'll try to go with your "blue"print.. I don't think the arm isn't ugly enough for me to weld on. Gotta remember it's new to me lol.

The wheel spacer I.D. is right on the money.. the O.D., nope. I basically used what I could find, really. I should have hit the forum then to get some tips. Mines "unique" bc it's a 190 wheel on a 240 arm. I had a hard time finding the I.D. alone, and the correct length.. *faget about it*

 

[tnarmyng]

I have no idea what piece of krap that guy is trying to sell,but dont buy it. Get something that looks like one of these,different ones to mount on top or bottom.You dont have to go hi-priced,these are just ideas. You put the axle thru them...I have no idea how that other POS attaches...glue? Sticky tape?

View attachment 1629375

View attachment 1629373

View attachment 1629374

View attachment 1629372

Rubb.

Are they just running the last one without a torquebar?

 

[rubbersidedown]

A bar is necessary on some types,but not all.
The pic 4...they probably just took a pick for something else.
That POS from ebay looks like it goes on like this...

I guess it gets bolted or welded to the swingarm,I just dont know anything about those type.
I run a 330 rear and my caliper doesn't use a traditional brake stay...

Any spacers that you build the most important this is is that the chain lines up perfectly. Stretched arms put extra stress on a chain. Make sure yer set-up is true. I would not trust anything the PO (POS) has done. I use a laser pointer to line up my chain.
Rubb.

 

[tnarmyng]

A bar is necessary on some types,but not all.
The pic 4...they probably just took a pick for something else.
That POS from ebay looks like it goes on like this...

View attachment 1629388

I guess it gets bolted or welded to the swingarm,I just dont know anything about those type.
I run a 330 rear and my caliper doesn't use a traditional brake stay...

View attachment 1629389

Any spacers that you build the most important this is is that the chain lines up perfectly. Stretched arms put extra stress on a chain. Make sure yer set-up is true. I would not trust anything the PO (POS) has done. I use a laser pointer to line up my chain.
Rubb.

I used a fork oil checker tube with a chain alignment setup, plus a laser temp gun to check alignment. Sounds strange, but it should be true I'll post pics of it shortly.

Post in thread 'Extended Swing Arm - Need Assistance' Extended Swing Arm - Need Assistance | General Bike Related Topics

^ Also that rear brake mount I posted looks ghetto. Granted, but I found it included in a lot of kits

I ended up going with this one, though. Much cleaner and seems more stable, also.

Only 10 bones more than the plain aluminum block that looks like shadetree Joe cut it on the fly. AND it was local, no 3 week shipping from Chine!

 

[Mathewrussell52]

Most arms run something like this. It’s a block that works as a stop on the top of the arm.

View attachment 1629319

 

[tnarmyng]

View attachment 1629614

I ended up going with the black one. So far a $10 cheap Dremel from harbor freight with a round diamond tip and six minutes..

Saved 40 bucks there

 

[tnarmyng]

Found issue #742

Rear brake bleeder screw was tack welded to caliper..

Tried to tap it to an M8 x 1.25 but the tap ate itself up smh

Headed for helicoil kit from a mechanic friend. Auto parts stores wanted $42 plus tax!

 

[rubbersidedown]

Well you now have bits of metal inside you caliper,you may want to order up a rebuild kit,IDK. Maybe a member who has switched to a Brembo has a free or cheap one. You could ask in "Wanted"
Rubb.

 

[tnarmyng]

@RedBull I've got some room between my dust seal and the right wheel spacer neck.

Well you now have bits of metal inside you caliper,you may want to order up a rebuild kit,IDK. Maybe a member who has switched to a Brembo has a free or cheap one. You could ask in "Wanted"
Rubb.

I kept the caliper lower than the master cylinder always, and was just going to bleed it and slam the rear brake pedal a few times to blow anything out.

Can you tell me if these spacers look seated right to you? Can't seem to get them flush, but 99% sure wheel bearings were completely pressed in.