Fixed my First to Second shift problem.

mike1180

Banned
I have helped my shifting from first to second.
In experimenting, I:
1. Took off the rubber off of the shift lever ( I have determined that that was part of the problem)
2. Found a die that was close enough to put a thread onto the shaft ( you can do metric or British)
( PS: You can always reverse this procedure and put the rubber back on over the now threaded shaft)
3. Found a piece of aluminum round stock that was the same diameter as the rubber on the original shaft.
4. Cut a piece of this stock to be about 1 ½ inches longer than the original shaft.
5. Drilled and tapped this piece of aluminum stock with the same size treads as in #2
6. A bit of loc-tite and screwed the stock onto the treaded shaft

And voila, a 1 ½ inch longer shift lever without needed aluminum welding, and which can be turned back to stock.

Now"¦ I seem to be able to shift with no problems at all. Bang it into second, all through the powerband and no missed shifts??
Go figure"¦ trying to pigeon toe shift that short a$$ rubber shifter was all of the problems (for me).
What a simple fix and what a joy to shift now!
Natural foot position, good purchase on the shift linkage and all the problems are gone!!
Took me a while to stop hunching my whole foot into that short shifter pattern, but now it is as natural as apple pie!
 
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I am going to have friggin nightmares from that thing..
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(Right click, save as)
 
Here's what I did to solve my problem when I put the Buell pegs on:

Excerpt from a different post of mine:

I personally like my shifter really low so I dont have to click, I click kinda forward. Makes for easier shifting with my ankle. No, theres nothing wrong with my ankle, I;ve just grown accustomed to a particular angle. When I did the Buell peg mod (thanks GSX1300R-T) I found that there wasn't enough room between the shifter and my kickstand. This is one of the reasons you need to adjust the shift lever after the mod. So once I got the shifter adjusted, I just wasnt happy because I literally was pulling my whole leg up to shift up, probably cause my anke just dont rotate that far...could be the long legs. So I adjusted the shifter back down. The next ride, actually trying to pull out of the driveway revealed that the now lower shifer was so close to the kickstand that I couldnt get my foot under it, not enough for a good positive feel. Yeah, I checked it first...but the stupid kickstand was DOWN when I checked it. LOL Anyway, I came up with this mod to compliment the Buell peg mod for those that like a lower shifter peg.

I went to Home Depot and bought this for:

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Cut it off to 2.5" long.

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File one end to provide a slight taper to allow for bunching of the rubber on the peg.

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Spray a little silicon or WD on the inside end that was filed...just a little, then jam it on the peg.

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All done:

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Sure it's kinda plain. But consider this, it's plastic and in a lean will hopefully grind down before you go down. Although I have to admit, I dont think I'll ever lean that far...being stretched and lowered. If you are worried about it hitting, then you can cut yours a little shorter. Just start with 2.5" and put it on the bike. Then carefully lean the bike over to the point where it will touch and cut it down from there. You could even get fancy and cut it at an angle...haha....hey wait a sec, I'm gonna go cut mine at an angle now.

This is a great cheap mod to compliment the Buell Peg mod if you like the lower shifter like I do. The key is finding some plastic tubing, look in the electrical conduit section. The ID of this tubing was .600" Any smaller and it wont fit over the rubber, any bigger and it wont stay on.
 
Nice piece of engineering, either way, guys......I'm a tap and die guy myself.....if it can be restored, "I do it !!!"
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Mui excellente' Senor !!!!
 
The stock for the shaft is 5/8 inch round aluminum.
The tap and die are M8 X 10 (like I said you could use a British thread too).
You can make it whatever length you want. My overall length for me was 2 1/2 inches.
I got fancy and made my hole in the round stock a little offset from center so it has a little up and down adjustment when you thread it on (the loc-tite holds it when you get to where you want)
(Make sure you don't use permanent loc-tite, just in case someone wants you to take it off for a picture LOL)

Is a small lip on the shifter shaft that holds the rubber on that must be cut off first, so the die will go on.
If you were to go back to a stock setup, you would have to contact cement the rubber back on, as this lip will be gone.
Also as you screw it on, you could drill out the end on the rod a little so it can screw up to the end of the shifter shaft real tight. You can't get the die right to the end of the shaft, so there are no threads there, so drill out about ¼ inch of threads from the shaft your are mounting and it screws on tight ( looks better too)

Oh, you don't have to take the shifter off to do this. Do it right on the bike. Aluminum is soft and will cut threads real easy so do it while it is on the bike!

When I put my Buell pegs on I had the same problem with foot interference with the kickstand when shifting. This mod also fixes that, as your foot is moved out straighter, away from the stand.

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sorry I cheated... $19 from Ebay.. seems to be a common issue with the buell peg mod..

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I looked at that too.
I really like that it folds back, but it is still too short.
Once I used this longer one, the ease of shifting and natural foot position, really helped smooth out the shifting "inconsistencies" esp 1st to 2nd.
Seems to give more leverage to the shift?
I wouldn't have thought it would make that much difference, but for me it did.
 
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