RSR direct shift air cylinder installation

ItsDooomz

ItsDooomz

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I bought the Ryan Schnitz Racing RSR air shifter kit https://store.schnitzracing.com/rsr-air-shifter-kit-suzuki-gsx1300r-hayabusa-99-18/ and installed the direct shift air cylinder this weekend. It's a trick piece. Mounting the solenoid directly to the shift cylinder is the way to go and this piece is especially nice with its billet CNC anodized aluminum housing. I went with the traditional engine bolt mount and used the DME Racing top mount https://dmeracing.com/product/suzuki-hayabusa-shifter-top-mount/.

Installation was simple and took about 30 minutes. The hole in the top of the direct shift air cylinder was too small and required drilling to accommodate the DME mount. The clevis on the bottom of the shifter was also to narrow for the OEM shift lever. I took a 80 grit flap wheel to the shift lever and it cleaned It right up. I did it on the bike without removing the shift lever.
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Wow, that's not a cheap date. Does it include a source for compressed air or C02 or do you have to provide that separate?

I've had good luck with the Dynotune kit on the Gen-2. The nice thing about Gen-2 is the air shifter can be controlled through the ECU and you don't even need a special harness. The ignition kill and fuel cut are handled by the ECU so there is no need for a kill box. It's interesting that the clevis was tight on the RSR kit as the ones in the Dynotune kits are also. The Cycle-Tec clevis was made correctly but they appeared to be custom.
 
Dennis said:
Does it include a source for compressed air or C02 or do you have to provide that separate?
Click to expand...

The kit doesn't come with an air supply solution, gotta come up with that on your own. This is really a sore spot for me. Not once but twice I've qualified top 5 and lost 1st round due to air supply issues. When you drag your junk 900 miles 1 way, qualify #2 and lose in the 1st round with a .009 light (.062 in the other lane) cause your poop won't shift due to an empty bottle, ya get a little spicy. I've gone deep down the rabbit hole with the air supply dilemma. I have several different solutions I'm currently testing including high pressure air and disposable CO2. I'll post a thread on that topic when I'm done playing.

Dennis said:
... nice thing about Gen-2 is the air shifter can be controlled through the ECU and you don't even need a special harness. The ignition kill and fuel cut are handled by the ECU so there is no need for a kill box.
Click to expand...

Initially I was going down that road and I even bought the Boost by Smith launch light/shift light/auto shift harness (now for sale). That is a great solution but I'm going to be doing a lot of index racing. I'll be tuning with timing and shift point to run the number and I really didn't want to have to adjust auto shift settings in the ECU between rounds. It will be much eaiser to make those adjustments with the RSR air shift module in the tail.
 
I've used C02, onboard compressor, HPA and back to C02. I don't see the need for disposable. I have a dozen bottles between my buddy and I and fill them myself. My philosophy is use the best fittings (I prefer brass ferrule connections on plastic line and braided line where possible.) and regulator, and put new bottles on before a race that matters. I have a gauge and I try to check it before every pass. If I have 140 psi I know I can make the pass even if the bottle were turned off or was running out. Possibly pressurizing the swingarm before each pass is a reliable method but I've never done that. Eliminates the need for the regulator and pressure source.

The Boost by Smith auto-shift / light combo makes ECU flashing not needed for adjusting shift points. Your setup is likely much easier to use though. How are you adjusting timing if you don't flash? Power Commander?
 
Dennis said:
The Boost by Smith auto-shift / light combo makes ECU flashing not needed for adjusting shift points. Your setup is likely much easier to use though. How are you adjusting timing if you don't flash? Power Commander?
Click to expand...

I really like the Boost by Smith setup, I had it on one of my Gen 1's and it was great. The RSR air shift module has an LCD display I can put under the hump for easy adjustments and allows independent poop point per gear. This will allow me to take 1st deep, short shift 2 and 3 and let it go all the way out in 4th for max mph and not require an additional shift into 5th.

I need to work on a solution for timing. I wish the MSD SB6 was still available/supported. Ideally, I like to pull timing in 1st gear only on a timer with a ramp. Sort of mimicking a throttle stop again to maximize MPH. What's the best thing out there short of a standalone ECU?
 
I don't know of a good solution for timing but I haven't looked. I use the ECU but I use the secondary throttles and MS1 to adjust for an index. It still means flashing but once you are close you can adjust shift rpm's to get where you need to be. Flip the switch after the index race and it's back to normal.

Adjusting gear shift rpms individually would be nice, especially on nitrous where I'm running out of gear in the 1/4 and have to shut off the autoshift once in high gear.
 
I have busa engine in a 3 Wheeler . ..I have yet to the thing on the road because I can't get the shifter setup to work. Not enough tension on the wire and a metal bar directly to the shifter isn't going to work.
I am now looking to use an air shifter. Obviously you can shift both up and down.... right? In the setup i have.... I have no access to the shifter when I am sitting in the "cab" of the 3 wheeler.....is getting the engine in neutral easy?

Sorry if this is a dumb question... never worked with air shifters and it seems like all the examples I see are always shifting up through the gears but never down.... I am hoping to be able to use an air shifter vs. and electronic shifter (like from Pingel) seeing that they are more than 1/2 of what the Pingel electric shifter is....

Thanks for the help!
Todd
 
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expensive but you don't have to worry about the refill. didn't go that way either. air tank in swingarm. I go 2 passes on 1/8 mile at 110 p.s.i. no onboard compressor. not the easiest but it works for me. hey, I thought you could get 100+ passes out of co2???????????????
 
ItsDooomz said:
Here's what I'm testing currently. It's a 12 gram C02 system. The cartridges are 25 cents a piece and I can get 30-40 shifts per cartridge. Cheap, dependable, no refill drama and it's small. You can literally change a cartridge in under 5 seconds.

View attachment 1582920
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Thats super smart! Mind sharing the set up and since this was so long ago, have you made any other improvements? Im going down the road of buying and RSR air shifter, I don't know which shifter to buy, I want the DME aluminum shifter. Any suggestions?? Thanks
 
Bankrupt said:
Thats super smart! Mind sharing the set up and since this was so long ago, have you made any other improvements? Im going down the road of buying and RSR air shifter, I don't know which shifter to buy, I want the DME aluminum shifter. Any suggestions?? Thanks
Click to expand...
I abandoned the disposable CO2 setup. It was nice but the pin that punctures the metal disc on top of the cartridge would only punch two or three CO2 cartridges before wearing out. I went to a high pressure air setup using a 13 cubic inch bottle and 3,000 psi. I love the RSR direct air cylinder and the shift module. I'm using DMEs shifter as well. Not sure if it would work very well for a street bike, its designed for drag racing applications. My bike's totally disassembled now for the phase three build, won't be using the RSR air shift module anymore as I'm using a FuelTech standalone.

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20201108_202527.jpg
 
ItsDooomz said:
I abandoned the disposable CO2 setup. It was nice but the pin that punctures the metal disc on top of the cartridge would only punch two or three CO2 cartridges before wearing out. I went to a high pressure air setup using a 13 cubic inch bottle and 3,000 psi. I love the RSR direct air cylinder and the shift module. I'm using DMEs shifter as well. Not sure if it would work very well for a street bike, its designed for drag racing applications. My bike's totally disassembled now for the phase three build, won't be using the RSR air shift module anymore as I'm using a FuelTech standalone.

View attachment 1629359

View attachment 1629360
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Awesome!! Yes this is the exact set up I'm going for. Dme shifter like that one, with 7oz C02 bottle w regulator. I dont street ride, building it up and love to drag race. That's where my attention is. I will be ordering the kit here soon if all is well with my transmission. We shall see ! Awesome build btw. What's it running?
 
It's never been on a dyno. It probably makes 180 hp in good air. Everybody gets hung up on dyno sheets but track performance tells all. She's completely in pieces now, Version 3.0 coming soon. I might share the build if there's any interest.
 
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