First track day advice?

I would think the stock rear spring that is far to stiff would not bounce you out of the saddle .
What are you rear shock clicks out from seated on comp / rebound ?
Had them both set at 6 out per thre Dave moss video as a starting point since the guy in there video is close to the same size as me.
 
Who are you riding with? I coach for STT.

Gawd, where do I start:

- Get ready to not have any money - because trackdays are ADDICTIVE
- Look up the trackday provider's website and look at their site for trackday prep, and bike prep. Prep your bike according to their instructions and you won't waste a bunch of time at tech getting your bike right. Same for gear.
- Tires. Tires are expendable items, just like gas, oil and brake pads. Make sure you have a good set of tires on. Tires are much cheaper than bike, gear or body parts. The faster you go, the more important this will become. Oh, and street pressures and track pressures ARE NOT THE SAME. 18 pounds is WAY TOO LOW for street tires.
- PATIENCE GRASSHOPPER. Take baby steps, listen to the instruction and your coaches.
- Have someplace to rest, cool off, get a drink, etc.
- if you are riding your Busa, just remember, you may look like a hero down the front straight, but if you are with the 600's at their brake marker, you have a problem. A lot of riders know how to pin the gas, but many have no idea how their bikes hard brake.
- If there is a suspension guy there, have him set the bike for your weight...it makes a big difference.
- Look where you want to go.
- If you are riding at 100% of your ability, you can't have fun. Don't outride your skillz.
- If you want help, ask a COACH; they are there for YOU.

GOOD LUCK!
@skydivr and I don't agree on anything except this. He knows his way around a track and if you can get his coaching you will be a better rider for it!
 
Thats stiff on OEM rear shock I think there is 14 to 20 clicks but cant remember now as mine has been gone for years . Penske has like 30 clicks . Try backing compression off 2 to 3 clicks , and ride same road
I started doing that today and backed off my compression and rebound both a little and feel it's a little better, I also softened the front a little more as it was a little too stiff as well but since Michigan has probably the worst roads in the country I don't think I'll ever be completely able to get it right no matter what I upgrade. But I appreciate the help as always sir :thumbsup:
 
Ok so I watched the short clip redbull posted and seeing as im close to the same size of the guy I decided to pay the money on Dave's website to get thre full video. I used his adjustments and of course with the horrible road conditions in Michigan and the fact the settings he gave were for some track riding as well I feel my suspension may be too stiff in the rear as it seems to shoot me off the seat when going over a large bump. Any ideas what to adjust Bryan because add I've said before I get myself more confused the more I try to understand it. And @Blacksmith don't mean ti Jack your thread but if you do end up making it to your track day I believe I have the settings Dave Moss gave the guy in that video red posted wrote down that'd id be willing to share with you at least as a starting point for you.
I'd love to have those measurements if you don't mind
 
I'm 220ish without gear. My busa suspension has always felt good as set from the dealership so I never bothered with it. For my ZX-14 I just followed the Dave Moss video. I followed his recommended sag settings and everything is fine with that bike ever since.

You'd need two other people besides yourself to measure sag. I adjusted my suspension by myself using stands and I have a tutorial if you're interested in trying it, let me know I'll post a link.
 
...but since Michigan has probably the worst roads in the country I don't think I'll ever be completely able to get it right no matter what I upgrade.

Valving on sport bikes tends to be too small, which can outright prevent the suspension from extending and contracting at a rate to match the input from a nasty road bump or dip. Once you identify your ideal settings, if the suspension is still too hard or soft, note that the valves you will get with your proposed future upgrade will make a large improvement. (The builder/seller has to take your riding habits and roads into consideration to make it work right.) Our roads are terrible here. My VFR could almost throw me in the air on the bumps. A rebuild by a great shop created a Caddy-like feel while keeping the tires planted. The suspension can do the job well, it just has to be designed to do such.
 
Thats stiff on OEM rear shock I think there is 14 to 20 clicks but cant remember now as mine has been gone for years .

@c10 I have been wanting to know the adjustment range of my stock suspension. Is turning full-out on compression and rebound harmless? I do not want to break something I know nothing about (like I did when disassembling all of my toys as a kid.)
 
@c10 I have been wanting to know the adjustment range of my stock suspension. Is turning full-out on compression and rebound harmless? I do not want to break something I know nothing about (like I did when disassembling all of my toys as a kid.)
Turning them full out will make for very low damping in both directions . Bike will feel like its constantly in motion with no damping . If no one is avaible to assist on set up then I would use the factory settings , and adjust 1 or two clicks in either direction from there till you achieve a ride you are satisfied with . Use same road at same speed , and line .
 
I want to know how many clicks total are available. Is it safe to turn them all the way out for the purpose of counting the clicks?
 
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You can indeed. For either all the way out or in, never leave it at the hard stop. Turn it back untill you feel the first click, I call that #1. Or if doing pre-load on the front, once you hit the hard stop in either direction, back it off or in by 1/4 turn - then start counting.
When I start, I write down from where the settings currently are to either full out or full in. Then I have a return reference point. Once all the way out or in, then you can do a full range count to see how many you have avaialable. Then can return it to what you wrote down.
 
You wanna ride a Busa fast?
Well, this will give you an idea of what the Hayabusa is really capable of.

At work in the office alone again and decided to watch it again..
This time i paid attention to the other riders.
Amazing how many of them are hanging off the bike all crossed up with body facing away from the corner, with their torso all twisted up.. Never noticed before
 
At work in the office alone again and decided to watch it again..
This time i paid attention to the other riders.
Amazing how many of them are hanging off the bike all crossed up with body facing away from the corner, with their torso all twisted up.. Never noticed before
I must have missed most of this thread, I missed Kiwi's post altogether...

Great video and a great rider who posts here once in a while...If I could ride even half as good, I'd be happy.
 
You can indeed. For either all the way out or in, never leave it at the hard stop.

Thank you very much. I had it in my mind that taking one of the adjustments all the way out would cause a problem. Perhaps I am vaguely remembering old stories of someone forcing an adjustment screw and shearing it, or something like that.
 
I always revel in the video at how fast this bike gets to top speed...

Also those other riders he gains and passes must be thinking "where the heck did this guy come from?"
 
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