Fairing removal for oil change.

2

2013hayabusabehre91

Registered
I’m about to just take it to a dealer. I’ve been out here for over an hour trying to get this faring off and I can’t. I took all 10 fasteners out the thing is still bolted on. I don’t understand. Little foam piece fell off don’t even know where it came from

image.jpg
 
Zee said:
www.hayabusa.org

How To Video - Gen2 Fairing Removal. | Videos

After the nightmare that was my first fairing removal I found this video that might help with others doing it. Wish I had found it first off ... Suzuki should have named the fairing design as 'Pandoras box' as its as hard to open. Anyway this is it:
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
Click to expand...
This is what I’m doing starting from the bottom pulling and nothings happening. I’m pulling so damn hard I feel like I’m bout to break something or rip it off and it still won’t pop out.
 
2013hayabusabehre91 said:
I bought a new crush washer for the drain bolt but the thing isn’t coming off it’s like welded to the bolt
Click to expand...

There's a video for that. You're gonna used something sharp to pry up the washer off the bolt (optional, but worked for me), then use something like a pair of dikes to cut into the stuck washer. You'll see how-to in the video


Also:
You can lube your fairing connect points to make both re-install and the next pull-off easier. I use a silicone spray, sprayed onto a rag, then applied to the fairing's leading edge you have circled in red on your pic. And lubing up those rubber insert points helps, too. But do it neatly, cuz that bike looks beautiful!

Also:
If I remember, there are three rubber inserts on each side fairing. Two of them pop in horizontally, but the top one actually seats in vertically. I've found it easier to pop that one up and off first before I tackle the other two. If you try to pull that one horizontally, it risks breakage somewhere.

Hope this helps!
 
2013hayabusabehre91 said:
one spot that I can’t get I circled it in red
Click to expand...
I just wiggle that up and down and pull backward and down. Same if you separate the inner fairings from the side pieces. Take out the fasteners ad wiggle until it lets go. It is a beotch to get the side fairing separated from that point on the top cowl. Also the ram air covers are tricky to get to mate up. The belly pan is not easy....they all suck!

Just be careful. I've done it at least 20 times and it's still quite a task. Be careful and don't force anything.

2013hayabusabehre91 said:
I bought a new crush washer for the drain bolt but the thing isn’t coming off it’s like welded to the bolt
Click to expand...

I had that happen on a drain plug. I used a chisel to carefully split it and I pried it apart with a screwdriver. I wouldn't thread it off if it is tight. If that is an OEM crush washer, it's pretty delicate but it might be a lot stiffer if it's completely flattened.

I suspect your drain plug was either overtorqued or the washer was used more than once. Normal torque should not cause the washer to expand onto the threads like that. I use 12 ft lbs and I have used the same washer repeatedly because those things are so hard to come by at a shop. I just reused the one I've had for at least the last 3 oil changes and it came right off. It looks like it did seep a bit under the oil pan but not enough that the oil level went down all summer. I reused it again because it's all I have. Don't overtorque. Do use a new crush washer if you can find one! :laugh: I guess a solid aluminum one like Kawasaki is also exceptable for use on the busa.
 
Here are the tutorials I use when removing fairings and when I only do it once a year, you bet it's required reading.


FAIRINGS
Gen2 Hayabusa Fairing Tutorial Videos (w/pics) | Gen II Busa Information

NOSE (another nightmare) pdf on this thread.
Nose fairing removal | Maintenance and Do-It-Yourself

Here is my top cowl removal tutorial and it's a copy of the pdf with a few extra photos and steps edited in by me. I think it's pretty complete.

www.hayabusa.org

Gen 2 Upper Fairing Removal | Maintenance and Do-It-Yourself

The following tutorial was created by Djxtrordinaire. I have it downloaded to my computer but there is no thread on the forum dedicated to Gen 2 Body Cowling removal. I hope Djxtrordinaire will not mind me posting it as a thread or the few changes in the text and photos that I took the liberty...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
 
Mythos said:
I just wiggle that up and down and pull backward and down. Same if you separate the inner fairings from the side pieces. Take out the fasteners ad wiggle until it lets go. It is a beotch to get the side fairing separated from that point on the top cowl. Also the ram air covers are tricky to get to mate up. The belly pan is not easy....they all suck!

Just be careful. I've done it at least 20 times and it's still quite a task. Be careful and don't force anything.



I had that happen on a drain plug. I used a chisel to carefully split it and I pried it apart with a screwdriver. I wouldn't thread it off if it is tight. If that is an OEM crush washer, it's pretty delicate but it might be a lot stiffer if it's completely flattened.

I suspect your drain plug was either overtorqued or the washer was used more than once. Normal torque should not cause the washer to expand onto the threads like that. I use 12 ft lbs and I have used the same washer repeatedly because those things are so hard to come by at a shop. I just reused the one I've had for at least the last 3 oil changes and it came right off. It looks like it did seep a bit under the oil pan but not enough that the oil level went down all summer. I reused it again because it's all I have. Don't overtorque. Do use a new crush washer if you can find one! :laugh: I guess a solid aluminum one like Kawasaki is also exceptable for use on the busa.
Click to expand...
I used vice grips to grab the washer and a 17 ratchet to unscrew it. It worked and I bought a new one. I’m reading people put a full 4 quarts
 
Not sure if it has been said before - but you do not need to remove any fairings if you only do the oil without the filter. With filter see above from @busafan08

Also - Most of us do every 2 oil changes - 1 filter change! Hope that helps!
 
2013hayabusabehre91 said:
I’m reading people put a full 4 quarts.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's about that with a new filter. Pour 3.5 qts, then use the site glass to get it close. Also, you might want to run the engine, wait maybe 10, then take a second reading off the site glass. Best to have your final level between the marks on the glass, favoring the upper mark. Just remember to let the oil settle in between reading and running - 10 mins usually works.

I will take this opportunity to quote @Mr Brown: "Some oil is better than no oil" Thank you, Mr Brown
 
HayaWakened said:
Yeah, it's about that with a new filter. Pour 3.5 qts, then use the site glass to get it close. Also, you might want to run the engine, wait maybe 10, then take a second reading off the site glass. Best to have your final level between the marks on the glass, favoring the upper mark. Just remember to let the oil settle in between reading and running - 10 mins usually works.

I will take this opportunity to quote @Mr Brown: "Some oil is better than no oil" Thank you, Mr Brown
Click to expand...
Drain bolt torque? It doesn’t say in the manual. It says 14.5 for the oil filter though. My Kawasaki drain bolt is 20ftlbs so I did 15 on the busa to be safe
 
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