Engine Break in

[Howabusa]

If this has been well covered someway on the board I can't find it. I'm getting my new'06 busa soon & i'm wondering how to break it in. I've read the Moto Man's method and it seems to make sense. What to you guys think is the best way to break it in? I'm wondering what the manual says should be done at the 600 mile service? Do you just change the oil and filter and give the bike a good looking over or are you supposed to check valve clearances. Will i void the warranty if I don't have the dealer do the first service? Thanks in advance for everyones input on this. Oh,  BTW This a Great Site!

 

[justtight]

I've had my 06 for about a week now. I will be taking my bike in @ 600mi to get serviced. I'm over half-way there

 

[thepushercg]

around 600/700 i changed oil , i check everthing myself instead of taking to the dealer. i think breaking it in is up to you, some ride it like it was stolen from day one. some baby it and do not go over 7000 rpm for about a thousand miles or so.
there is on evidence that either method hurts the bike from what i have read.

 

[NightCrawler]

(Howabusa @ Jan. 10 2007,05:42) If this has been well covered someway on the board I can't find it. I'm getting my new'06 busa soon & i'm wondering how to break it in. I've read the Moto Man's method and it seems to make sense. What to you guys think is the best way to break it in?

Some will say the same as you ... Moto Man's way makes sense, others will say Suzuki has done enough research on their own bike to know more than us (and Moto Man for that matter). But as mentioned above I've yet to see evidence of either hurting the bike.

I'm wondering what the manual says should be done at the 600 mile service? Do you just change the oil and filter and give the bike a good looking over or are you supposed to check valve clearances. Will i void the warranty if I don't have the dealer do the first service?[/Quote]
From my understanding you can do the servicing on your own but should keep all receipts in order to avoid voiding your warranty. If you plan on letting the dealer do it, I suggest you call around. The dealer closest to me charges $275 for the servicing of bikes, while another located 50 miles away charges $125. The difference is the local one charges 3 hours of labor for the bike to cool off at $75 per hour. That's $225 I'm paying them in order for them to place the bike in a corner for 2 1/2 hours and actually work on it for 30 minutes.
The other dealer is located at the entrance to the Florida Keys so not only do I pay half the price of my local dealer, but I get a beautiful ride out of it as well.

Thanks in advance for everyones input on this.[/Quote]
Yer welcome

.

Oh,  BTW This a Great Site!

[/Quote]
As if we didn't know ....

 

[GSXcite]

A thousand miles goes quick, why chance hurting something by getting on it hard now? It will help the valvetrain if you very the RPMs though. Helps the cam if you do not run at a steady rpm for a long period of time. Be sure to keep an eye on your chain, it will loosen up with just a few hundred miles.

 

[Over_Easy]

I got up ~8+k on/off first 100 miles or so then letting the engine braking slow the bike down per motoman, then changed the oil at 100 (OE oil), 600 (OE oil), 2500 (Mobil MX4 synthetic). No problems. I'm a believer in the ride it like you stole it method for break-in. Going on 4000 miles now.

 

[justtight]

Ok now I'm more confused than ever

 

[Devil Dog]

I did the factory break in.....I changed my own oil and kept the rcpts for the puchase of the filter and oil.

 

[Don Hardcastle]

When I have Guinevere "augmented" later this year, (1363/12.1:1, hd valve springs, new exhaust cam, md clutch springs, new bearings, undercut and shot peen the tranny) I am going to have it broken in on the dyno before I ever pick it up. I broke my first busa in per the manual, and the this one was broken in per the manual, but I have done some research and I believe the MotoMan method is for me. The mechanic/tuner that is doing my work breaks them in like that and believes you get more power so for what I am paying him, it is good enough for me.

Don

 

[Over_Easy]

(justtight @ Jan. 10 2007,19:55) Ok now I'm more confused than ever

About what?

You can go to motoman's break-in study and read for yourself...it's very enlightening.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[Over_Easy]

(USN05LE @ Jan. 10 2007,20:23) When I have Guinevere "augmented" later this year, (1363/12.1:1, hd valve springs, new exhaust cam, md clutch springs, new bearings, undercut and shot peen the tranny) I am going to have it broken in on the dyno before I ever pick it up. I broke my first busa in per the manual, and the this one was broken in per the manual, but I have done some research and I believe the MotoMan method is for me. The mechanic/tuner that is doing my work breaks them in like that and believes you get more power so for what I am paying him, it is good enough for me.

Don

Don,

Motoman method calls for engine braking being very important as part of the process. Meaning a dyno is not IDEAL for this.

In short, riding on a dyno does not cause the same pressure/stress on the engine as real world acceleration and engine braking, but he says it can be done.


NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.

 

[Don Hardcastle]

(Over_Easy @ Jan. 10 2007,22:29)

(USN05LE @ Jan. 10 2007,20:23) When I have Guinevere "augmented" later this year, (1363/12.1:1, hd valve springs, new exhaust cam, md clutch springs, new bearings, undercut and shot peen the tranny) I am going to have it broken in on the dyno before I ever pick it up. I broke my first busa in per the manual, and the this one was broken in per the manual, but I have done some research and I believe the MotoMan method is for me. The mechanic/tuner that is doing my work breaks them in like that and believes you get more power so for what I am paying him, it is good enough for me.

Don

Don,

Motoman method calls for engine braking being very important as part of the process. Meaning a dyno is not IDEAL for this.

In short, riding on a dyno does not cause the same pressure/stress on the engine as real world acceleration and engine braking, but he says it can be done.

NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.

I am with you on this 100%. The guy that is doing my work understands this and breaks all his bikes in on the dyno and owns a highly regarded shop. He has been vouched for by several senior members here on the board. He is saying we should see mid 190s to maybe 200 whp and 106-112 tq on mid grade fuel, no overheating probs and is very rideable. We'll see how it goes.

Don

 

[Over_Easy]

(USN05LE @ Jan. 10 2007,20:36)

(Over_Easy @ Jan. 10 2007,22

)

(USN05LE @ Jan. 10 2007,20:23) When I have Guinevere "augmented" later this year, (1363/12.1:1, hd valve springs, new exhaust cam, md clutch springs, new bearings, undercut and shot peen the tranny) I am going to have it broken in on the dyno before I ever pick it up. I broke my first busa in per the manual, and the this one was broken in per the manual, but I have done some research and I believe the MotoMan method is for me. The mechanic/tuner that is doing my work breaks them in like that and believes you get more power so for what I am paying him, it is good enough for me.

Don

Don,

Motoman method calls for engine braking being very important as part of the process. Meaning a dyno is not IDEAL for this.

In short, riding on a dyno does not cause the same pressure/stress on the engine as real world acceleration and engine braking, but he says it can be done.

NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.

I am with you on this 100%. The guy that is doing my work understands this and breaks all his bikes in on the dyno and owns a highly regarded shop. He has been vouched for by several senior members here on the board. He is saying we should see mid 190s to maybe 200 whp and 106-112 tq on mid grade fuel, no overheating probs and is very rideable. We'll see how it goes.

Don

I'm curious to see the results. That's a lot of HP/TQ.

 

[Don Hardcastle]

If he loads the dyno during accel then lets the bike decel using the engine to brake then that would accomplish the same thing. I believe it can be done, IF someone knows what they are doing.

Don

 

[Don Hardcastle]

I am going to have him do a "baseline" dyno run as the bike sits the day I take it to him. Afterwards, I will have before and after dyno runs.

Don

That will see if my $$ was worth more than getting 2nd gear fixed.

 

[Lamb busa]

Lamb used the motoman break-in and just had his ride serviced. 20,000 miles more or less. Zero shims out of adjustment, the sparkplugs looked perfect. The bike runs strong as hell, never had a problem. Lamb used the parking lot at qualcomm stadium (home of the CHARGERS) and powered through 2nd ,3rd and engine braked to a stop for 20 miles. 3 hrs later, Done! Read motoman. He makes sense and it works!

 

[Wag]

Do it however you feel you should. These days, engine tolerances are so tight, it probably doesn't matter how you do it any more.

The most critical thing of all, however, is that first service. Gotta get that first oil outta there.

--Wag--

 

[shortBoarder]

+1 on motoman, changing oil SOON, and watching the chain tension. You'll be surprised how quick that new chain gets loose.

 

[dadofthree]

Followed the Zook Book. No problems 7500 + miles.

 

[TALYN]

MotoMan all the way....

USN05LE, who is the builder you are using?