Dyno results!!!

kingofdacoast said:
Thats all there is. One 32 nos funnel jet and two 90 degree foggers well placed fogging the airbox @ 950lbs of bottle pressure. Same as the other bike I posted with the pc3. No shinanagans or slight of hand there. It really surprised me how well the bazzaz added the fuel with just this small shot.
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I'm calling Bullsh*t on this one.
 
Call it what you want. I've posted the runs for everyone to see. You don't have to believe me and I have no reason to lie cause I'm not trying to sell them to anyone on here. Thats all to my kit. And it only cost me and a few of my die hard loyal customers $45 to make that HP. Just fogging the air box.
 
kingofdacoast said:
Call it what you want. I've posted the runs for everyone to see. You don't have to believe me and I have no reason to lie cause I'm not trying to sell them to anyone on here. Thats all to my kit. And it only cost me and a few of my die hard loyal customers $45 to make that HP. Just fogging the air box.
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Hey king, not to sound like a broken record, and im sure you would have already if you where gonna, But....would you PLEASE :please: post some pics? If your not marketing them, i see no reason not too. But hay if you just dont want to, thats cool too :beerchug:
 
kingofdacoast said:
Call it what you want. I've posted the runs for everyone to see. You don't have to believe me and I have no reason to lie cause I'm not trying to sell them to anyone on here. Thats all to my kit. And it only cost me and a few of my die hard loyal customers $45 to make that HP. Just fogging the air box.
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You lost all credibility with me along time ago with your misinformation and back and forth statement. These are your words but yet you are spraying a luck of he draw 80 shot dry?


kingofdacoast said:
Dry kits are just luck of the draw. Nobody that makes dry kits know for sure if it properly works or not. Just that when the button is pressed it makes hp. They think as long as its rich enough it "should" work. You can take a 150hp shot of dry and a 60 shot wet and the wet kit will make more mph and be way more consistant that that big dry shot. And cheaper too. There is another spray bar out (which I won't name) that both me and Lee Shierts tried and it destroyed alot of expensive parts. The kit was expensive to start with just to be able to do what a standard wet kit does. The only way to use a dry kit is as what they were designed to do. Fog the air box to cool intake charge, not to atomize. These big dry shots are not consistant. I have already debated this on other sites before. I've tried just about ever nos kit both wet and dry on the market. I've both dyno tested (on my own dyno) and track tested and still come back to the good ole reliable wet kit.
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On this comment you suggested pointing one end towards the middle 2 velocity stacks which will load those 2 cylinders with Nitrous. your words,not mine.

kingofdacoast said:
You need to use 90 degree fan spray foggers. That setup you have will hurt you in the long run. With the top of the airbox on all the nos will hit it and crystalize and blow huge nos ice chunks right down into the two outside cylinders and will cause major detonation. Change those foggers out ASAP! Once you get the new foggers, point the end more toward the middle two cylinder. This way, when the airbox pressurizes, it will take the nos with it and distribute it way more evenly. Make sure you get it dynoed and if you have a power commander get the hub so you can get two different maps. If you have any more questions just holla.
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Said it before and I will say it again. When you use Fan spray nozzles to Fog the airbox,you lose 10-15% Nitrous. If you use 2 Fan spray nozzles you lose about 10%. Here are some links to other Tuners and Customers that found that out and now you are saying the exact opposite (using a 32 jet with 2 fan spray nozzles gave you a 78 horsepower shot with a 950 psi bottle)

iB::Topic::spraybar its the truth

iB::Topic::spray bar

iB::Topic::Spray bar

iB::Topic::dry shot on busa fogging the box

On this thread Twistier4me went 212 mph with my Spraybar and only dialed it in at 60% with a 48 jet.

iB::Topic::At the Maxton Mile: Trying to go faster

Now all of these other Tuners and racers have stated that direct injection is more effecient than fogging the airbox. Proven on the dyno and at the track. I use my Busa as a test bike and I dont have a Bucket Full of melted parts.

kingofdacoast said:
Some can and some can't. Not ever busa is created equal. You can have 300 busa's that can handle 250hp and then one that goes boom. I've spray over 300 hp on a stock busa before It finally came apart. I'm going to push the limits so when i do tell someone "it can only handle this" I know that for sure and not guesstimating. Hence my bucket full of scrap metal and aluminum. I'll blow mine up so you don't have too.
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Oh,and by the way. Here is more misinformation. I have built plenty of stroker motors and they are all running just fine on the streets. How many 1397s are out there,sounds like you are doing something right. Now let the back peddling begin. :boxing::boxing::boxing:

kingofdacoast said:
Any stroker motor won't last on the street. I just built a stock bore/high comp piston motor with a 08 crank. I will have it on the dyno later this week to see what kind of numbers it will put out (on my BS dynojet dyno). My street kits (which are stock bore) makes around 175-180 on pump gas so I'm hoping the crank will put it around the 190 mark with alot more torque. I try to stay away from the 1397's as much as possible on street driven bikes just because of the 24v starting setup. People don't like to keep their 2nd battery charge and i get tired of the "my bike won't start" calls from them. From what I'm hearing, Chucks 1440 kit is still running strong on street bikes and making damn good power for a everyday driver.
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strokers not lasting on the street... gee I wish I woulda seen that posting in whichever thread that was...

hmm can a +8.5 stroker live on the street running pump gas for say more than 20k miles??? (and yes, I do know the answer to this question) ask your friends if you need help with the answer.

:whistle: sorry I had to join in on the :poke:
 
Seems to me someone has been drinking a little haterade this morning. Just because a few of my customers don't want to use your setup is no reason to hate. I stand behind everything I said and its the truth. You want to see my setup and its not going to happen. This setup was pass on to me with the promise it won't be put on in the public. So what if I lost credibility with you. I'm not trying to make you stand behind me. Those statements about fan spray nozzles are true to a extent but we have found a way to be efficient and make hp with no problems. None of my customers bikes have EVER had any problems. The bucket of parts are all mine and tested to the limit for the manufactures who provided them to me to test. I have not and will not post the short comings of your product on any open forum but when I am asked I will tell anyone what I know of your product. They can make the desicion themselves (just as MANY have done) to not use it or go with it. Keep in mind I don't know you nor do I have any reason to down your product because of my own I'm trying to sell on the market. I bought one, tested it and made my desicion from that. Not from how I feel about you cause untill this board I never had any conversation to you. There is no hating from me, just facts.

As far as the 90 degree foggers, they would have been better than what he was using and since cost was a issue I pointed him in a better direction than what he had. If the nozzles would be place correctly to fog the airbox instead of trying to cram the nos down the velocity stacks it wouldn't load up. Dry kits (even my own) are luck of the draw cause it will always be a slave to the bike.

Strokers motors live depending on a number of variables which I'm not going to go into cause you know what they are. Don't hide all the info from these people on here just to TRY and make me look bad. I build plenty of 1397's for streetbikes. Read my statement again and understand what I said this time.


It all comes down to my little cheap setup can outperform yours and you can't figure out why. I was taught by one the best brother. I have made some modifications to your spraybar that might interest you if you feel your ego isn't to big to accept it. :beerchug:
 
kingofdacoast said:
Seems to me someone has been drinking a little haterade this morning. Just because a few of my customers don't want to use your setup is no reason to hate. I stand behind everything I said and its the truth. You want to see my setup and its not going to happen. This setup was pass on to me with the promise it won't be put on in the public. So what if I lost credibility with you. I'm not trying to make you stand behind me. Those statements about fan spray nozzles are true to a extent but we have found a way to be efficient and make hp with no problems. None of my customers bikes have EVER had any problems. The bucket of parts are all mine and tested to the limit for the manufactures who provided them to me to test. I have not and will not post the short comings of your product on any open forum but when I am asked I will tell anyone what I know of your product. They can make the desicion themselves (just as MANY have done) to not use it or go with it. Keep in mind I don't know you nor do I have any reason to down your product because of my own I'm trying to sell on the market. I bought one, tested it and made my desicion from that. Not from how I feel about you cause untill this board I never had any conversation to you. There is no hating from me, just facts.

As far as the 90 degree foggers, they would have been better than what he was using and since cost was a issue I pointed him in a better direction than what he had. If the nozzles would be place correctly to fog the airbox instead of trying to cram the nos down the velocity stacks it wouldn't load up. Dry kits (even my own) are luck of the draw cause it will always be a slave to the bike.

Strokers motors live depending on a number of variables which I'm not going to go into cause you know what they are. Don't hide all the info from these people on here just to TRY and make me look bad. I build plenty of 1397's for streetbikes. Read my statement again and understand what I said this time.


It all comes down to my little cheap setup can outperform yours and you can't figure out why. I was taught by one the best brother. I have made some modifications to your spraybar that might interest you if you feel your ego isn't to big to accept it. :beerchug:
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I guess you keep for getting that I make both Dry and Wet Spraybars. Did you not post this on M109 Board? And now you are going back on your word about nothing being secret.

"03-01-2008, 02:17 PM #108
kingofdacoast
Member


Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 28 Re: M109R Dyno charts Library

--------------------------------------------------------------------------Nothing is secret with me. I will share any info you need. I'm probably one of the very few grudge racers who doesn't hide their motor combo. I view it like this, if your going to race, it doesn't matter how big my motor is, its do you have enough to beat me with it.
__________________
Its good to be the King."


Like I said you have lost all credibility with me so anything you say means very very little. There is no hate here. I can tell that you give out alot of misinformation and I would hate for someone else to melt pistons,period. You say my Spraybars can be improved on. Well post it.
 
I'm only commenting on the sentence "Any stroker motor won't last on the street." A similar statement could be said that no motor will last stock or not. Of course everything has to do with the combination, tune, maintenance, and many other variables. I'm not sure what you intended on people understanding from that statement other than the obvious. Maybe it was just a poor choice of words on your part.
 
All information I give is verifiable. Nothing I have posted can't be proved by only me. Anyone can check on it and find it out for themselves. You want me to show you my setup and I'm not. So now this childish playground tantrum your throwing is not going to make me show you this. But I will say it you saw it you would understand but I'm not going to give this information to you cause its not mine to give. If you can't understand that then cry yourself a river. I'm sure I can get on with my life without credibility from you.

And no poor choice of words. If you know anything about strokers then you should know the short commings of most of them. Just like with anything when you start building on something thats already built you live with the problems of them. Billet cranks are the exception cause your starting from new. Its all on who makes what.
 
kingofdacoast said:
All information I give is verifiable. Nothing I have posted can't be proved by only me. Anyone can check on it and find it out for themselves. You want me to show you my setup and I'm not. So now this childish playground tantrum your throwing is not going to make me show you this. But I will say it you saw it you would understand but I'm not going to give this information to you cause its not mine to give. If you can't understand that then cry yourself a river. I'm sure I can get on with my life without credibility from you.

And no poor choice of words. If you know anything about strokers then you should know the short commings of most of them. Just like with anything when you start building on something thats already built you live with the problems of them. Billet cranks are the exception cause your starting from new. Its all on who makes what.
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OK,I give you an A+ on the back peddling. I have no problem if you dont want to show your setup (that's not what you said on the M109 board) but you should have said so in a couple of other threads when someone asked,be straight up and be a man of your word. Sorry if you think I'm throwing a tantrum,trust me I'm not. I'm just pointing out the contraindicated statement that you make. I'm still waiting for your modifications to make my Dry and Wet Spraybars better or are you going to back peddle on that also?
 
I can agree that if it's built wrong and tuned wrong you end up with junk in a bucket whether it's a stroker or a nitrous build.
 
Gixx1300R said:
OK,I give you an A+ on the back peddling. I have no problem if you dont want to show your setup (that's not what you said on the M109 board) but you should have said so in a couple of other threads when someone asked,be straight up and be a man of your word. Sorry if you think I'm throwing a tantrum,trust me I'm not. I'm just pointing out the contraindicated statement that you make. I'm still waiting for your modifications to make my Dry and Wet Spraybars better or are you going to back peddle on that also?
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Well the statement said that I hold no secrets with my engine size not that I share everything if you want to be technical about it. I don't have your "wet" spraybar but I will share some issues of the dry bar that I have. I won't post them but I will email it too you with pics. I do have respect for you.
 
kingofdacoast said:
So do you think a weld up 8.5 with last just as long as a billet?
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If oiled properly, yes.
Don't you?
I have a friend that built a 1542cc motor with billet CAMS. They lasted about 20 minutes.
He had them welded up and they are still in the bike.

I have another friend that has a brand new billet nitrited crank and it took a dump on the third dyno pull.
It's being welded as we speak.

Just because it's billet, doesn't make it bullet proof.

Just throwing in MY $.02 for conversation sake.:thumbsup:
 
Gixx1300R said:
My email address is Gixx1300R@aol.com. What not just post the pics and your opinion here?:whistle:
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If thats the way you want it. Don't say I didn't try. You have shown us how your spraybar sprays through the airbox but I'm going to show you what happens inside the throttle bodies through the head with the injectors spraying 43lbs of fuel with your spraybar. Your not going to like what you see. I think I'll video tape it so you won't think I'm "tricking" anything up and you can see for yourself. Last chance to see it before anybody else. It will be next week cause it takes a minute to set the bench up and the cut away head.
 
SLEEPERBUSA said:
If oiled properly, yes.
Don't you?
I have a friend that built a 1542cc motor with billet CAMS. They lasted about 20 minutes.
He had them welded up and they are still in the bike.

I have another friend that has a brand new billet nitrited crank and it took a dump on the third dyno pull.
It's being welded as we speak.

Just because it's billet, doesn't make it bullet proof.

Just throwing in MY $.02 for conversation sake.:thumbsup:
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So what justify's the standard? The point I'm trying to make is circumstance. So if you take a weld up or billet crank, have it built and spec'd out with everything within tolerence and it spins a bearing the first day but you have already built 50 of them that never had a issue where's the fault? How many bikes is the limit to say "this works"? Is it 10, 100, 1000? We all hear the phrase, "xxx bikes have this setup and never had a problem". How do you explain that to the xxx1 person who did? Was it the builders fault? Was it the crank's fault? I have 13 bikes with billet cams and not one has a issue with them. Was the cams you had bad? Were they installed correctly? Whose fault is it? What is the standard.
 
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