Dyna Beads vs Michelin PR2!

Sous

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I ended up spending the evening last night cleaning, lubing and remounting the wheels on the Hayabusa. Finished up around 9 PM after new tires, cush drive (rubber softeners inside rear wheel), brake pads, brake rotors, clean and lube axles and spacers and Dyna Beads.

The Dyna Beads in a PR2 120/70 and 190/50 set up work just fine with 1oz in the front and 2oz in the rear. There was an alligator skin looking pattern on the inside of the tires, but that turned out to not be a problem.

I am a believer in the Dyna Beads now, and thanks to Tuf for giving me some advice on bedding in the new pads and rotors.
 
Here we go again with dyna beads :stirpot:

Ding Ding Round 1

It is not my intention to stir up anything new from the previous thread that got out of hand. I had said from the start that I would post my results for those interested, and this is what I have done. Feel free to comment on your opinion of Dyna Beads, but just know that some people are willing to try new things because they do not race, or get in a severe lean angle situation. I ride 120 miles round trip to work and 90% of that is interstate. I feel that Dyna Beads are a good choice for my bike, and have posted the results so that others may make an informed decision about Dyna Beads with the Michelin PR2 tires.

Again, not trying to start anything, just wanted to post my experience with the product on a specific tire.
 
Dyna beads rock


No they don't...they're dumb


not unnnn.....you're dumb


Okay.......argument over so no need to go further with that point.

:thumbsup:
 
You are most welcome Sous! It warms the heart to do your own work on your ride. Ride that puppy, dyna beads and all with the face shield down on your helmet so you don't get bugs in your teeth :laugh:

I have the engine in my GSXR1K spread out in pieces. Just got the parts to put her back together yesterday and looking forward to having her rompin ready by the end of next week. I thoroughly enjoy wrenching on my scooters.

I understand your feeling of accomplishment! :thumbsup:
 
You are most welcome Sous! It warms the heart to do your own work on your ride. Ride that puppy, dyna beads and all with the face shield down on your helmet so you don't get bugs in your teeth :laugh:

I have the engine in my GSXR1K spread out in pieces. Just got the parts to put her back together yesterday and looking forward to having her rompin ready by the end of next week. I thoroughly enjoy wrenching on my scooters.

I understand your feeling of accomplishment! :thumbsup:


Too nice. What have you done with the real TufBusa?
 
Question : Did you do anything with the rotors when you replaced the pads? I too will be doing pad replacement when the parts arrive and have had this question on my mind.
Gonna try dyna beads as well, ty for the reassurance that many non extreme racers use them and are happy with their results.
Bed in brake procedure, care to share?
Thank you for your time.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Forum Runner
 
Question : Did you do anything with the rotors when you replaced the pads? I too will be doing pad replacement when the parts arrive and have had this question on my mind.
Gonna try dyna beads as well, ty for the reassurance that many non extreme racers use them and are happy with their results.
Bed in brake procedure, care to share?
Thank you for your time.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Forum Runner

I followed Tufbusas directions to a T based on a question I had for him via PM. I had bought rotors that were used, but listed as new. They had probably less than 25 miles on them, but had a bit of pad residue and I wanted to ensure the new EBC pads were bedded in properly. He recommended I get some electrical contact cleaner to clean the rotors, and the pad were good to mount as they sat.

As for bedding in the pads to rotors, I had not heard of this procedure before and I must say that it worked great and I appreciate the advice Tufbusa had given me. He told me to lightly drag the pads at highway speed for about a mile, then brake hard from about 70 MPH down to about 10 MPH without stopping. Ride a bit more to cool off the pads, then repeat the process about 5 times. I am paraphrasing now, so Tuf, if I got any of that wrong, feel free to speak up.

Once you have done this dragging, braking, then cooling process 6-8 times you are good to go. I followed this procedure and the brakes feel great. OEM rotors with EBC HH pads and Galfer steel lines make the bike feel new again.

The tires though, damn it turns like my GSX-R 600 used to. I now realize that 14K miles on the old set of PR2's was probably a bit much due to the flat spots in the middle. They still had tread on the tire, but the new PR2's turn so much easier and I enjoy the ride a lot more. I am guessing I will replace these at 10K miles instead of 14K.

I do plan to post up a long term effect the Dyna Beads have on the PR2's later in the season.
 
So it is true you have to replace the rotors when you do brakes. I got about 14K on my rotors with the original pads. Thank you for the insight and passing along the bed in procedure.
I look forward to your updates on the beads.

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I would not say that it is true that you have to replace rotors with the pads, but it was in my situation. I have just about 23K on the bike and the rotors were warped and the pads needed to be replaced. I had 14K on the tires and they were in need of replacement as well.

The brakes are smooth as melting butter and the tires are eager for a lean and now I remember what the Hayabusa should be like instead of the commuting machine that it is for me most of the time.

The bed in procedure passed on to me by Tufbusa worked great and I plan to use that procedure for the rest of my riding life. It was easy to follow and gave me confidence in my braking power in a short amount of time.
 
I have to do some more research, as to having to replace the rotors, whenever it's time to change pads (or does that depend on, whether they are warped or not ???)...

As far as the Dyno Beads, I have 1oz in the front, 2 in the rear, in a set of new Avon Storm 2's. I changed them at 8500 miles, from the stockers. Got about 600 miles with them now, & no issues so far.

I'm still loving them :thumbsup:
 
Service manual gives you an idea as to the "wear bars" on the brake pads. So you should reference that doc to determine when to change.

Alright then ....a can of electronic contact cleaner for prepping my current rotors for my new pads. I am in belief that they are not warped in any way. Need to start saving for those Galpher rotors.. they are sharp and for a pretty good penny too.
Thanks for posting such an insightful thread.

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Make sure they are torqued down correctly according to the manual. I think the front rotor bolts were 16.5, but cannot remember for sure.
 
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