Does anyone do a cold check on oil?

Mythos said:
Here's ma fo-teen

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Ok, I'm ready to take the heat. Yea, yeah, I managed to make a 14 uglier, i know! Looks pretty to me. Going to paint rims white this winter.


So I don't get flamed too bad:
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How do you like the 14 over the Busa? I spent HOURS and HOURS of research depating the 14 over the Busa and it was even more difficult for me because I come from the Kawasaki world. I purchased the Busa for aftermarket availability, the dash layout (have to have the tach on the left - like my ZZR1200 - 14 is on the right), the 4 posts and rear handle for tying down bags, steel tanks for the magnet tank bags - 14 has a plastic tank, I liked the front fairing protection and larger windscreen of the Busa better for my touring rides and I felt like I was sitting in the Busa versus sitting on top that I got from the 14. As for looks both the 14 and Busa were about even IMO. I also read that the Busa gets a couple miles per gallon better than the 14. I also chose the Busa for it's higher resale value.

I would love to ride a 14 just to ease my mind that I made the right decision.
 
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I know just how you feel gastoys. I couldn't make my mind up. that's why i have both. That and the widely publicized fact that the busa is making 10hp more and hits top speed 1.5 seconds faster.

I love my 14 but rest assured, you made the right choice for overall performance. The busa runs so much smoother and feels more comfortable at prolonged high rpm. The busa turns a lot easier and more predictably. The 14 requires a great deal of concentration when cornering hard. The busa suspension is a little rougher but I never have a wheel take air on the bumps like i do on the 14. The busa gearbox is like glass and the 14 is notchy especially between 1, N and 2. The 14 requires precise downshifting to be real smooth, the busa is quick and easy at any rpm.

Hahahah, I never even realized the tach and the speedo were arranged opposite on the bikes until you mentioned it!

I think the 14 has slightly better wind protection and it definitely keeps you warmer on cold days with the heat that comes off it (I am the only 14 guy who loves that about the bike). The windscreen on the 14 is not swept back as much so it is easier to tuck behind and there is no hump going in your butt if you have a long torso. Also, the dip inthe gas tank cover allows a little more chin room. I can tuck tighter on the 14 but if you are under 6', the busa should work fine. The busa allows me to tuck without having my elbows touch my knees which I like a lot. The 14 saddle has a tendency to cause you to slip down toward the tank and a passenger will slide down on you. I think I find them equal in comfort but for different reasons. Both bikes have pluses and minuses that make them dead even for touring as far as I'm concerned.

Don't kill me guys -- the 14 is a better looking bike -- just slightly. The busa is really cool too. It was so hard to pick.

The busa runs cooler and cools off 5x as fast even after a long ride. The busa has many racing features that the 14 does not have and the 14 has only a couple that the busa lacks. The busa has many details in the design that the 14 does not have. Overall, the busa seems higher in quality for a comparatively small jump in price. There was a lot of thought put into the busa despite what we all think about those fairings. <<<They do fit nice and tight though, don't they? 14's are maybe a bit loose fitting in some spots and don't feel as solid.

The 14 is way more convenient to do work on. It has the most amazing stock brakes. It is stronger in midrange, but it is vicious strong. I don't like to spend a lot of time at 6K, it just feels like there is a whirling ball of energy in there that is going to explode. 6K on the busa is more or less calm. It feels much more manageable riding twisties at high rpm and it's ideal for a landspeed bike and you have your +10 hp on top if you need it. With the 14's midrange power, I feel 6th gear is useable for even legal speed highway travel. You have plenty of torque without down shifting. 6th gear on the busa is really at its best when you are flying. I feel that I need to shift around the gears just a bit more on the busa. Actually, that seems more sporty to me and less like a cruiser.

The mirrors on the busa are great. The 14's are nearly worthless by comparison.

I have this buddy who owns both and I think he put it best: 'The 14 is like a 70s muscle car and the busa is like a European sports car.' If you hear the exhaust notes in person, that tells you a lot about how they ride. Also just look at them. the 14 looks like it will cut you and the busa looks smooth and round. I think those guys must have got together and planned that out. it's just too true to life. That is exactly how they feel to me. The 14 is vicious and raw and the busa is smooth and refined. If sport riding is your main thing, I would stick with the busa. Flat out drag racing - there is no way to call a winner. One is stronger up high, the other at midrange. Down low, they say the busa has it but I can't tell ant dif, really.
 
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Mythos - Nice comparision thanks!
Oh and I check my oil after every ride, and if there is a leak before the next ride, I will see it.
 
i check the oil when cold and it should sit right in the middle of the sight glass. just wait for the bike to cool down after 2-3 min. of a warm up and then re-check the sight glass.
 
I check it before a long ride...don't do it during the week a round town. 4.0 quarts with a new filter and your good to go...never had to add any oil between changes.
 
RACER_X said:
since we're talking oil

whats the oil capacity for a gen II?
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4.0 quarts with a new filter...book will say 3.7 or 3.8 don't remember. Just use the 4.0 and it will be right near the top of the glass :thumbsup:
 
BA BUSA said:
4.0 quarts with a new filter...book will say 3.7 or 3.8 don't remember. Just use the 4.0 and it will be right near the top of the glass :thumbsup:
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Actually the book says 3.5 with filter, 3.3 without filter. That will bring it to the minimum line. Almost everyone seems to go with 4 qts from posts I see here and in other threads. That's what I plan to do from now on too.
 
Cold oil check before she leaves the garage. Wifey doesn't like it when I startup in the garage, rumbling exhaust note carries throughout the house. :laugh:

As far as the oil volume debate, my 2¢ is to follow the mfr's recommendation in the manual. I think that many who dump the 4 qts in is either out of laziness, inability to measure or simply not wanting to have a 1/2 qt laying around the garage. :poke:

If you're putting in 4 qts, the extra oil is just that extra. While it may be minimal, the risk is that the crankshaft hits the oil level, causing hydraulic shock for which it's not designed. It also robs power and fuel economy because too much oil causes resistance to the crank. Lubrication is fine, but bathe the crank in oil and it has to push too much out of the way. Too much oil can also result in foaming which makes your lubrication factor drop.

It's your bike, do what you want. I'm following the mfr. :moon:
 
I check it cold, before every ride. It's always in the glass and never had to add yet. 08' with 15k on it
 
If you're putting in 4 qts, the extra oil is just that extra. While it may be minimal, the risk is that the crankshaft hits the oil level, causing hydraulic shock for which it's not designed. It also robs power and fuel economy because too much oil causes resistance to the crank. Lubrication is fine, but bathe the crank in oil and it has to push too much out of the way. Too much oil can also result in foaming which makes your lubrication factor drop.
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Been thinking about what you have said, Rusheriv. Perhaps the warming of the oil after a few minutes of running will cause the oil to expand in volume somewhat. If this is the case, a cold check should look low and a warm check, after waiting 3 minutes for oil to run down from the upper engine, should read dead center between the marks. I have not tried this yet. I have heard about too much oil causing resistance to the crankshaft. They call that windage and it is something you want to avoid if you are racing.

I will have to check the oil cold and compare that to a hot check the next time i ride. If the level looks the same, I think 4 qts will be best. If the level looks perfect with 3.5 qts when hot, then that is the way to go.
 
For me, I use 4 qts and it brings the oil level with the upper hash mark in the site glass. Coorect me if I am wrong but to me, that is the recommended upper level. This being the case, 4 qts works just fine for me.

BTW ... I started out at 3500 ml then increased up to 4000 ml. I experimented with this during the frequent oil changes during break-in.

The manual on page 0B-11, specifically states after an oil change and when checked that "let the engine run several minutes at idle, then shut off" and "after 3-minutes, hold the bike verticle to check level"
 
Just did the hot check as per the book. Started out at 3300 mL and ended-up with 4000mL. Same net result.
 
yeah , I changed mine yeasterday,,and the book [ gen i] calls for 3.5 with filter,,but when you stand it up straight,,it was low,,more like a hair under 4 qts,,,and yeah you can check it when its cold,,,I ussually lay on my side faceing the rear tire and grab the bike and pull it my way until,its floating,,no pressure,,youll see the oil,,,alot of times,,it doesnt show until the last 3 inches comeing to me,,,,,,,,,,,,,Im , in NM ,,its 115 here sometimes,,so i run 20/50 in the summer,and 10/40 in the winter,,,,,,,,,also the manual calls for antifreeze and no to add water,,,tap exspecially,,if you do,,must be distilled,,,,,,,,so far my bike isnt loseing any,,I put 2 oz in last yr,thats all in over 6 yrs,thank you Lord
 
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I put around 3.5 on my oil changes.. It is better to be slightly low then overfull. Suzuki would have said 4 quarts if thats what should be in there.
 
I don't understand why some, when changing oil put 4 quarts in when the manual clearly stats to put 3.5 quarts in???
 
How do some of you check your oil?
Do you put you bike on the rear stand and then check it?
I have heard this before in this forum that some of you cant see the oil in the window.

The best was to check your oil is have another person sitting on your bike on a flat surface or steady the bike yourself from the right side and make sure it is perfectly balanced while looking in the window.

Sometimes when you change the oil it is hard to see in the window, ya kinda have to sway the bike a little back and fourth to see the oil moving around in the window.
 
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