Clicking by the rear sprocket
- Thread starter MoNoXiDe
- Start date
Make sure the chain slack is good, lube the chain...and ride it!
I wouldn't worry about a little click backing up.
So what if the teeth look a little worn, it happens, some just sooner than others for various reasons.
No worries
I wouldn't worry about a little click backing up.
So what if the teeth look a little worn, it happens, some just sooner than others for various reasons.
No worries
The people telling him to replace it with a steel aren't paying much attention to his picture. It looks a though he is running a Supersprox sprocket and NOT Vortex.
Contact Supersprox and see if they will replace the sprocket. Then get a new chain and replace both at same time
Contact Supersprox and see if they will replace the sprocket. Then get a new chain and replace both at same time
lol, dont you know those junky vortex are riveted together......
You're right, I'm not paying attention to the picture, only what the early experts were saying, not what the later experts are now saying. Besides, I wouldn't be able to tell what it is by the picture....
MoNoXiDe
Registered
im going to have to disagree on the sprocket being messed up. I just took the wheel and chain off again and everything looks fine to me. There was alittle grease by the teeth of it but wiped right off. Its been so freaking cold here, I haven't been able to ride it. I just ordered my akrapovic exhaust and some other things. I will be riding it to my friends shop and I'll see how it goes once I'm there.
Unless you place the ace of spades playing card in the hub to click against the spokes like you did with your bicycle as a kid, there is nothing wrong with your bike. Since you don't have enough spokes to make that work you may have to rig the playing card to click against the sprocket teeth.
If you notice a clicking noise when you push your bike backwards and you don't notice the sound while moving the bike forward, there is reason for that and all bikes with a properly adjusted chain (The more slack in the chain the more noticeable) do this. Put the bike up on the rear stand and spin the wheel backwards and listen. Then, spin the wheel forward and listen. You'll find your answer!
There is absolutely nothing in the rear wheel assembly to create a clicking noise other than the chain against the sprocket. The only moving parts internally is roller bearings. If a bearing is bad it makes a growling sound. If the bearing is bad enough to hear it, you'll be able to feel the roughness when you slowly turn the wheel while on the stand and you'll most likely be able to physically see a wobble in the tire as it turns.
If you notice a clicking noise when you push your bike backwards and you don't notice the sound while moving the bike forward, there is reason for that and all bikes with a properly adjusted chain (The more slack in the chain the more noticeable) do this. Put the bike up on the rear stand and spin the wheel backwards and listen. Then, spin the wheel forward and listen. You'll find your answer!
There is absolutely nothing in the rear wheel assembly to create a clicking noise other than the chain against the sprocket. The only moving parts internally is roller bearings. If a bearing is bad it makes a growling sound. If the bearing is bad enough to hear it, you'll be able to feel the roughness when you slowly turn the wheel while on the stand and you'll most likely be able to physically see a wobble in the tire as it turns.
Deserteagle83
Registered
OP, i'm not sure if you have this issue resolved or not, but I recently had the same clicking issue. I took my bike to my local shop and it turn out that I had my chain overtightened. The noise was really bothering me. I wasn't sure if I need new bearings, needed a new chain, a new sprocket, etc… In any case, my mechanic loosened the chain up for me, cleaned it, lubed it and I haven't heard the noise since.
Stealth_Busa
Registered
Umm. anyone notice how he Cleans the Chain "Soap and Water"............We already saw a Tight Link, maybe from Rivit Rust in the Rollers?
Anyhow, you would be best served by cleaning with Kerosene or Diesel. The Water can get behind the O / X Rings and cause problems.
Stealth
Anyhow, you would be best served by cleaning with Kerosene or Diesel. The Water can get behind the O / X Rings and cause problems.
Stealth
MoNoXiDe
Registered
Yes, the problem is still there. I've been so tied up at work, I haven't had a chance to mess with it. I believe its too tight of a chain too.
MoNoXiDe
Registered
I used soap and water to clean the grime off the chain. Dried it and put it back on. The chain is brand new, and no signs of rust. I relubed it with Belray before the ride. I honestly don't think its rust.
What amazes me is how I had slack in the chain before I took it off and when I put it back on it was tighter then a frogs azz.
I guess I can buy another masterlink so I can add one more link to the chain. Its just weird, how could the chain shrink, if anything it stretches. Wonder if its the difference in the new tire I put on.
jphilipson
Registered
+1 - If you think it's tight, loosen it up a bit. Also, when you adjust your chain, you need to spin the wheel to till the chain is in the tightest spot and adjust there. You should be able to grab the chain and move it point to point (up/down) about an inch at that spot.
If you didn't mess with the adjustment bolts and after re-installing the wheel assembly only to find the chain taunt this is most likely your issue: The axle blocks are not seated against the adjustment bolts.
This is how I re-install the rear wheel assembly in order to avoid an issue such as yours. Once the wheel assembly is in place with the chain on the sprocket and the axle nut on finger tight I use a phillips screwdriver with the diameter of the round shank about the size of a pencil to place between the top of the sprocket and chain. I then rotate the wheel backwards until the chain is popcorn tight before giving the axle ends a couple taps on each side with a rubber hammer to make sure the adjustment blocks are tight against the adjustment bolts. I then hold the tire in place with my foot keeping the chain tight while I torque the axle. Done,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, with the same results every time.
I have learned from trial and error that the proper chain tension is achieved when the round phillips screw driver has the chain taunt at the 0ne O'clock position of the sprocket. This is the method we use at the track to mount tires in a hurry eliminating the step of measuring sag in the chain.
Not the only way to mount a wheel but it works wonderfully well for me!
MoNoXiDe
Registered
No damage to the sprocket. The outcome was it was too tight. When I took my tire off, a friend that was there had moved the adjuster bolts back. "i dont know why" thats why the dang chain was hard to get back on after I took it off. Were all good now. Installing PCV, BMC filter, and Full Akrapovic exhaust now. Stay tuned for pics and thanks for all the comments.
I tight chain 
Glad you got it
Glad you got it
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