Sprocket Muncher

[ndhaley]

Hello All,

First Post.

Background Info:
Purchased this Busa this September. I love this bike.
2000 Blue/Silver Hayabusa Turbo running selectable 9 or 14 lb boost.

I am on my second front sprocket this summer (17 tooth case hardened "Sprocket Specialties" Brand).

I am running a ZVM 530 X Ring Chain Running stock Rear Sprocket.

The only thing I can figure out is maybe the chain is stretched and under a load is binding on the front sprocket an then shering the teeth off.

First Sprocket took 11 teeth off in one wack now the second sprocket is completly toothless.

Note: It is doing this WITH OUT any boost at all. I have jacked up the rear and spun the rear tire to see if there is any obvious Binding or Chain climbing but it all seems smooth.

I lube the chain based on ride frequency but usually twice a month and keep the chain and bike very clean.

Any ideas? OR do you guys agree it probably the chain.

Thanks,
Nate

 

[Johnnycheese]

what size arm (stock or long?)
what do you adjust you chain to.

 

[ndhaley]

Stock Swing Arm
About 1/4" to 1/2" deflection.

 

[Johnnycheese]

Stock Swing Arm
About 1/4" to 1/2" deflection.

Pull your lowering links and move the swingarm so that the swingarm bolt and rear axle are in the same plane. At that point you need to have the chain like a banjo string.

 

[ndhaley]

Stock Swing Arm
About 1/4" to 1/2" deflection.

Pull your lowering links and move the swingarm so that the swingarm bolt and rear axle are in the same plane. At that point you need to have the chain like a banjo string.

Sorry, I don't understand.

Are you saying get the rear axle and rear swing arm piviot point at the same level? And that is where the chain should be taught.?

 

[PaceMaster]

Hello..YES to axle nut and swingarm pivot at same level...chain pretty snug at that point...Maybe two people could sit on the bike to get it at that level while you adjust it.

 

[ndhaley]

Hello..YES to  axle nut and swingarm pivot at same level...chain pretty snug at that point...Maybe two people could sit on the bike to get it at that level while you adjust it.

Well this may be easy... Because it already sits almost at that point. It has been lowered.... Almost to it's max. The Fender and stock license plate holder have been removed as well as under the "Passenger seat/Hump" the tool storage area has been modified to accept the rear tire under heavy acceleration... the tread of the tire can go up inside. It's all been trimmed in Aluminum so nothing gets scuffed or melted due to once in awhile tire contact.

Sorry I know you don't care to have me ramble... But I am still pretty geeked about my busa even if it is giving me fits right now.

Thanks for the clarification!

In my first post I thought it might be chain stretch. How do you know if a chain is streched? Will it do the same problem? (Shearing teeth from the front sprocket).

Thanks,

 

[Johnnycheese]

also you need to junk the chain anytime you break a tooth .
also which clutch set up

 

[ndhaley]

also you need to junk the chain anytime you break a tooth .
also which clutch set up

Thanks for the info.

I am thinking on going with a RK 530 DR (Drag Race) chain or a DID 530 ZVM (X-Ring) both have 10,400 tensile strength.

I am currently running the DID 530 ZVM. But looking at the RK...

What do you think Stay with DID or try RK.... Or any other suggestions?

As for the Clutch I don't know. I purchased the bike this past september and all I know is the clutch plates where beefed up and the pressure spring was upgraded too.

Thanks,
Nate

 

[Johnnycheese]

EK530DRZ stronger than the two u listed

 

[ndufan]

go with the EK530DRZ. It was my third one and by far the longest lasting one. I broke the dragrace chain in under 4000 miles.

 

[ndhaley]

Thanks. Appreciate all the info guys! I'll let you know if this cures it.

Have a Great Day
Nate