My chain broke and busted the water pump housing,shift shaft housing,sproket cover,clutch pushrod,and tore out the pushrods seal in the case,which the seal to replace correctly requires the cases to be seperated(bad design).To fix the seal I got the correct one got an inch an8th'' frezze plug filled the seal so it would fit inside the frez plug then jb welded it into frez plug, frez plug fit hole in case perf.But the fix isn't my point,my dealer told me that Suzuki would'nt warranty the problem because it was caused by abuse.So I guess if the motor blows up they dont have to warranty that?All the bikes I've owned I never had A real serious prob,or with warranty but this really is'nt right. My chain never did seem right from day one had to constantly adjust it made clunking sounds then at 6000 miles let go,so if your chain dont seem right to you buy you a good one. Has any one else had these probs?I've heard of teeth getting striped off rear sprokets also.
Chain breaking
- Thread starter HDBUSA
- Start date
i've also had trouble with suzuki upholding their warranty. over a bent shift fork with a 6month old bike with less than 2,500 miles on it. read"transmission problems" posted here in common problems.
their warranty service sucks!!!!! as soon as i get back i'm getting rid of it and gettin a new KAW... i hate to do it but SUZUKI really dissappointed me this time especially from a loyal zook customer.....later zookheads.......
their warranty service sucks!!!!! as soon as i get back i'm getting rid of it and gettin a new KAW... i hate to do it but SUZUKI really dissappointed me this time especially from a loyal zook customer.....later zookheads.......
All motorcycle problems are caused by doing too many wheelies.
Seriously, though, the blue-link OEM DID chains have had problems. Keep them well lubed and no more than 2 cm slack. In addition to that, though, you need to make sure that the chain is not stretched too much. Count 21 pins on the chain and measure the distance between at the same point on the pins. It should be no more than 319.4 mm or 12.57 in.
This is one of the many reasons why I learned to do my own work from the start. Dealers have consistantly done more damage than repair and always use the lame excuse that it must be owner's 'abuse'... even if it is clearly obvious that they screwed something up themselves.
Seriously, though, the blue-link OEM DID chains have had problems. Keep them well lubed and no more than 2 cm slack. In addition to that, though, you need to make sure that the chain is not stretched too much. Count 21 pins on the chain and measure the distance between at the same point on the pins. It should be no more than 319.4 mm or 12.57 in.
This is one of the many reasons why I learned to do my own work from the start. Dealers have consistantly done more damage than repair and always use the lame excuse that it must be owner's 'abuse'... even if it is clearly obvious that they screwed something up themselves.
I have 1500 miles on mine, and when i got on it yesterday i had the same clunking. I checked the chain tension and it needs to be adjusted. So i think maybe its slipping on a tooth, maybe.
You did just convince me to buy a new chain.
Any suggestions on brands??????????????????
You did just convince me to buy a new chain.
Any suggestions on brands??????????????????
twisted wrist
Registered
I've had some trouble with the stock chain, I felt that it streched to much, but I also got 25000 miles out of it, buy the time I was out of adjustment with the blocks to the end of the swingarm the stock chain had 2 " slack , my bad!! I ride hard, or should I say, like it should be rode! I changed my front sprocket from a 17 to a 16 and left the rear sprocket alone . Looks like I'll get another 7-8000 miles out of it, front one was ok also! just wanted to get where I was going alittle faster. The new chain is working fine -no troubles with it!
Spend the money to get best one! For around 150.00 I put on a ( 112-530-DIDZVM-530 Xring )
Spend the money to get best one! For around 150.00 I put on a ( 112-530-DIDZVM-530 Xring )
Chains are a deadly serious matter....
Ok..I know it's possible to run a chain for alot of miles.BUT..
The second you see red rust sneaking out past the o -rings..even on just one link.....YOUR CHAIN IS TOAST!! From
that point on ..it will just stretch and stretch..bending the the teeth over on your sprockets....How about 40,ooo miles on a 900 ninja..and the sprockets were still fine...about 8000
is about what you can get out of a chain..estimate..
Narc is correct to measure.....but if it's past the limit it probably has red rust......
Ps..I cannot imagine riding a Busa,....and have the chain skip over the the teeth of a sprocket....."INSANE"
Ok..I know it's possible to run a chain for alot of miles.BUT..
The second you see red rust sneaking out past the o -rings..even on just one link.....YOUR CHAIN IS TOAST!! From
that point on ..it will just stretch and stretch..bending the the teeth over on your sprockets....How about 40,ooo miles on a 900 ninja..and the sprockets were still fine...about 8000
is about what you can get out of a chain..estimate..
Narc is correct to measure.....but if it's past the limit it probably has red rust......
Ps..I cannot imagine riding a Busa,....and have the chain skip over the the teeth of a sprocket....."INSANE"
PS, I got a new DID chain a while back. It now has over 10K miles. I have yet to have to adjust the tension. The 21-pin length is currently 315mm, plently of room to go. The sprockets are original.
I don't use chain wax or lubes, either. I just place the bike on the rear stand after I get home and run a tooth brush on the chain and spray lubricant/cleaner with the wheel turning, both sides (top and bottom). Then I drip 30W gear oil on the chain. I do this very often, though (if I had a Hawk oiler, this would make things much easier).
Sure, it's a bit messy, but I never care about 'showing' my bike.
I plan on getting an x-link chain with an auto oiler, but that can wait. Much less rolling resistance with those.
I don't use chain wax or lubes, either. I just place the bike on the rear stand after I get home and run a tooth brush on the chain and spray lubricant/cleaner with the wheel turning, both sides (top and bottom). Then I drip 30W gear oil on the chain. I do this very often, though (if I had a Hawk oiler, this would make things much easier).
Sure, it's a bit messy, but I never care about 'showing' my bike.
I plan on getting an x-link chain with an auto oiler, but that can wait. Much less rolling resistance with those.
2 things.
The stock chains suck. Shese bikes make a lot of torque. If you plant that back tire good just one time you will notice it streatched, and needs tightened. I threw threw mine away at 1500 miles.
Second Suzuki is not the problem. Try a different dealer. Dealers make quite a lot less for waranty work. Why would they waste their time doing a fixed rate job that the factory sets the price on when they could be charging someone $55 am hour to change the spark plugs. This is the way it works my friends.
The stock chains suck. Shese bikes make a lot of torque. If you plant that back tire good just one time you will notice it streatched, and needs tightened. I threw threw mine away at 1500 miles.
Second Suzuki is not the problem. Try a different dealer. Dealers make quite a lot less for waranty work. Why would they waste their time doing a fixed rate job that the factory sets the price on when they could be charging someone $55 am hour to change the spark plugs. This is the way it works my friends.
Old tread but important..I have blue link chain..I ride hard..
keep it lubed and adjusted..no problems so far..like i said last year..skipping teeth...breaking chains is a major upset..should not happen ever....."insane" on a bike like this.....
Now 10,000 on it..still within spec..look for the red oxide rust
spittin out of the o rings..replace it right then..I know about this stuff....beware..imagine blowing a chain at very high speed..This and a few other bikes need special care.....OK.
Ps 25k is probably way to many miles..nut's
keep it lubed and adjusted..no problems so far..like i said last year..skipping teeth...breaking chains is a major upset..should not happen ever....."insane" on a bike like this.....
Now 10,000 on it..still within spec..look for the red oxide rust
spittin out of the o rings..replace it right then..I know about this stuff....beware..imagine blowing a chain at very high speed..This and a few other bikes need special care.....OK.
Ps 25k is probably way to many miles..nut's
2001hayabusa
Registered
i've had good luck with my original chain, about 9000 miles now and only 2 small adjustments since new.
i put a hawke electronic oiler on my bike:
http://www.aircraftgallery.com/chainoiler/index.html
i put a hawke electronic oiler on my bike:
http://www.aircraftgallery.com/chainoiler/index.html
GSX1300RSILVER
Registered
My new 2003 Busa has an RK chain on her.
Any oppinions?
Seems beautiful.
Any oppinions?
Seems beautiful.
Im changing chain,both sprockets today.What do I need to do to get the front counter off? I cant find any info,Ive looked and it looks like the sprocket is behind the coolant res.?Does it have to be removed? How about the clutch hookups there? Back sprocket is 43.5 tork.Whats front.Help,please.Thanks
front sprocket:
remove left fairing, remove(or just move) the coolant overflow tank,
remove front sprocket cover... I think it was 4 or 5 bolts, also have to take off clutch slave cylinder.
you now have to lockup the rear wheel somehow.... I used a long prybar with towels wrapped around it so's not to damage the wheel, the nut on the front sprocket is very tight! careful! should be easy from there.
Good luck, let us know if you need more help.
cache.
Hey Guys,
The chain isn't the problem. It's the anti-torque hub in the clutch. The "clunk" that you hear is the anti-torque hub dis-engaging, engaging. The excessive, pre-mature chain wear is the result of the 2-piece clutch hub jumping in and out pounding that poor chain w/ over 150 rwbhp! Do the carpenter locking ring mod, and forget it. Really!
The chain isn't the problem. It's the anti-torque hub in the clutch. The "clunk" that you hear is the anti-torque hub dis-engaging, engaging. The excessive, pre-mature chain wear is the result of the 2-piece clutch hub jumping in and out pounding that poor chain w/ over 150 rwbhp! Do the carpenter locking ring mod, and forget it. Really!
All motorcycle problems are caused by doing too many wheelies.
Seriously, though, the blue-link OEM DID chains have had problems. Keep them well lubed and no more than 2 cm slack. In addition to that, though, you need to make sure that the chain is not stretched too much. Count 21 pins on the chain and measure the distance between at the same point on the pins. It should be no more than 319.4 mm or 12.57 in.
This is one of the many reasons why I learned to do my own work from the start. Dealers have consistantly done more damage than repair and always use the lame excuse that it must be owner's 'abuse'... even if it is clearly obvious that they screwed something up themselves.
Yes I think I read the wheelie part in consumer reports.
When it comes to chanin and sprockets. make sure you go(or do yourself) that you can trust. Best way is to ask how they adjust. If they tell you by the marks find somneone else. Should be using a micrometer or somthing that is measure out. I also believe in getting the best chain you can. EK zvx 10,800lb pull. DID makes a new chain = in pull. Stay away from light weight specials that promise performance gains, you don't need the light chain for a Busa. I also agree if the cahin snapped it was very loose or loose and tight hard spots.
One more then always use a revit master link.
One more then always use a revit master link.
I agree an' use a micrometer to get "as close as possible".
BUT....
There is in fact, only one true constant , only one way in which a chain should be adjusted . The only real correct way , is to measure the distance between the swingarm pivot point (the center of the swing arm) and the center of the rear axle . You need to do this on both sides of the bike obviously . AND...they do sell 'em . A tool to do this measurement . I'm going to make something , juz for da' heck of it .
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