Caution: Buell Peg Mod Causes Comfort (and Pigeon Toe)

RatherBusa

RatherBusa

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After several long rides over the last few months, I decided to do the Buell peg mod, because my knees just can't take it anymore.

Well, problem solved. Knees nice and comfy, but I have to go all pigeon toed trying to hit my shift or brake lever.... and sometimes I miss!

I did the vertical adjustments and was happy with that, but I am guessing this might just have to be a sacrifice I make for the knee comfort.

Any thoughts?
 
I wasn't impressed with the mod either. It made my back cramp up.

Someone had a longer "peg" attached to the shift lever so that it could be reached. You might try doing that.
 
Big Wall said:
I wasn't impressed with the mod either. It made my back cramp up.

Someone had a longer "peg" attached to the shift lever so that it could be reached. You might try doing that.
Click to expand...

Well, I am gonna give them a shot for a few more days before I put the stock ones back on, but it is a little disappointing seeing as they were close to $100.

I really do think they're helping my knees.
 
You can adjust shifter and brake pedal to be lower. I prefer mine really low and I found great position.
 
I saw a guy a while back to took his gear shifter and cut off the peice where your foot touches it, drilled out the hole, took a footpeg ( your choice of style ) drilled and taped a hole through the end of it, ran a bolt through the hole on the gear shift lever into the taped hole in the new foot peg and walah and extended nice looking gear shifter, Damn I hope that made sence.
 
mike1180 said:
Me too.
Mine are both really low.
Kept lowering them until they were the best comfort.
Click to expand...

Well, I have lowered both fairly low. In fact, I can't go any lower with the shift lever or else I can't shift because the kick-stand is in the way! As it is right now, when I shift up, the bottom of my foot can still feel the kick-stand.

I'm happy with the vertical position. I spent plenty of time trying to get that right.

Think I need to try the lever extender thing. If that works, I'm set. :thumbsup:
 
mike1180 said:
Me too.
Mine are both really low.
Kept lowering them until they were the best comfort.
Click to expand...

Well, I don't think I have the tools to drill out the threading the way you did. I like your solution - looks nice, but not sure I can pull it off.

Maybe you should go into business. :tongue:
 
It isn't that bad.
You just need a drill bit and a tap and a die.
Aluminum is really soft, and the threads cut really easy.
Believe me it works like a charm.
Shifts so easy now and my foot points straight ahead!
I love the Buell pegs and this was the only drawback.
 
I installed my pegs last night, and man-oman what a better feeling.

I am 6'4" tall and wear a size 15, the pegs are perfect, I also rock a Tobin seat so this mod had to be done...

I am going to take about 1/4 inch off the threads on the rear brake lever so I can get it just a bit lower,

I rode last night for over 30 minutes on the freeway and didn't have any issues at all...:cheerleader:

:brave:
 
mike1180 said:
It isn't that bad.
You just need a drill bit and a tap and a die.
Aluminum is really soft, and the threads cut really easy.
Believe me it works like a charm.
Shifts so easy now and my foot points straight ahead!
I love the Buell pegs and this was the only drawback.
Click to expand...

So, I don't mind looking retarded... how did you cut the end up the stock lever off, so you could remove the rubber? My scissors don't work. Pocket knife either.

Remember, I have no tools. ::9
 
RatherBusa said:
So, I don't mind looking retarded... how did you cut the end up the stock lever off, so you could remove the rubber? My scissors don't work. Pocket knife either.

Remember, I have no tools. ::9
Click to expand...

A hacksaw works best.
For this one little job, you can just by the blade if you don't want to invest in the saw. Put a little tape on each end and then you can just hold it in your hands.
This new toy may be the excuse you need to get some tools.
Working on these things is fun and satisfying.
Most of the stuff we do to fix up our bikes are things that are hard to find someone else to do for you and/or will charge you a fortune.
I like to work on my own bike to get to know it better.
I feel safer and can ride better with confidence that it is done right.
I have had too many bad experiences with someone else playing around or learning on my stuff, and they don't care.
NOBODY ever touches my bike for any reason. I do everything myself now.
No-one was born knowing any of this stuff. We are all self taught, and this forum is a huge asset to start to venture in. Take your time, think it out ask lots if questions and try something. If you get in trouble, ask some more. Start out with basic things ( don't try to rebuild your engine as a first) but adjusting your chain or checking tire pressure, taking off your seat and looking around at the battery, lifting your tank and looking in there, all are a start.
Good luck!
 
mike1180 said:
A hacksaw works best.
For this one little job, you can just by the blade if you don't want to invest in the saw. Put a little tape on each end and then you can just hold it in your hands.
This new toy may be the excuse you need to get some tools.
Working on these things is fun and satisfying.
Most of the stuff we do to fix up our bikes are things that are hard to find someone else to do for you and/or will charge you a fortune.
I like to work on my own bike to get to know it better.
I feel safer and can ride better with confidence that it is done right.
I have had too many bad experiences with someone else playing around or learning on my stuff, and they don't care.
NOBODY ever touches my bike for any reason. I do everything myself now.
No-one was born knowing any of this stuff. We are all self taught, and this forum is a huge asset to start to venture in. Take your time, think it out ask lots if questions and try something. If you get in trouble, ask some more. Start out with basic things ( don't try to rebuild your engine as a first) but adjusting your chain or checking tire pressure, taking off your seat and looking around at the battery, lifting your tank and looking in there, all are a start.
Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help.

I have done a few of the things you mentioned - changing oil is next, after solving my shift problem.

These are the tools I purchased:
- A Dremel - pretty cool, versatile tool it seems
- A Vice Grip Wrench: to hold metal stock
- Tap and Die Set: Only had sets, with many extra tools I prolly won't know what to do with

Materials for this Project:
- Only had 1/2" aluminum stock, but did have 5/8" steel, so I got both - maybe neither will work

We'll see how it turns out.
 
The dremel will work to cut off the end of the shifter. Use one of the black thin wheels.
The 1/2 aluminum stock will work OK. It will just be a little tricky to get the hole exactly in the center. The size of the drill bit you need will be marked on the tap, or in your box that came with the set.
Your shifter will just be a little smaller in diameter than the stock one.
I would suggest you not try the steel bar.
It is way harder and will take a lot of effort to get threads on the inside.
Let us know how it all works!
 
When I use a tap or die I go 1/4 turn forward then 3/4 turn back to let the threads clean out. Then back to where you were at the 1/4 turn and forward another 1/4 and then back 3/4 turn. Aluminum is really soft and you can use some lubricant like engine oil to help lube it as it cuts. Just a small squirt where you are cutting the treads every 1 or 2 turns.
 
mike1180 said:
When I use a tap or die I go 1/4 turn forward then 3/4 turn back to let the threads clean out. Then back to where you were at the 1/4 turn and forward another 1/4 and then back 3/4 turn. Aluminum is really soft and you can use some lubricant like engine oil to help lube it as it cuts. Just a small squirt where you are cutting the treads every 1 or 2 turns.
Click to expand...

alright cool - I just got the lever lip cut off with the Dremel and then the rubber removed, so on with this next step.

Trying to decide on the correct size - I know you said Metric 8X10.
 
RatherBusa said:
alright cool - I just got the lever lip cut off with the Dremel and then the rubber removed, so on with this next step.

Trying to decide on the correct size - I know you said Metric 8X10.
Click to expand...

Think I am going to go with 3/8". Close to 10 mm = 0.393700"
 
The drill should be the size of the shaft of the bolt without the threads.
You need something to cut off of the aluminum sides after the drill comes out.
Practice on a piece of wood.
You can drill and tap it fine and see if it is the right size.
 
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