Carpenter heads

r1d3on3

r1d3on3

Registered
Well... I'm kicking tires, trying to get some ideas put together. I got to looking into headwork and cam swap, mild cams so I'll still have a streetable bike. Also considering larger valves / stainless steel. Stainless for future turbo build. I plan on calling Carpenter when/if I actually get serious about buying but for now I thought I would ask some of you out there that know a little something about the subject. I've read some of the posts about Carpenter and was looking for a close guestimate on hp/torque numbers.

With Brocks AH, headwork, cams, larger stainless valves, a good tune on pump gas, any idea on hp numbers? :beerchug:
 
Gen 1 or Gen 2??

Carpenter has package deals.. not sure on Gen 1 but Gen 2 ur loojing at around 220 rwhp give or take a few. Check out website, alk info and hp gains are on their
 
Cant answer that but the experts will be along shortly to help. Goodluck

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
Austin,

Carpenter is the best in the biz IMO. However, If you plan to go turbo, I would not mess with the ports or the cams. Does depend a little on what kinda hp you plan to make. You can make over 300 hp to the wheel w/o messing with the ports or cams. You would wanna degree your cams. Definitely replace springs and valves though.
Drop compression, replace valves and springs, bolt-on a turbo and knock down 250ish to the wheel on pump gas. Add water injection and make 275 ish on pump gas. Add race gas and crank up the boost and make over 300 to the wheel. Won't that work for ya?
 
I'm sure that would work great :thumbsup: Still learning to ride what I have so I'm a little ways from it, lol. I'm in info gathering mode right now though cause I know it's gonna happen, there's always that itch to go faster, quicker. Once I get the launch down consistently I'll be looking for whats next, I know myself... :laugh:

I was partially looking into ports/cams for the time being because of the fun budget is limited at the moment. I figured if the price was right for me sending the head over to Carpenter, I would spring for it. Another reason is I figured well, if I can afford that now and be running maybe 210 hp give or take, that would be cool, then once time & funds came available for me to bolt on a turbo, it would be just that much more performance. Then I got to wondering how much headwork helped when running boost. I would think when forcing air in you might not see a huge gain from porting to an extent, but I don't know that much at all about building engines either.

So school me :beerchug:
 
I've been running the numbers for some time Austin. For what you want, I wouldn't even mess with the head/cams. You are talking about $1,200 for head work, $600+ for cams, $400 for valves, $150 for springs, etc. for maybe 20hp and that depends if you increase compression or anything else.

For that price you are half way to a Turbo. You could sell your pipe and be 3/4 of the way to a Stage-1 RCC that will make 240hp on a stock Gen-II motor. When you have some more cash, you could do the basic valves/springs/etc. and make 300hp+ on stock pistons/rods. Then a full build if you want more.

I'm working on the same thing and will just keep saving until the time is right to pull the trigger... ;)
 
I've got to agree with others. It really doesn't make sense to spend the money on NA headwork and then end up going turbo. If it's a really long term turbo project then maybe you can have a head done and when you're ready to go turbo, sell the head and pickup another used stocker head for the turbo engine. Also, the na engines like the titanium valves while the turbo's don't.
 
Austin,

Just a side note...if you do go turbo, do you plan to run it a the dragstrip? If so, and you wanna run good #'s, then you will be spending $$$ on a multi-stage clutch AND spending a good deal of time(much of it burning clutches and being frustrated) dialing it in. Turbos make killer power and HP per $$$ spent is prolly the best you can get. However, if you wanna dragrace they are one of the hardest to get out of the hole. There are those that have had a mostly stk clutch setup(or even a single stage lockup) that have been able to run good #'s at the track, but they are far and few between. Just something to keep in mind.
 
wow :thumbsup:, what cc does that equate to? 1500+? I would imagine that would pretty well kill the daily driver thing for me, :rofl: Until I can get a second busa in the stable I'm gonna try to keep this one fairly tame.

All it takes is money, lol.

Btw, Canaan is still 1/8th, which is ok, it's better than the track Lubbock has had for the last few years....none. They are waiting to get an electrician to come out and check all the wiring for 1/4 supposedly. 1/8th, 1/4, either way I'm still working on the leave which is all done well before the 1/8th is up.
 
That's awesome :thumbsup:

Man, 1623, that's shameful compared to 1634....NOT, lol. Your an lsr guy commuta, what mph you turn in a mile with that setup? You drag too?
 
no dag the bike is setup for the mile only. The last time out was only 213 foot shifting and bouncing off the limiter. :laugh: I'll have to see what happens in June & July this year. :thumbsup:
r1d3on3 said:
That's awesome :thumbsup:

Man, 1623, that's shameful compared to 1634....NOT, lol. Your an lsr guy commuta, what mph you turn in a mile with that setup? You drag too?
Click to expand...
 
Nice, I'm hoping to make the October Texas Mile and get 200 this outing, Very reasonable to shoot for with some MR12 and a good day. I'd like to come up with a bike dedicated to racing and look into turbo for future lsr & drag.

So I'm really thinking hard about headwork. Port, cams, larger titanium valves and just keeping this bike for a daily driver. Buying another bike for race only on down the road to get as radical with as I want.

I'm wanting the bike to be streetable and plan on putting many miles to come on it. Got a couple questions in that respect...

What lift cams reasonable for the street?
Is it possible to pick the compression up a little and still be able to run 90 octane pump gas and better? Sometimes I don't have access to anything rated higher than 90.
 
Making a bike double or in your case tripple duty is tough. It's lik alot of things if you want more in one spot you loose out some where else. If you really have the bug I would for sure say go build something specific to your itch and leave the street bike alone.

You'll have fun at Texas. It's always great to be able to really pin the throttle and go without any concerns. A simple street bike is a hell of fun and you can woof on it all day long without issues. As soon as you start tweeking things is when thing get hairy.

I used to use my bike for double duty and it was a real limiter and pain. For each race I had to drop the bike, change sprockets, adjust wheelbase, adjust suspension, play with this and change that... and after the race undo it all again.

With a dedicated bike you can just make the call, race gas only. That alone is a good starting point for the tune. Then you can bump the CR up, go with bigger cmas and springs. High spring pressure on a street run bike will mean more frequent rebuilds than on a dedicated race bike.

Save your money more the radical race bike. You can dump thousands and thousands into this kind of project. In the mean time you can cruise around on your steet bike and still have fun with it at the track.
just my 0.02 :beerchug:
 
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