Can throttle bodies be synced without SDS-2?

I got a response from Healtech this morning. I'm very happy they took the time to write me back.

"Thanks for contacting us.

Our eSync Tool won't lock the ISC, unfortunately. You need to do that with an OBD, SDS 2 tool.

If you would like to check the engine condition and the pressure values of the cylinders, the eSync Tool will be the perfect product, please learn more about it here:
https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/est/

Regarding your OBD inquiry, our OBD Suzuki tool is not compatible with the 2022 model year of the Hayabusa, but we plan to update/revise the complete OBD tool line in 2022 and that is when new brands/models will be supported. Currently we don’t have an ETA yet.
This will be a new hardware (the current generation cannot be updated) with many new features like wireless connection and mobile device compatibility.

Please follow our website and social media accounts for the latest product releases.


Should you have any further questions or comments please feel free to contact us again."

The way I'm looking at this with the info I have at hand currently:

1) Use esync to at least determine how far off your TB's may or may not be.

2)With these findings, determine if you want to attempt making changes without being able to lock or relearn ISC, or unfortunately take it to the dealer and pay up.

3) Visit the planet Unobtanium and acquire SDS-2.
I received the same reply from Healtech. That's why getting something to lock the ISC is a necessity. There was a company that made one for the GEN two, but they don't make it anymore.

If you can find someone on eBay that is selling one, it would probably work with our bike.

I put in an inquiry to Woolich, and maybe they have an idea.

I also put in an inquiry into our resident genius Greg.
 
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The service manual does state how to do it, and it is the same procedure as any other throttle sync, minus one big step... Using the SDS tool to lock the ISC. I'll post the page from the manual when I get home.

20220423_100537.jpg
 
I did take the SDS two tool part number and plug it into a couple different websites and it is available. About $1000.
 
Take the SDS2 part number out of the 2022 repair manual, and plug it into partszilla search engine for $1000 it's yours. That's where I'm getting mine.
Would you happen to know if it comes with the required software? Guess $1k isn't much, averaged out over the long haul, especially considering the cost of shop visits.
 
Don't know for sure, I haven't researched it much but I'm planning. If I can't get around it, I'm gonna have to buy it. It's got to be software and interface.

Let me get out my generation three manual and read the procedure for syncing the throttles, if it plugs into the diagnostic coupler then it probably has that, and a USB connection. Then you just spin up the software and it reads the port.

once we got locking the ISC down, then of course you're gonna need a tuner. I've still got mercury tuners. They work great, so if you have a tuner of one sort or another I can send you guys the software disc and interface and you can borrow it and then just send it back.

One thing to remember, and it's listed in the manual as much as we've known this from the past the engine has to be at full running temperature. Thermostat open, closed loop, yada, yada, yada. Then it makes a much smoother end result. I did the same thing with my 2005, I always heated the motor up and once the fans started to cycle then I would start tuning. I could rough it into place while it warmed up but once it gets to full running temperature, and the fan starts cycling you know you've got the right temperature.
 
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This can be accomplished with the Woolich Racing package under diagnostics.

Connect to the bike, go to diagnostics and click the "ISC Fixed Volume On" option, make your adjustments, click the "ISC Fixed Volume Off" option and shut the bike off. Turn the bike back on, check for fault codes and clear them through the diagnostics menu if needed and that's it.
 
Anyone tried this yet? I asked Chris Moore when he did my flash tune over the web about it and he was very confident it was an un- necessary adjustment on a new bike. I am curious as to how far off they are though. Maybe when it gets colder and I dont have the time to ride alot I will tear the bike back apart for a few minor maintenance adjustments.
 
Anyone tried this yet? I asked Chris Moore when he did my flash tune over the web about it and he was very confident it was an un- necessary adjustment on a new bike. I am curious as to how far off they are though. Maybe when it gets colder and I dont have the time to ride alot I will tear the bike back apart for a few minor maintenance adjustments.

They won't be off very much.
 
Don't know for sure, I haven't researched it much but I'm planning. If I can't get around it, I'm gonna have to buy it. It's got to be software and interface.

Let me get out my generation three manual and read the procedure for syncing the throttles, if it plugs into the diagnostic coupler then it probably has that, and a USB connection. Then you just spin up the software and it reads the port.

once we got locking the ISC down, then of course you're gonna need a tuner. I've still got mercury tuners. They work great, so if you have a tuner of one sort or another I can send you guys the software disc and interface and you can borrow it and then just send it back.

One thing to remember, and it's listed in the manual as much as we've known this from the past the engine has to be at full running temperature. Thermostat open, closed loop, yada, yada, yada. Then it makes a much smoother end result. I did the same thing with my 2005, I always heated the motor up and once the fans started to cycle then I would start tuning. I could rough it into place while it warmed up but once it gets to full running temperature, and the fan starts cycling you know you've got the right temperature.
@Spudley Have you knocked the dust off the tools yet?
 
Well I have it hanging right over there on the edge of my shelf unit, I usually take the make shift hanger and hang it on the Jack handle. Then I just roll it around until I've got all the tubes hooked up and I sync the throttles.

If you'll notice above it has been noted that on the Woolwich tuning software they got permission or something to integrate the SDS2 diagnostic accessory package onto the Woolwich tuning software. You can lock the ISC and your generation three throttles should be just as easy to tune as a GEN one.

Run your vacuum manifold connections to the boost sensor, vacuum sensor. Then connect your four individual tubes to your 123 and 4 throttle sync tool. As long as you have vacuum signal, the bike will start and idle nicely. With the ISC locked you won't get ambiguous adjustments. Just line up your tuning numbers on the tool, and everything should be breathing smoothly. Then turn off the ISC lock and she'll go back to self mediated.

Small adjustments go a long way when you're watching the Mercury dance up and down.
 
Well, I decided to have a Suzuki mechanic sync my throttle bodies since I had the bike in for the master cylinder recall. I rode about 20 miles home and the bike seems to be smoother. I didn’t think the Hayabusa could get any smoother than it is, but I noticed improvements in throttle application at slow speed and accelerating out of a corner. Also noted a hint more smoothness in the upper rpm’s through the pegs and bars. I hope to purchase the woolich package one day and be able to sync myself, but so far I am satisfied with the end result.
 
Well, I decided to have a Suzuki mechanic sync my throttle bodies since I had the bike in for the master cylinder recall. I rode about 20 miles home and the bike seems to be smoother. I didn’t think the Hayabusa could get any smoother than it is, but I noticed improvements in throttle application at slow speed and accelerating out of a corner. Also noted a hint more smoothness in the upper rpm’s through the pegs and bars. I hope to purchase the woolich package one day and be able to sync myself, but so far I am satisfied with the end result.

A throttle body sync is basically once and done.
The factory sets them within spec, and then they usually can be dialed in closer.
And afterwards, you should not have to adjust them again, as they don't become out of sync with time or miles/use.
 
A throttle body sync is basically once and done.
The factory sets them within spec, and then they usually can be dialed in closer.
And afterwards, you should not have to adjust them again, as they don't become out of sync with time or miles/use.
So im going to go out on a limb and say covid quality control has been total crap. So the amount that I trust stuff is very low.....
 
The sound of these big bore motors at idle when the throttle bodies are dialed in not just within spec is like listening to a symphony :drool:

I’ve never done it on a stock motor, but on my 1441 I had it made a noticeable difference around town cruising.
 
The sound of these big bore motors at idle when the throttle bodies are dialed in not just within spec is like listening to a symphony :drool:

I’ve never done it on a stock motor, but on my 1441 I had it made a noticeable difference around town cruising.

+1
I've synced several over the years, and you can always hear the difference as soon as they become balanced.
 
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