Can throttle bodies be synced without SDS-2?

Mayhemlv

Registered
Has anyone here synced gen 3 throttle bodies without the SDS-2? What is the best way for us diy maintenance owners to effectively sync at home?
 
@Mayhemlv

for sure

the sds is in no way necessary (till gen2) as far as i understand it, (for gen3 no clue)
because the synchronization is usually alone a mechanical activity.

only the vacuum between the throttle valve and the cylinder in the rubber sleeve (or on the throttle housing at a spec. "nippel", closed with rubber caps) is measured

and then adjusted the throttle flaps against each other with three adjusting screws,
that the negative pressures are adjusted to each other except for the slightest deviations.
All this takes place with the engine running at slightly higher speeds - around 1500 rpm on the Busa
For a better understanding, take a look at the manual for the gen1 - it's described quite well there.

you can even build such a synchrometer yourself - see here on my homepage
or you can buy the tool ready made (carbtune)

also very important - you should be very sensitive, because synchronizing usually only requires the slightest turn of the screwdriver ;)
 
This HealTech eSync Tool is also for Gen3
EST_flyer_1_web.jpg
EST_flyer_2_web.jpg
Install and Use picture on Gixxer
 
Sounds the business.
Would be interesting to see if can improve the balance on a new stock engine.
Almost always.
Not nesacerily a performance increase either, just that usually throttle bodies can be synced closer than the factory says is acceptable.
If they are out, as you adjust them back into spec, you will hear a slight change in how the idle sounds.
 
Marty is right on. For those not experienced, it's a tone that you will hear at the exhaust tip, and it's a tone you will tune to indefinitely with this engine.

When all four manifold pressures are very close, and your mercury gauge, your electronic tuner, shows them to be flowing evenly, the motor is breathing correctly. Not just within factory specifications, closer.

The gauges will display the data, your ear will identify it, your throttle will be smoother than factory. Much smoother.

This adjustment will not increase horsepower, but performance overall will be improved dramatically. You'll hear it, you'll feel it. :thumbsup:

PS For those of you that learn to do this, don't forget to blip the throttle lightly between adjustments. Just so the plates settle into their new static position, and the measured volumes on your measuring device adjust displaying correct measurement.

Important: With those of you using a mercury tuner rather than an electronic measurement tool, please do not rap the throttle to high rpm with the tuner attached.
 
I have an old 4 tube Motion-Pro, but the fluid is in unsealed tubes like the old mercury type, and could be sucked out.
I bought a 4 tube Carb-Tune mechanical manometer a few years ago, and it works very well(and the tubes are sealed).
They make a digital version too, and I'll buy one eventually, out of curiosity/comparison, to see if it's any more precise or quicker to adjust with.
This is my Carb-Tune

20210517_162826.jpg
 
I had never considered balancing the throttle bodies on a new bike. Seems now I will make it a habit.
Marty is right on. For those not experienced, it's a tone that you will hear at the exhaust tip, and it's a tone you will tune to indefinitely with this engine.

When all four manifold pressures are very close, and your mercury gauge, your electronic tuner, shows them to be flowing evenly, the motor is breathing correctly. Not just within factory specifications, closer.

The gauges will display the data, your ear will identify it, your throttle will be smoother than factory. Much smoother.

This adjustment will not increase horsepower, but performance overall will be improved dramatically. You'll hear it, you'll feel it. :thumbsup:

PS For those of you that learn to do this, don't forget to blip the throttle lightly between adjustments. Just so the plates settle into their new static position, and the measured volumes on your measuring device adjust displaying correct measurement.

Important: With those of you using a mercury tuner rather than an electronic measurement tool, please do not rap the throttle to high rpm with the tuner attached.
 
I did it first on my Gen I very early after purchase. A guy named Lamb told me what I needed, thus the contiuous obssession for absolute best-performance began.

It was initially an effort to rid myself of jumpy torque in gear. Then I realized when the throttles are evenly adjusted, the power delivery becomes very smooth and predictable. It has a smoothness that is very desirable.
 
I have an old 4 tube Motion-Pro, but the fluid is in unsealed tubes like the old mercury type, and could be sucked out.
I bought a 4 tube Carb-Tune mechanical manometer a few years ago, and it works very well(and the tubes are sealed).
They make a digital version too, and I'll buy one eventually, out of curiosity/comparison, to see if it's any more precise or quicker to adjust with.
This is my Carb-Tune

View attachment 1649402
I have that same carb tune that I bought for my srad and have used it on quite a few customers bike and works pretty well now I'm gonna have to look into the digital one and see what it's all about.
 
I got a response from Healtech this morning. I'm very happy they took the time to write me back.

"Thanks for contacting us.

Our eSync Tool won't lock the ISC, unfortunately. You need to do that with an OBD, SDS 2 tool.

If you would like to check the engine condition and the pressure values of the cylinders, the eSync Tool will be the perfect product, please learn more about it here:
https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/est/

Regarding your OBD inquiry, our OBD Suzuki tool is not compatible with the 2022 model year of the Hayabusa, but we plan to update/revise the complete OBD tool line in 2022 and that is when new brands/models will be supported. Currently we don’t have an ETA yet.
This will be a new hardware (the current generation cannot be updated) with many new features like wireless connection and mobile device compatibility.

Please follow our website and social media accounts for the latest product releases.


Should you have any further questions or comments please feel free to contact us again."

The way I'm looking at this with the info I have at hand currently:

1) Use esync to at least determine how far off your TB's may or may not be.

2)With these findings, determine if you want to attempt making changes without being able to lock or relearn ISC, or unfortunately take it to the dealer and pay up.

3) Visit the planet Unobtanium and acquire SDS-2.
 
Take the SDS2 part number out of the 2022 repair manual, and plug it into partszilla search engine for $1000 it's yours. That's where I'm getting mine.
 
Back
Top