Buy gen3 or gen2?

Nope,

He's gently pulling the opposite bar to the direction of the lean....the bike isn't doing that on it's own.

Learned that in two racing schools....and applied it for a couple years on the track...
Push inside the lean, pull outside the lean is the same difference. You seem to be saying that a racer at full lean in the Apex is never neutral on the bars. And that the front tire doesn't kick out on its own. Do I understand what you're saying? *let's just use the picture of Marquez
 
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@dcnblues

...Sorry for blabbing!
No worries, that's what these forums are for. But I'm not sure the Japanese Gymkhana guys are as determined to never use the clutch as you. After 15 minutes of playing in the parking lot my left hand is tired, I will admit. And at the very bottom of its engagement, and in first gear, the throttle is abrupt in anything short of millimeter adjustments. It's not a simple skill to learn.
 
No worries, that's what these forums are for. But I'm not sure the Japanese Gymkhana guys are as determined to never use the clutch as you. After 15 minutes of playing in the parking lot my left hand is tired, I will admit. And at the very bottom of its engagement, and in first gear, the throttle is abrupt in anything short of millimeter adjustments. It's not a simple skill to learn.
It is used elsewhere but not for sure quick tight turns, check that:
 
I took the Gen-3 out last week, I try and rotate my bikes, riding them regular is a lot better for them.

This morning it was going to be either the B-King or Gen-2.

I walked past the B-King, moved the Gen-2….. and took the Gen-3 out again.

Only a 265k (165 miles) round trip to town to get a pie and coffee, but I’m loving the Gen-3 with its new S22 190/55 rear.
 
Push inside the lean, pull outside the lean is the same difference. You seem to be saying that a racer at full lean in the Apex is never neutral on the bars. And that the front tire doesn't kick out on its own. Do I understand what you're saying? *let's just use the picture of Marquez
That's what I'm saying....

I could post several videos explaining counter-steering but you can research that as well....
 
@dcnblues the next time you are out riding, take a moment and find a good corner you can trust to be free of debris and sand and do some apexing through that corner,.

Go through once without counter steering and then go through while counter steering, you will find you go through much quicker while counter steering and I don't suggest you try going neutral on the bars expecting the front tire to naturally kick out in the opposite direction to the apex....

When counter steering the bike will naturally fall into the corner without any body input other than a slight push/pull on the bars....and I mean slight.
 
@dcnblues the next time you are out riding, take a moment and find a good corner you can trust to be free of debris and sand and do some apexing through that corner,.

Go through once without counter steering and then go through while counter steering, you will find you go through much quicker while counter steering and I don't suggest you try going neutral on the bars expecting the front tire to naturally kick out in the opposite direction to the apex....

When counter steering the bike will naturally fall into the corner without any body input other than a slight push/pull on the bars....and I mean slight.
Counter-steering is necessary to achieve full-lock quickly from start, since heavy bikes do successfully resist if one does only apply the muscle. Now, the hayabusa, as all sport bikes, has low handlebars, therefore if one approaches the shoulders to the handlebars (to keep elbows at a right angle to avoid interference with the self-rotation of it), one is bound to lose the lengthy lever of the upper-body extending upwards.
More force is also possible with the thighs being tight on the tank (use lower abs) by slightly hanging the upper body to the interior of the corner.
I now remember that doing slalom, I can immediately achieve full-lock without counter-steering, because the momentum with my body passing quickly from left to right, is enough to initially force full-lock before the engine starts straightening the bike, and this is a very welcome occurrence, since the next corner is to the opposite direction.
But in parking places or daily city traffic or limited visibility, one is bound to improvise and expect the unexpected, therefore, if there is a small time frame to perform a u-turn with the hayabusa, I see that ALL means are needed.
I guess that closed track techniques cannot be applied per se in daily riding, because the accompanying conditions of a race (rehearsals, visibility, concentration, rules) do not exist in public roads.
 
Counter-steering is necessary to achieve full-lock quickly from start, since heavy bikes do successfully resist if one does only apply the muscle. Now, the hayabusa, as all sport bikes, has low handlebars, therefore if one approaches the shoulders to the handlebars (to keep elbows at a right angle to avoid interference with the self-rotation of it), one is bound to lose the lengthy lever of the upper-body extending upwards.
More force is also possible with the thighs being tight on the tank (use lower abs) by slightly hanging the upper body to the interior of the corner.
I now remember that doing slalom, I can immediately achieve full-lock without counter-steering, because the momentum with my body passing quickly from left to right, is enough to initially force full-lock before the engine starts straightening the bike, and this is a very welcome occurrence, since the next corner is to the opposite direction.
But in parking places or daily city traffic or limited visibility, one is bound to improvise and expect the unexpected, therefore, if there is a small time frame to perform a u-turn with the hayabusa, I see that ALL means are needed.
I guess that closed track techniques cannot be applied per se in daily riding, because the accompanying conditions of a race (rehearsals, visibility, concentration, rules) do not exist in public roads.
Depending on the type of riding one will do, track riding techniques cross over...braking thresh holds, cornering at speed all benefit from what racing has taught. However riding aggressively on the streets has it's own perils as we all know.

Parking lots and slow maneuvering are entirely different animals and that's where patience and experience are important but even then there are always the unexpected-gravel, sand, a driver not paying attention, run away shopping carts, etc....

When I'm on the back roads, I use many riding techniques I've learned over the years to make the rider safer.
 
I really like the looks of the Gen 3 and would take one in a heart beat. But, the Gen2 busa is the only one I have ever ridden. I rode one during a demo days in 2016 at a dealership.
 
2017 Hayabusa
If you can afford a gen 3 as an addition to your stable, maybe it worth to wait until the 30th anniversary, then it will be a good investment when EV poop hits the fan on the bike market as well... Otherwise I don't see right away why a gen 2 owner should run to buy a gen 3. Yeah, maybe the look, with a nice color. (BTW - Quickshifter is nice. I see one thing over gen 2 and it is the T-800 brain to protect you. That is hands down a big plus.) It is just my thinking.

What is your thinking?

PS.:
For Hayabusa virgins I rather say:
8izffn.jpg
 
@dcnblues the next time you are out riding, take a moment and find a good corner you can trust to be free of debris and sand and do some apexing through that corner,.

Go through once without counter steering and then go through while counter steering, you will find you go through much quicker while counter steering and I don't suggest you try going neutral on the bars expecting the front tire to naturally kick out in the opposite direction to the apex....

When counter steering the bike will naturally fall into the corner without any body input other than a slight push/pull on the bars....and I mean slight.
We're in full agreement about counter steering. I'm not so sure it's not the only way to ride the Hayabusa. Got a friend with the big BMW 1200 adventure bike, and I am really hesitant to let him ride my gen 3. I had a guy who was a good rider take my original Katana (long, low, clip-ons) and ride it right into a mud puddle where he dumped it. I do think a lot of riders understand neither the theory or practice of countersteering. My buddy with the ZX12R's comment after riding my gen 1 was "my God how do you turn that thing?" Which confused me as I don't find the motorcycle hard to turn at all. Because I naturally countersteer.
We're disagreeing about the light touch and balance described in this Japanese style riding. What they are describing is letting the bike fall into the turn and once stable there, being totally neutral on steering inputs. That light touch will let the front tire point way towards the outside of the curve. But your hips and core have to be engaged enough that you are totally balanced without needing pressure on your hands. I don't think this comes naturally to lots of people including some racers. Greengrass and the Japanese YouTube clips describe it better than I can, but the simplest way would be to ask racers whether they are neutral in steering in the middle of the corner. My money would be that a majority or certainly the best ones would say yes, absolutely. The former AFM champ taught this to me at Sears Point, and I'm pretty sure I've heard Rossi describe the technique as well. You don't seem as though you agree (but the difference between us could be minute amounts of pressure leaned over on the track).
 
It is used elsewhere but not for sure quick tight turns, check that:
You're right. I don't understand it, but you're right. I think learning to balance a motorcycle through a locked turn without using the clutch is a feat of balance not unlike a wheelie. It just takes a lot of practice and commitment. Thank you for all your comments, I definitely feel like I'm learning.
 
@dcnblues the next time you are out riding, take a moment and find a good corner you can trust to be free of debris and sand and do some apexing through that corner,.

... I don't suggest you try going neutral on the bars expecting the front tire to naturally kick out in the opposite direction to the apex....
This is what I'm telling you, I do exactly that routinely. And I feel much more confident and feel much more grip from the front doing so.
* I'm also pretty certain it saved my life on one occasion: Big girl can lean | Gen 3 Busa Information
 
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Counter-steering is necessary to achieve full-lock quickly from start, since heavy bikes do successfully resist if one does only apply the muscle. Now, the hayabusa, as all sport bikes, has low handlebars, therefore if one approaches the shoulders to the handlebars (to keep elbows at a right angle to avoid interference with the self-rotation of it), one is bound to lose the lengthy lever of the upper-body extending upwards.
More force is also possible with the thighs being tight on the tank (use lower abs) by slightly hanging the upper body to the interior of the corner.
I now remember that doing slalom, I can immediately achieve full-lock without counter-steering, because the momentum with my body passing quickly from left to right, is enough to initially force full-
I guess that closed track techniques cannot be applied per se in daily riding, because the accompanying conditions of a race (rehearsals, visibility, concentration, rules) do not exist in public roads.
It's less about the difference between track and street than about the difference between fast in the curves and tight turns in a parking lot. We have two conversations going here.

If I am really going fast I can do so without putting any weight on the bars, but my ass is off the seat and all the weight is on the balls of my feet and the pegs. I'm thinking doing it your way might be even better and easier and that I need to keep my ass in the seat and get more pressure on the tank with my knees (coordinated with lifting the outside heel and lowering the inside one). I think the better you do this paradoxically the more you feel like a passenger as the bike is simply moving through the curve on its own almost.
 
If you can afford a gen 3 as an addition to your stable, maybe it worth to wait until the 30th anniversary, then it will be a good investment when EV poop hits the fan on the bike market as well... Otherwise I don't see right away why a gen 2 owner should run to buy a gen 3. Yeah, maybe the look, with a nice color. (BTW - Quickshifter is nice. I see one thing over gen 2 and it is the T-800 brain to protect you. That is hands down a big plus.) It is just my thinking.

What is your thinking?
I think we should keep an eye on Hayabusa sales. The electric world is coming for us all soon, and the second the Gen 3 is discontinued it's going to be a collector's item. This guy's YouTube channel had another great short where he described the value of getting aftermarket body work, putting it on a new bike, and saving the original plastic in mint condition. That would REALLY bump up the resale value. I like that advice, wish I'd thought of it earlier.
 
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