Brakes

[wreckwriter]

So, after taking a friend's advice and going for a ride I had to make a hard stop. I now realize that my brakes leave a lot to be desired. I need to do something about it.

Are all 2013 Hayabusa the same as far as brakes go? All have these Brembo calipers on the front?

As far as stainless lines, is Galfer the best? Is the install very difficult? I assume all the plastics have to come off?

What pads are you guys using for the street?

 

[pashnit]

Which line brand is best is subjective. They are all top quality lines, and braided lines are an immediate improvement over stock. You can also order the line color of your choice and even the banjo colors (the ends) can be special ordered. Your bike is 10 years old, which also means the stock rubber lines have had 10 years of heat cycles that wear on the stock rubber, and it's elasticity.

Start with the cheap stuff first: Stainless lines are inexpensive and easy to change, no need to remove panels. Watch some YT vids on how to change the lines & get a brake bleed kit, so you can do it yourself. Once you change brake lines to stainless steel, you'll wonder how you lived without them. The improvement over stock rubber is that dramatic.

Brake pad grip is based on how aggressive do you want to go? Most pads like Galfer HH pads are about $40 per rotor. EBC Extreme Pros are twice that at about $80 per (front) rotor and more aggressive. Do not put race pads on a bike used on the street. Go with at least a HH pad.

If you have lots of money to spend, then change out the master cylinder to Brembo or Accossato and/or rotors. Many of us have any number of brands of Wave rotors. You can easily spend $1000 on wave rotors.

 

[sixpack577]

Core-Moto and Spiegler make better lines than the competition, as their banjos can be rotated, which makes for a much cleaner install.
Lines improve lever feel, but will Not stop you any sooner. They do shorten lever travel, and remove the spongey feeling.
+1 on the EBC Extreme Pro pads, as they will noticeably stop you sooner.
I have had them on a gen2 and 1k's, and they are excellent.
Those 2 mods alone make a Big difference in braking, and are all you will really need for normal street riding.

 

[Bumblebee]

I have core moto lines, EBC HH sintered pads and EBC 5.5mm rotors (which weigh less than stock) along with a Brembo M/C

The updated M/C and line will put more pressure into the braking system and give more force to the pistons which apply more force to the pads. These updates along with good pads will stop you sooner and with more authority and much, much less brake fade especially if you intend to dial up your riding level and get aggressive.

 

[wreckwriter]

Thanks for the detailed replies! If I decide to do the master cylinder along with the lines and pads, what model should I look for? I would only be doing the front mc but lines and pads on both ends. MC will be dependent on the cost. I have a bit of "spare" money but not unlimited.

 

[sixpack577]

Cheapest Brembo MC will be around $400
3 Lines about $150
Extreme Pro front pads $200
Sintered or ceramic rear pads $40-$60, and there isn't really a high performance rear pad available, or needed.
Front rotors $300+ to much higher, each
Roughly, lol

 

[ottafish]

I started of my upgrade with a ex Yam R1 brembo m/c. Picked it up from EB@y for around $150Aud.
After deciding I liked the change, I went our and bought a Non OEM Brembo RCS19

 

[HayaWakened]

Even cheaper is to refresh the fluid and bleed, bleed, bleed

 

[Berlin Germany]

Even cheaper is to ... bleed, bleed, bleed

yep

@wreckwriter

but pay att. to the fender crossing hose - that ... thing works like an air collector - have a look at the gen3 - there they built it a better way

at the ´13-´20 (and at all others - before - with the fender crossing hose - too !!!) loosen the left caliper and hold it as high as possible for/while bleeding - only that way you can insure that all air can be pumped out.
then "strap" the caliper in that high position and "strap" the brake lever (zip tie) strong to the grip and leave it that way next 3-4 hours and bleed again.

and pls. ! - mount steel braided hoses - the rubber scrap , u still have , pump like a arteria in your arm or neck when feeling the heart pulse
will say
the rubber line stretches and the brake pressure on the caliper is lower (compared to the steel braided), what then leads to a lousy brake

 

[mabupa]

Which line brand is best is subjective. They are all top quality lines, and braided lines are an immediate improvement over stock. You can also order the line color of your choice and even the banjo colors (the ends) can be special ordered. Your bike is 10 years old, which also means the stock rubber lines have had 10 years of heat cycles that wear on the stock rubber, and it's elasticity.

Start with the cheap stuff first: Stainless lines are inexpensive and easy to change, no need to remove panels. Watch some YT vids on how to change the lines & get a brake bleed kit, so you can do it yourself. Once you change brake lines to stainless steel, you'll wonder how you lived without them. The improvement over stock rubber is that dramatic.

Brake pad grip is based on how aggressive do you want to go? Most pads like Galfer HH pads are about $40 per rotor. EBC Extreme Pros are twice that at about $80 per (front) rotor and more aggressive. Do not put race pads on a bike used on the street. Go with at least a HH pad.

If you have lots of money to spend, then change out the master cylinder to Brembo or Accossato and/or rotors. Many of us have any number of brands of Wave rotors. You can easily spend $1000 on wave rotors.

Tim has provided great advice on his post, so I’ll just add one thing……. DO NOT let brake fluid get on the paint or it’ll ruin it.

 

[mabupa]

Cheapest Brembo MC will be around $400
3 Lines about $150
Extreme Pro front pads $200
Sintered or ceramic rear pads $40-$60, and there isn't really a high performance rear pad available, or needed.
Front rotors $300+ to much higher, each
Roughly, lol

I eventually did all these and now run brembo master cylinder, braided lines, brembo calipers (older gen2 a don’t have them), extreme pro pads, and galfer rotors but, if I had to do it again, I would’ve done the master cylinder first and would’ve probably stopped there, since that was the most dramatic improvement I noticed.

 

[Bumblebee]

yep

@wreckwriter

but pay att. to the fender crossing hose - that ... thing works like an air collector - have a look at the gen3 - there they built it a better way

at the ´13-´20 (and at all others - before - with the fender crossing hose - too !!!) loosen the left caliper and hold it as high as possible for/while bleeding - only that way you can insure that all air can be pumped out.
then "strap" the caliper in that high position and "strap" the brake lever (zip tie) strong to the grip and leave it that way next 3-4 hours and bleed again.

and pls. ! - mount steel braided hoses - the rubber scrap , u still have , pump like a arteria in your arm or neck when feeling the heart pulse
will say
the rubber line stretches and the brake pressure on the caliper is lower (compared to the steel braided), what then leads to a lousy brake

My '09 doesn't have this hose...I thought it was because it has Brembo calipers......and aftermarket lines....

I checked my manual but it mustn't cover the 13 model as all the pictures show Tokico calipers....do the 13 bikes with Brembos have this cross over line?

 

[wreckwriter]

My '09 doesn't have this hose...I thought it was because it has Brembo calipers......and aftermarket lines....

I checked my manual but it mustn't cover the 13 model as all the pictures show Tokico calipers....do the 13 bikes with Brembos have this cross over line?

Yes

 

[wreckwriter]

Cheapest Brembo MC will be around $400
3 Lines about $150
Extreme Pro front pads $200
Sintered or ceramic rear pads $40-$60, and there isn't really a high performance rear pad available, or needed.
Front rotors $300+ to much higher, each
Roughly, lol

Which Brembo mc do I want?

 

[wreckwriter]

I eventually did all these and now run brembo master cylinder, braided lines, brembo calipers (older gen2 a don’t have them), extreme pro pads, and galfer rotors but, if I had to do it again, I would’ve done the master cylinder first and would’ve probably stopped there, since that was the most dramatic improvement I noticed.

Which mc do you have?

 

[Bumblebee]

Yes

So your bike has this cross over line?

I guess my aftermarket lines eliminated them..

Been too long.

 

[Bumblebee]

Which mc do you have?

I use an R1 OEM Brembo m/c

 

[fallenarch]

Remember that no brake upgrade will give you the full impact without a properly adjusted suspension system. When you grab a hand full, the bike should not bottom the forks, they should "settle" progressively as the brakes are applied. People tend to look at braking performance in terms of all-out stopping power. In reality, this is the least amount of time you are using the brakes on the street. Mostly it's trail braking, correcting the attitude of the bike, or scrubbing off a little speed for that next turn. So the brake/suspension synergy is critical.

I'm not saying you need to get Ohlins, just that what you have needs to be set up properly and maintained.

 

[wreckwriter]

I use an R1 OEM Brembo m/c

R1 as in Yamaha? Does it bolt right on?

 

[wreckwriter]

Remember that no brake upgrade will give you the full impact without a properly adjusted suspension system. When you grab a hand full, the bike should not bottom the forks, they should "settle" progressively as the brakes are applied. People tend to look at braking performance in terms of all-out stopping power. In reality, this is the least amount of time you are using the brakes on the street. Mostly it's trail braking, correcting the attitude of the bike, or scrubbing off a little speed for that next turn. So the brake/suspension synergy is critical.

I'm not saying you need to get Ohlins, just that what you have needs to be set up properly and maintained.

My suspension is set up pretty well I believe