Anyone Using the New EK 530Z 3D Chain?

So the zvx3 is this chain right?

They also offer a screw master link. Is this any better or worse than a rivet?
 
So the zvx3 is this chain right?

They also offer a screw master link. Is this any better or worse than a rivet?
I have used the screw master link , it is in the first picture , the blacked out pivot pins , and I like it . Yes that is the chain , special colors , black and gold in my case for both bikes .
That swingarm isn't the stocker , the axle sliders came with that arm bro .
 
I have used the screw master link , it is in the first picture , the blacked out pivot pins , and I like it . Yes that is the chain , special colors , black and gold in my case for both bikes .
That swingarm isn't the stocker , the axle sliders came with that arm bro .
Hi. Very very nice looks boss. As you know I went with the Ti chain It has a 12700 rating. It is not good for high HP drags but should work real good for LSR and street. I hope I made the right choice!
 
Well , I chose the zvx-3 for both my bikes 'cos I like the details' , the strength is going to always be fine with standard ish horse power my machines make .
Here is that pic of the Busa chain setup .... again ... hahahahView attachment 1607117

View attachment 1607119
That is one purdy chain. Looks mostly black which I would like for my busa. The black D3 has gold inner links which is a bit more flashy.

EK.3D.black.png
 
I have used the screw master link , it is in the first picture , the blacked out pivot pins , and I like it .
You mean the master link with the threaded pins that are each fastened by a nut?

I was advised to stay away from that for safety reason but if it worked for you I may try it. I think I riveted my last chain a hair too tightly. That was 9 years ago and I still see that one link has a slight kink in it every time it's on the top or bottom run.
 
Yes , the nuts are used just to seat the plate , then , once seated , you back the nuts off and remove them , then grab a good set of pliers and snap off the extra shaft length . I then file off the remaining stubs down a but .
I do know a lot of people are skeptical , and will continue to use the tried and true rivet link , but I thought I'd give it a go . Been great so far , haven't had any trouble with the Busa , often tested using full power in 3rd and 4th gear .
I think EK are not going to let this product out on the market if there are any real / potential trouble , especially the US market where a company can easily face costly legal action against their products .
Having said that , I would still use a rivet link if I was running a big HP bike .
1607168
 
I think EK are not going to let this product out on the market if there are any real / potential trouble , especially the US market where a company can easily face costly legal action against their products .
The master link with nuts I had looked into about 7 years back was held on by the nuts and you only removed the nuts if you wanted to remove the chain to clean or change sprocket gearing. It was considered safer for off-road bikes than sport bikes. The nuts were what held the chain together though.

Yes I agree, if it was not safe for big bore sport bikes, they would not be selling it.


then grab a good set of pliers and snap off the extra shaft length . I then file off the remaining stubs down a but .
Sounds like the pins are pressure fit very tightly. Nothing holding the pins in on the outside of the plates though?? Why not leave the nuts on for extra safety?
 
Because EK has designed them to be removed (the nuts ) , then the excess shaft is designed to snap off , where the threads separate on the shaft . Those nuts actually force the last threaded section of shaft to compress on the last bit of thread and actually rivets the ends of the shaft pins , just like a rivet link . You would not want the nuts to remain on the pins / link , they are 10mm long . This is a new design from EK , only recently available .
 
Because EK has designed them to be removed (the nuts ) , then the excess shaft is designed to snap off , where the threads separate on the shaft . Those nuts actually force the last threaded section of shaft to compress on the last bit of thread and actually rivets the ends of the shaft pins , just like a rivet link . You would not want the nuts to remain on the pins / link , they are 10mm long . This is a new design from EK , only recently available .
Sounds like a great system to me...I know what I am getting if and when I have to change out my chain.
 
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Those nuts actually force the last threaded section of shaft to compress on the last bit of thread and actually rivets the ends of the shaft pins , just like a rivet link .
...and here I thought I was set for life buying the $200 EK chain tool! I guess I know why they have reduced the price.


on 600 hp bikes, the 3d chain wears out in no time, even though it looks better on paper

Why do you suppose that is? Perhaps the 3D stretches easier than the ZVX-3 even if the 3D has a higher tensile strength.
 
...and here I thought I was set for life buying the $200 EK chain tool! I guess I know why they have reduced the price.

I would not use this EK link on any other chain , I tried it out and like it because it is so easy to install , so will use it while I run this EK . I got a DID KM500R , and also a HD breaker ready for any chain I choose , and unless other manufacturers follow suit , I am happy to also use the conventional rivet link . I do like that EK chain tool , don't reckon I have seen that exact one before . A good chain breaker set , is always a very good investment imho .
 
no and no
i run the clip style AND ADD SAFETY WIRE
or use the rivet links and make sure i measure the amount that it flares them with calipers. i like at least 20 thou
Hi KZScott. This is about the heat rap fuel lines. You run LSR do you need to rap the fuel lines with a flame retardent like Earls Flame Guard Insolation?
 
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