6'4 And 375 To Busa Or Not To Busa

Busa is great for big guys , as Arch said "On an HD it is about the social experience of the open road " Most bike nights HD owners will not give you the time of day no matter what it is your on if not a HD . No one talked to me the other night when I road in on my other bike
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I'm 250-270#, but ride with loaded luggage on trips whenever I can. I'm 6'4" and I've done the lowered Buell pegs (for a little more leg room) and the ABM LSL handle bar which rises and rearsets the handlebars a LOT. More than anything, sportbike riding take a month or so of riding for your body to accommodate to the position, building slow twitch muscle, and then you're used to it. :muscle:

If you never changed the handlebars and just 'rode through it' for a month, you'd be conditioned for the position and wouldn't have complaints anymore. It seems to me that people, almost universally and regardless of the sport/sport touring bike, complain about the position when they first get the bike and buy heli-bars and gen mar bar risers etc, when all they have to do is give it some time to get used to it. I don't practice what I preach, obviously, I like the more upright seating position that I have, but I also added a MRA Vario windscreen (and need to get another touring windscreen instead of the ZG regular screen I have) to help deflect the air up higher. I mounted that on my DR650 for the trip I took above with my Uncle, the 'Busa in clean air was actually more pleasant and quiet to ride than the DR with the big windscreen.

The 'Busa won't care what you weigh. It's like riding a rocket sled, it will accelerate you faster than you'd believe! Probably only real 'needed' upgrade would be a rear shock built for you.

Forgive the cheap rain suit I had to buy on this trip (I've replaced it with a Roadcrafter) - my other suit failed mid trip and ended up in a dumpster. This one made it almost 1000 miles, and suffered the same fate...

Just my 2 cents:thumbsup:
 
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I rode my Busa stock for 3 years without too many complaints on the suspension. But there were some things that I felt very uncomfortable with like hard braking and fast corner turn ins. I had a racer friend adjust the suspension as best he could but he ram out of compression damping adjustment pretty quick. One day on the interstate a car stopped in front of me. I wrestled the bike for what seemed like minutes. first the front end dived and bottomed the forks, then the rear wheel was bobbing on and off the ground, then the chirping of the front end locking. It was clear I was going to hit the car in front of me so I aimed to the left of the car which required letting off the brakes a bit. Onced it was aimed right I grabbed a hand full at as soon as I did I was sliding along the road. Luckily I was probably only doing 30 mph by this time and there was little damage to the bike. But I kept thinking about that and feeling like me not seeing the car stop was my fault but this fall was not pilot error.

So I upgraded to Ohlins front and rear. I'm not saying you need Ohlins but you do need the bike's suspension working is it's effective range to be safe on the street. Heavy spring are a start and they will get the bike to hit it's proper sag. But if the springs are too strong they will overwhelm the damping, so I recommend springs and dampener changes. The suspension should be working in the middle of its range normally - this allows adjustments for additional loads or faster riding like going to the track. The first thing you will notice with proper suspension is better braking. The bike won't nose dive every time you touch the lever and you can steer when braking hard. Its a bit hard to explain but you sort of feel a firmness to brake against, as opposed to the floppy squishy feel of bad suspenders. Next is the bike is level. When you roll on the gas in a turn the bike stays level rather than the sea-saw motion you get with bad suspension. Putting power down in a straight line is the same as braking on the front, the bike feels firm, like it's pushing down on the ground. Finally there is the obvious - the bike settles down after a bump immediately. Riding the street there are going to be bumps in the road that upset the bike. The difference between a pucker moment and a potential crash is how fast the bike recovers from the bump. With good suspension it is over as soon as the bike reacts to the bump. Bad suspension or improperly setup suspension continues to bob and weave well after the bump increasing the time you are out of control.

The Busa is an amazing bike but Suzuki could have really helped it if they had upgraded the brakes and suspension rather than just changing the color every year. They could have at least just put GSXR1000 brakes on it long ago. These weaknesses are magnified by heavier riders. I think the load rating on a Busa is huge, like 550 lbs? But Suzuki didn't plan to have 350+ sitting right over the front wheel. This is critical for heavier guys like me to understand. When you get the bike properly setup, you will be shocked at the risk you were riding with on the stock feet.
 
fallenarch - I remembered that you'd upgraded your suspension - what did that whole package cost you, and where (what site) would you recommend a start when shopping around?

I took WAY too long to upgrade the suspension on my DR - I grew up on bikes and can pretty much ride anything, but I know I can ride it a lot faster and more safely with the suspension upgrades I made on that bike - I'm sure the 'Busa would be the same story. The biggest change was when I dropped in Ricor Intiminators (inertia valve) and changed the oil weight on that bike. No nose dive when braking, and soaks up the bumps perfectly. I liked it so much I just ordered the Ricor shock.

I know the 'Busa suspension is going to cost more, but if the difference is as drastic as it was on my other bike, I'm going to do it. I recently attended the "Texas Redneck Ramble" dual sport ride, and the night before they had a suspension set up class and a speaker that came in talking about suspension and he made a VERY good point. He said a lot of guys ride their bikes for a few years, finally pay for good suspension, then sell the bike a year or two later. He said - "buy the suspension first, and enjoy it the whole time you ride the bike". It was one of those "duh" moments for me. Why hadn't I done that??

I'm sure you've posted before on your suspension upgrades, I'll see if I can find the link. I'm sure the OP would appreciate it.
 
I got my Ohlins from Pashnit for a little over $3k if I remember. I recommend giving him a call. He is a good dude and takes special care of us org people. They come set for your weight but get an expert to set them up (a real expert, like an Ohlins certified one). This is another $100-$200 but OMG what a difference! You will understand why race teams spend days setting the bike up for a race. Again Ohlins are not the only option or even necessary. A spring and valve kit might do the trick. Also the Penske stuff is great, as well as several others.

Be aware that suspension has zero resale value on a Busa, so keep the stock stuff so you can ebay the parts if you sell.
 
Also, if you feel comfortable on your bike and slow down to your comfort zone you are doing it properly. Great riders are not more fearless, they have done the work to increase their comfort zone. There are 2 ways to increase your comfort zone. One is to increase your skill, which is where I recommend you start. The second is better equipment. There are people who could ride a stock Busa and one with Ohlins and not no the difference. There are also people who can ride circles around you on a tricycle. Lesson there is if going faster is your goal investing in skill is the best option. Tracks are the safest place for you and your bike to learn correctly.
 
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