2003 Loss Of Power At 5500 Rpm

[David Offor]

I think this should cover yours, make sure you connect the vtv round the right way, it's a one way valve, I believe orange part towards the front of the bike.

 

[Valingt]

mine has a intank pump. think this is for a 99-00

some of the other pics from the thread "where does this hose go" shows it going to the black can. there is a thing with 2 out put things and im missing where one of them goes. also i dont really know where the single one goes.

maybe ill try to get a pic of the area and see if that helps.

 

[David Offor]

Ahahaha, in that case, All you need to do is blank of the vacuum hose that 'T's off from the maf sensor, which goes to the 'out of tank pump' regulator, I believe everything else is the same, I converted my 'out of tank set up', to an 'in tank set up', runs great, now that I found my faulty ckps.

 

[Valingt]

ya its kinda odd seems to not run as well as before i did the fuel filter mod. then again i might not have all the vacum lines in the right spot. still putting the c24 and c27 codes out. need to get a new cam sensor and go from there. i ordered a book today so maybe that will help. im going to hold off on doing much till it gets here.

 

[David Offor]

ok so i took it to a shop and we swapped coils, injectors, and still having the same issue. got to playing around in the shop and put it on the stand. when its got no load it will rev out in gear any gear. under load at 5k its like it hits a wall. if i hold it wide open i can get to 6500rpms but its like the fuel is getting shut off. im at a total loss right now and need some thing to look into any help would be nice.

Just read this one again, have you tried a different or new fuel pump relay? They do become faulty.

 

[Valingt]

Just read this one again, have you tried a different or new fuel pump relay? They do become faulty.

relay?????? where at

i got the book ill see if i can find it in there.

 

[David Offor]

It's located next to the fuses, under the left hand plastic infill panel, next to the clock cluster, it's a black one.

 

[Valingt]

Ok so I put it all back together and took it to 5500 rpms and it put the codes out and started spitting and sputtering. Relay is good by he way I by passed it for a min.

 

[David Offor]

Was the ckps/stator you tried definitely ok, was it new?
The ckps controls when the spark happens, so if it's out of sync or a poor spark, it would explain your symptoms.
Can you confirm your injectors are ok?
Have you performed a leakdown test? To eliminate possible valve problems?
I tied myself in knots with the problems on my bike, got lost in all the things I tried.
Eliminate all the possible mechanical items, that could cause your symptoms, eliminate possible fuel problems, then eliminate possible sensor problems, methodically go through a check sheet.
You are overlooking something, just don't presume about anything being ok, I presumed on mine and it cost me a lot of time and headaches.

 

[Valingt]

ya i have been messing with it today and i took it to 5500k. found out that when the codes kick on the out side cylinders are not hitting all the time. the inside to where red the outside 2 where normal.

hay david can i ask a big favor and get a check list form you. starting with what you think i should check first. do note that the ckps/stator came from a good running bike and mine went in his and worked good.but im not ruleing it out.

i did unplug the cam sensor when it was running and that didnt change anything. i got some pics of the vac hoses just dont have a way to mark them up with arrows.

can my pipes be red hot and the fan not kick on?

so i have so far put in new.

plugs the stock ones gaped right and all.
did a oil change the stock stuff.
i bypassed my kickstand.
looked at the air filter and its clean and looks new to me.

ill try and do a compression test soon. if i can find all of my stuff.
i have moved the coils around and nothing has changed. still the same 2 not playing nice.

guys i cant thank all of you in the amount i wish i could. its nice to know im not alone in all of this. im hoping that one day this thread will help others in there fight.

 

[jermzfree]

I see Boosted cycle performance is in your area. I bet they know Hayabusas inside out and back again. Probably could find the issue without a ton of diagnostics. Just food for thought if you are with this problem. If you are like me and see this as a great learning experience then

 

[Valingt]

ya im kinda tarded and like to find what stuff is on my own. some times i win and its cheap and other times i spend lots of money to find nothing.

thing is this is my first busa and im in love with the bike. so ill find what the problem is and know how to fix it if i ever have it happen again. dont care what the cost are. just might take me time to get the money up.

 

[David Offor]

Hi Valingt.
I'm happy to offer a path that I'd personally consider 'methodical' but I hope others will chime in too, as there's always more than one way to approach a problem and I'd focus on all the components, that could cause your symptoms (to the best of my knowelge).

Check engine timing
Leak down test
Compression test
Fuel pressure test, priming, cranking and at high rpm
Test injectors
Set tps correctly
Sync throttlebodies


After these initial tests the next steps will be checking your electrics and sensors, relays, wiring loom, ecu etc. You said you've changed the ckps with no change, you said that you've bypassed the fuel pump relay, its a tricky one. I've heard about side stand switches giving problems.
Like 'jermzfree' said, if you have a good local shop, it's probably worth picking their brains for info, rather than chasing your tail.

 

[jermzfree]

Hi Valingt.
I'm happy to offer a path that I'd personally consider 'methodical' but I hope others will chime in too, as there's always more than one way to approach a problem and I'd focus on all the components, that could cause your symptoms (to the best of my knowelge).

Check engine timing
Leak down test
Compression test
Fuel pressure test, priming, cranking and at high rpm
Test injectors
Set tps correctly
Sync throttlebodies


After these initial tests the next steps will be checking your electrics and sensors, relays, wiring loom, ecu etc. You said you've changed the ckps with no change, you said that you've bypassed the fuel pump relay, its a tricky one. I've heard about side stand switches giving problems.
Like 'jermzfree' said, if you have a good local shop, it's probably worth picking their brains for info, rather than chasing your tail.

Can't agree more. Approach the issue like a pro mechanic THOROUGHLY eliminating one variable at a time, presumably starting with the easiest and working down the list. I would obsessively jump around from one thing to the next with my first bike that I was soooooooo in love with. Not saying you are doing that lol. Keep us posted!

 

[Valingt]

ok so after trying a good ecu i have cracked and im taking it to a friend of mine that owns a shop. let him play with it and see what he can do. when i find out what it is i will let yall know.

 

[Valingt]

ok my compression is at 140psi with no leak down im guessing i need to redo the top end. what do yall think?

 

[David Offor]

Are all the compressions the same or similar? If you have all similar readings and no leakage on the leak down test, imo, a topend strip down won't help you, unless you have a blown head gasket, can you do a test gota blown headgasket?

 

[Valingt]

Are all the compressions the same or similar? If you have all similar readings and no leakage on the leak down test, imo, a topend strip down won't help you, unless you have a blown head gasket, can you do a test gota blown headgasket?

if they are then what do you think it would be? i know i need more then 140 psi book calls for 170+ up to 220's. also says 128psi is the lowest that it should be before its blown. thats only 12psi off.
would the cams make me have bad psi? the timing is 100% on the money. there is one small nick on the #1 coil wire think that could be it?

 

[Valingt]

ok so today i found out that my valves are not shimed right. me and the bro are going to shim them and see if the psi comes up. he said i did the test wrong and im only at 90. i keep going till i got a max he did 2 revs. not much but so far its what i got.

 

[David Offor]

90 psi is terrible, I'm around 170, on mine, it would be useful if you could try another compression tester, just for a comparison reading, I crank for about 4-5 revs, with a fully charged battery and holding the throttle open (it makes a big difference, holding the throttle open), wrong shims could cause low compressions but for them to be so far out is worrying, it would mean that they are not staying closed long enough but if your leak down test is good, it means that you at least have sealed combustion chambers (no bent valves, no broken rings and no majorly failed head gasket).
I hope you can avoid disturbing the engine and it only needs reshiming, be interesting to see the difference, once you've reshimed, there are two locating crescents that sit in grooves under the timing chain end of each camshaft, if you haven't done this job before, have a mind about them, when removing and refitting the camshafts, that they are located properly.
Good luck, hope it sorts out your problem.