06 Busa 2nd Gear Undercutting

[Kosz216]

So I think I've found the problem with my bike. I believe 2nd gear is slipping/going out, rather than it being a tuning issue because it only bucks when under load and/or lots of throttle in 2nd. It doesn't slip into neutral, just stays in second but stumbles quite a few times from about 6k-redline. I need to know where to have it undercut and for how much. Furthermore, instructions on taking it out and whether or not I should just have the whole transmission sent in for undercutting. Living in KC Area if that helps with picking somewhere close or not.
Thanks.

 

[dadofthree]

Alright PM gixerhp, he should be able to tell you what's needed and about how much. You need to be absolutely sure second gear is bad because the casings have to be split to get to second gear. Lots of money.

 

[brad]

I'm experiencing the same exact symptoms on my 02', started about 35000 miles. Have not decided what I'm going to do about it. What is it worth selling her with this condition? It's a split the cases fix no mater how you slice it or dice it.

 

[jch364]

mine did the same thing along with first gear. i had the gears replaced with stock. did not undercut. i also discovered when it was torn apart that the shift rod was bent. the stock on a g1 is hollow. it was slight but when you rolled it across a table you could see it. this will make shifting more difficult as well. i had it replaced with a brock shift rod that is solid. no way i will bend that sucker so when you get into the transmission dont forget to look at that. if you are having slipping problems you might also have a bent shift rod too. worth replacing since its right in front of you

 

[icemansid]

Its not very hard to do your self (removal) with simple shop tools and a manual. get the tools, drop the motor, split the case, send the tranny to Robinison Industries in NY. I think quite a few shops send their trannys to him. He is awesome to work with. Call before you ship because i think they just moved their shop.

While your are in there, replace the shift fork shafts and possibly a shift fork or 2. There is probably no need to replace the 5/6 one but the 1/2 and the 3/4 get beat up pretty bad. Also pick up some new shift shaft retaining screws from Scott over @ gofastbikeparts.com. Trust me - they are worth it! Also wouldnt hurt to pick up an oil pan baffle - yeah i know its probably not a race bike but who doesnt like just a bit of engine insurance..

Suzuki Hayabusa Shift Drum retaining screw UPGRADE ? Go Fast Bike Parts

 

[GoldenChild]

You can drop the motor or send whole bike here and we will do it right and return it.. Don't cut corners on it since your in there if you planning to keep bike..

 

[GoldenChild]

I'm experiencing the same exact symptoms on my 02', started about 35000 miles. Have not decided what I'm going to do about it. What is it worth selling her with this condition? It's a split the cases fix no mater how you slice it or dice it.

It depends on shape of rest of bike, send me pics and asking price usually pick a few up if we can meet.. cloudninemotorsports@comcast.net

 

[TonezEnt]

I'm having the same problem. 2nd gear going out as well as other gears dropping to neutral. I replaced the clutch and that solved the bike dropping back to neutral but I still have a 2nd gear slip. I want to keep my bike but would it make more sense to undercut or to replace the tranny? A guy at my local shop in Phoenix,AZ told me I would also want to replace 5th gear as well since there is a mechanism that is used somewhere in the bike to shift. Is that even accurate?

 

[icemansid]

I'm having the same problem. 2nd gear going out as well as other gears dropping to neutral. I replaced the clutch and that solved the bike dropping back to neutral but I still have a 2nd gear slip. I want to keep my bike but would it make more sense to undercut or to replace the tranny? A guy at my local shop in Phoenix,AZ told me I would also want to replace 5th gear as well since there is a mechanism that is used somewhere in the bike to shift. Is that even accurate?

Just send it off for undercutting. a replacement tranny may have or eventually will have the same issue. I dont know about any 5th gear issues though.. same rules apply - replace shift forks and shafts and any other goodies while you have the case open.

 

[GsxrBots]

I have a "false neutral" that I'll get between 5th and 6th on my Gen2. It's been there since new. Only if I'm super lazy about shifting. Some oils make it worse than others. Hoping it doesn't explode the tranny someday.

 

[icemansid]

I have a "false neutral" that I'll get between 5th and 6th on my Gen2. It's been there since new. Only if I'm super lazy about shifting. Some oils make it worse than others. Hoping it doesn't explode the tranny someday.

Shift drum have a bad spot in it causing it to stick? been thinking about getting the heavier detent spring from MPS on the drag bike

 

[mike04busa]

Did mine. Bike had 8K on it. Prev. owner beat the crap out of the bike I guess. It was about 6-700 in parts. Pull the engine. prop it upside down. Do so with out breaking any sensors off of the head. Splitting the cases is not that bad. Replaced 4-5 gears, all shift forks and it was good to go. 40K miles later and still going strong. Replace every circlip you remove from the trans shafts.

 

[TonezEnt]

Just send it off for undercutting. a replacement tranny may have or eventually will have the same issue. I dont know about any 5th gear issues though.. same rules apply - replace shift forks and shafts and any other goodies while you have the case open.

Thanks iceman, I'll prolly just get the undercutting work done to fix it. But will that affect the life of the gears if i get them under cut? Or will they wear like usual? Cause I'm not drag racing or anything. Just a casual rider trying to save on getting his 2nd gear back again

 

[icemansid]

Thanks iceman, I'll prolly just get the undercutting work done to fix it. But will that affect the life of the gears if i get them under cut? Or will they wear like usual? Cause I'm not drag racing or anything. Just a casual rider trying to save on getting his 2nd gear back again

Nope. Robonison can weld it and re-grind them in a reverse cut and they will actually be stronger. the cheaper version is just a re-grind to correct the issue.

 

[TonezEnt]

Sold

 

[paulp]

Did mine. Bike had 8K on it. Prev. owner beat the crap out of the bike I guess. It was about 6-700 in parts. Pull the engine. prop it upside down. Do so with out breaking any sensors off of the head. Splitting the cases is not that bad. Replaced 4-5 gears, all shift forks and it was good to go. 40K miles later and still going strong. Replace every circlip you remove from the trans shafts.

Hi
what do I need to remove to allow me to split the cases, can I leave the clutch in place?

Thanks

 

[1bondoman]

no,,remove the whole clutch assembly

Hi
what do I need to remove to allow me to split the cases, can I leave the clutch in place?

Thanks

 

[icemansid]

Hi
what do I need to remove to allow me to split the cases, can I leave the clutch in place?

Thanks

Paul,

you are not going to get a different answer by asking the same question in a different thread. Trust me - I and many others here have done this. The only real way to remove the tranny is to drop the motor, remove the external components (clutch, stator cover, starter and starter gears) and split the case. Honestly, clutch removal should be the first thing you do after dropping the oil - its heavy and will make the motor heavier if left in place.

 

[paulp]

Hi Icemansid

I have the motor on the bench now and would just like to check if as per the manual i need a special tool to remove the clutch, or if it just makes it easier, if you do not need the tool how do you recommend holding it still while loosening / tightening the bolts?

I plan to send second and sixth away for recutting unless i see other problems in which case i will send the complete transmission away.

Any usefull tips greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Paul

 

[icemansid]

You dont need anything special to remove the clutch. it does make it easier but you can do it without. you just have to somehow hold the inner hub tight enough to remove the nut. i always found it best to leave the clutch pack in and have someone compress it with their hands while you try to remove the nut. That make sense?