400hp, 3” stretch, stock ride height and no wheelies.

Boosted Cycle Perf

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There’s no doubt that the AMS-2000 is hands down the best controller on the market. However over its 1000 counterpart, the 2k is not a very street friendly controller do to how it’s configured, and how it needs to be triggered to activate a boost ramp.

After LOTS of testing, we’ve been able to get it to be a repeatable, streetable, boost controlling monster.

But aside from having a 5 position switch to select boost levels on the fly, probably the most amazing part of this unit is having the capability to ramp in boost based on speed. Which until now, unless you had an expensive stand alone, it wasn’t an option. And for the average mid HP street ridden bike, this could very possibly be the best boost strategy to use. Anyone who has, or has ridden even a stage 1, 250hp Busa sitting at less then 4” knows that it’s usually a spin fest, or a power wheeling pogo stick if you don’t easy in to it.

Well we were finally able to install and test a unit on a bike we just recently finished up, and the results are incredible. Never in my life have I ever been able to stab a swb, 400hp bike from a 60 roll in second gear, and not have to worry about the front coming up. This is hands down the smoothest, most predictable bike I have ever ridden.

I personally feel that we could of gotten a little more aggressive with the boost ramp but being the customer isn’t going out and racing for YouTube fame, it’s set up just right.

A little explanation of how it works. The bike pulls the front end with anything over wastegate pressure (8 psi, 230 whp) right up to about 65mph. It’s only after that we started adding boost till it stated to wheelie again. Then repeated the process to what landed us at the full 410hp being applied at ~150 mph.

So here’s a little CGI video from Pixar demonstrating what should happen in real world conditions. (No chains or tires were harmed in this video... because this is CGI... **wink)


A little more info on the car. It’s a 6th gen Camaro with the 6 speed auto. It makes 920 whp on boost, and just over 1100 whp on nitrous. Anyone who follows the new Gen 5 LT stuff knows how insane these new cars are. Those cars make power and use it way more efficiently then previous generations.

The car was spraying off the hit, and still the bike stayed by its side even with the boost being low off the hit.

NOW we really want to do the same set up on a higher HP bike that’s longer, lower and on a better tire. We could get way more aggressive on the boost ramp. But we’ll have to wait for that opportunity to come along. (Cough cough SERENITY...)
 
That is impressive , the bike at that stock looking height , and the rider not even laying fully prone on the tank , just walking away from that killer car like that . You guys sure have got things well sorted .

It really is.

That was me. 6’2, full leathers no air shifter and stock location foot pegs aren’t conducive to staying tucked when the bike is pulling that hard.

As far as being well sorted? Thanks. This is only just the beginning.
 
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What tires do you have?

Btw: I got a zx11 with turbo,efi,and microtech...II'm putting a boost control on...but don't think I can do by gear....only rpm
 
yea...I kinda wished I saved up for the ms3x expanded...cause it has traction control, and I believe boost by gear....im not real sure what my microsquirt can do...I like the ams..but this is a low budget build, and microsquirt is what I have...but I could upgrade later...I want the fastest 1/4 and 1/2 mile...without slip/wheelies...and tuning to 420hp now...I have a 6" arm

...not for class racing, just fun....and to go to track with me friend...he has a 850hp Cadillac...he races in 1/4 and 1/2 ....im just runninmine to see what it and I can do :)

glad the Shinko did good
 
I also have tps , throttle position sensor....with rpm....maybe I can take that some
 
That's pretty Impressive Rob. I would like to get one of those and a new Motec dash. I would like to try the speed based, but I would really like gear based. I can hook 400 hp from 3rd gear up with 6 over. On a warm day.... lol Sometimes I like stabbing it in 3rd from a lower speed, just because... :p

Never could get gear based to run right on my AMS1000. I have to use shift based, or like most of the time I run gate pressure and have a "party switch" for scramble.
 
yea...I kinda wished I saved up for the ms3x expanded...cause it has traction control, and I believe boost by gear....im not real sure what my microsquirt can do...I like the ams..but this is a low budget build, and microsquirt is what I have...but I could upgrade later...I want the fastest 1/4 and 1/2 mile...without slip/wheelies...and tuning to 420hp now...I have a 6" arm

...not for class racing, just fun....and to go to track with me friend...he has a 850hp Cadillac...he races in 1/4 and 1/2 ....im just runninmine to see what it and I can do :)

glad the Shinko did good

It’s just the basic shinko. Not even the ultra soft, or hook up.
 
That's pretty Impressive Rob. I would like to get one of those and a new Motec dash. I would like to try the speed based, but I would really like gear based. I can hook 400 hp from 3rd gear up with 6 over. On a warm day.... lol Sometimes I like stabbing it in 3rd from a lower speed, just because... :p

Never could get gear based to run right on my AMS1000. I have to use shift based, or like most of the time I run gate pressure and have a "party switch" for scramble.

Why the motec dash?

Gear position mode has always been a hit or miss with the ams. That’s mostly because of the very unsteady voltage because of crappy charging systems. The bikes that have my power block systems are way better at keeping the voltage steady. But even still a few have problems keeping a good read. It’s just hard to keep within plus or minus .2 volts on a 5 volt sensor.

The boost by speed is hands down where it’s at. I had limited time, hp, and wheelbase to play with on this bike. If I can get one on the serenity bike, that will really show me the full capabilities of that style of boost control.

Another cool feature is, say on this bike you’re over 60mph where the boost is already over gate pressure. You can set other parameters that have to be met in or for it to work, Along with a ramp rate.

For example if you pegged it at 60mph, it’s automatically going to increase the boost to whatever it should be at that mph. But because you can trigger a ramp at that area, it will ease the boost to wherever it needs to be. Really cool stuff.
 
You are way over my head already, but controlling all that excess power is a fascinating undertaking. It would be interesting to take a GSXR 750 and do your magic to make maximum but usable power. Would you end up with a 750 (weight, handling) that can outrun Busas and is totally streetable? You would also get access to TC, ABS. Could be a killer bike.
 
You are way over my head already, but controlling all that excess power is a fascinating undertaking. It would be interesting to take a GSXR 750 and do your magic to make maximum but usable power. Would you end up with a 750 (weight, handling) that can outrun Busas and is totally streetable? You would also get access to TC, ABS. Could be a killer bike.

Honestly I feel like I might be on the edge of redefining what a maximum and useable HP number is on the street. It this point, I feel like the only limit to the amount of HP to be used on the street could potentially just be fuel type. Serenity made 506whp on 24psi on pump fuel. So if you really wanna give someone the full shaft, c16, or E85 would be needed.

As far a big number gsxrs, that’s kind of a pipe dream if you add the word “longevity” to that question. Those engines are designed to be just strong enough to hold up to them self’s at sustained 14k rpm. Even with good rods and pistons, the aftermarket doesn’t really support lower compression stuff. Usually higher. But even in a perfect world with turbo pistons that can be had for the liter bikes, they just can’t take the abuse. You’re talking about tiny main and rod bearings in comparison to the hayabusa. So while on a Busa engine you may be only doubling rod bearing load on a Busa, you could assume you’re easily tripling rod journal loads on a liter engine do to bearing surfaces being almost cut in half.

When guys come to me for custom gsxr builds I tell them up front, even with the best tune (and it will be) it’s not “IF” the motors gonna break, it’s “WHEN”. They just can’t take the absuse reliably.
 
Honestly I feel like I might be on the edge of redefining what a maximum and useable HP number is on the street. It this point, I feel like the only limit to the amount of HP to be used on the street could potentially just be fuel type. Serenity made 506whp on 24psi on pump fuel. So if you really wanna give someone the full shaft, c16, or E85 would be needed.

As far a big number gsxrs, that’s kind of a pipe dream if you add the word “longevity” to that question. Those engines are designed to be just strong enough to hold up to them self’s at sustained 14k rpm. Even with good rods and pistons, the aftermarket doesn’t really support lower compression stuff. Usually higher. But even in a perfect world with turbo pistons that can be had for the liter bikes, they just can’t take the abuse. You’re talking about tiny main and rod bearings in comparison to the hayabusa. So while on a Busa engine you may be only doubling rod bearing load on a Busa, you could assume you’re easily tripling rod journal loads on a liter engine do to bearing surfaces being almost cut in half.

When guys come to me for custom gsxr builds I tell them up front, even with the best tune (and it will be) it’s not “IF” the motors gonna break, it’s “WHEN”. They just can’t take the absuse reliably.
Appreciate you taking the time to share some knowledge.
 
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