New owner, introduction and some questions

stgatev

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There is no cam break in just lubricate guides with engine assembly lube as you dont want to have dry first start, so you are good to go after swap, but I strongly suggest you to flash ecu asap as your fueling and ignition maps will be way off.
Naturally. Trying to find out if the 2Wheel Dynoworks, which is local to me, has a map for the cams. They list the 3rd gen Busa but not the mod configurations.

sixpack577

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I would get a lithium battery compatible regulator/rectifier too.
Most bikes that came new with lead-acid batterys have no problems with a lithium battery being swapped in...but some bikes do.
Technically you should not mix lithium batterys with lead-acid reg/recs, as they Can have problems at any random time.
Reg/recs are common fail points on most bikes anyway, and when they fail and start overcharging the lead-acid battery, that battery gets Hot, and begins to expand.
The lithium battery, it could care less about trying to be overcharged, and will send that extra current(and heat) throughout the wiring harness, commonly melting plugs and burning insulation off of wiring...as well as other fun gremlins caused by shorts.
Most people don't belive this, but there was another member posting recently about how his reg/rec failed with his lithium battery and melted several plugs and wires, and it isn't a fun fix.
I bought a lithium compatible reg/rec from Ricks Stator for my Gsxr1k to prevent any problems.
$140 was worth it to me, as Murphy's Law says that if something can go wrong...it will...and Murphy and I don't get along for that very reason.
Just something to consider.
The '26 Busa supposedly will have a factory lithium battery, but I have yet to read about what changes were made to the charging system or the reg/rec itself.

welcome to the org

Equanimous

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I would get a lithium battery compatible regulator/rectifier too.
With older bikes, e.g. from the 1990's back, or when lithium's first came out, I'd have agreed with this. But a good quality and compatible lithium has an effective battery management system built in to prevent under or over charging, which protects the bike's charging system. I always use lithium on my bikes (from the Australian brand SSB) and have not had a single problem. Don't ever buy a cheapo from Temu or Amazon - pay for quality, and make sure it's compatible with the bike - some aren't!

sixpack577

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With older bikes, e.g. from the 1990's back, or when lithium's first came out, I'd have agreed with this. But a good quality and compatible lithium has an effective battery management system built in to prevent under or over charging, which protects the bike's charging system. I always use lithium on my bikes (from the Australian brand SSB) and have not had a single problem. Don't ever buy a cheapo from Temu or Amazon - pay for quality, and make sure it's compatible with the bike - some aren't!

You don't have to agree...you just have to read about it happening, and again, and again.
Is it common? No
Does it still happen? Absoloutely.

Equanimous

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I've looked for any evidence that a BMS equipped LiFePO4 increases the likelihood of RR failure and can't find much. RR's fail - absolutely - but most failures occur with OEM batteries installed. A good quality LiFePO4 with BMS is highly unlikely to cause this issue. I'm sure it happens, just not as often as what some may claim.

sixpack577

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There are reg/recs made for lead-acid batterys, and there are reg/recs made for lithium batterys.
There is a reason why.
I never said if happened often either, but it Does happen.
A reg/rec for a lithium battery is cheap insurance that it does not.
It's the individual's choice as to whether or not they do.
Regardless, it is a real enough thing to mention.

Sl@Sh

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Naturally. Trying to find out if the 2Wheel Dynoworks, which is local to me, has a map for the cams. They list the 3rd gen Busa but not the mod configurations.
If they have dyno, they can do custom map for exact your setup and this the way to go, all "online" maps wont be 100% suitable for your bike.

Sl@Sh

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There are reg/recs made for lead-acid batterys, and there are reg/recs made for lithium batterys.
There is a reason why.
I never said if happened often either, but it Does happen.
A reg/rec for a lithium battery is cheap insurance that it does not.
It's the individual's choice as to whether or not they do.
Regardless, it is a real enough thing to mention.
There are no reg/rec specific for lithium batteries, there are two types of rectifiers:

Series-type regulator controls voltage by controlling the flow of power from the generator to the battery, reducing generator current and heat, while a parallel-type (or shunt) regulator controls voltage by diverting excess current to the ground, leading to higher generator current and heat but offering self-short-circuit protection.

So shunt (MOSFET) one is bad for lithium battery old tech and only good for lead batteries, all series will be fine, what "suitable" rectifier is having different is lower MAX voltage set around 13.4v instead of 14.4, but lithium battery BMS wont allow to overcharge it so good to go even with not "suitable" rectifier.

PS gen3 busa still is using OLD mosfet type

FH027BA

rectifier which is not suitable for lithium battery!

So shindengen sh upgrade is mandatory!


PSS running lithium battery on yamaha with shindengen sh 775 rectifier over 4 years and everything is fine, stator runs cooler compared with "mosfet" type rectifier.

sixpack577

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There are reg/recs made for lead-acid batterys, and there are reg/recs made for lithium batterys.
There is a reason why.
I never said if happened often either, but it Does happen.
A reg/rec for a lithium battery is cheap insurance that it does not.
It's the individual's choice as to whether or not they do.
Regardless, it is a real enough thing to mention.
There are no reg/rec specific for lithium batteries, there are two types of rectifiers:

Series-type regulator controls voltage by controlling the flow of power from the generator to the battery, reducing generator current and heat, while a parallel-type (or shunt) regulator controls voltage by diverting excess current to the ground, leading to higher generator current and heat but offering self-short-circuit protection.

So shunt (MOSFET) one is bad for lithium battery old tech and only good for lead batteries, all series will be fine, what "suitable" rectifier is having different is lower MAX voltage set around 13.4v instead of 14.4, but lithium battery BMS wont allow to overcharge it so good to go even with not "suitable" rectifier.

PS gen3 busa still is using OLD mosfet type

FH027BA

rectifier which is not suitable for lithium battery!

So shindengen sh upgrade is mandatory!


PSS running lithium battery on yamaha with shindengen sh 775 rectifier over 4 years and everything is fine, stator runs cooler compared with "mosfet" type rectifier.

I put a Shorai lithium battery in the '18 Gsxr1kR over 5 years ago, and still have no issues.
And even agreeing with your post...mosfet being bad for lithium...so a different reg/rec is needed...and sold for use with lithium batterys.
Yes, the lithium batterys should not be able to overcharge, so when either reg/rec fails...the battery isn't 'absorbing'(for lack of a better term) the extra charge...it justs goes out and melts plugs, wiring insulation, etc
I never said that this was common either, but rather that it Does happen.
There are threads from a few members here who have personally experienced this.
And given that people read these threads for years to come, it's simply and FYI to be aware of.

stgatev

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There are reg/recs made for lead-acid batterys, and there are reg/recs made for lithium batterys.
There is a reason why.
I never said if happened often either, but it Does happen.
A reg/rec for a lithium battery is cheap insurance that it does not.
It's the individual's choice as to whether or not they do.
Regardless, it is a real enough thing to mention.

I put a Shorai lithium battery in the '18 Gsxr1kR over 5 years ago, and still have no issues.
And even agreeing with your post...mosfet being bad for lithium...so a different reg/rec is needed...and sold for use with lithium batterys.
Yes, the lithium batterys should not be able to overcharge, so when either reg/rec fails...the battery isn't 'absorbing'(for lack of a better term) the extra charge...it justs goes out and melts plugs, wiring insulation, etc
I never said that this was common either, but rather that it Does happen.
There are threads from a few members here who have personally experienced this.
And given that people read these threads for years to come, it's simply and FYI to be aware of.
My understanding is that the battery BMS is protecting the battery from overcharging. Mine is Antigravity ATZ-10 with BMS.

stgatev

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If they have dyno, they can do custom map for exact your setup and this the way to go, all "online" maps wont be 100% suitable for your bike.
They confirmed that they have a map for my exhaust and filter, and I will start with that. Cams will wait. Taking the valve cover was not completely wasted. I did a valve clearance check, all within spec.

sixpack577

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My understanding is that the battery BMS is protecting the battery from overcharging. Mine is Antigravity ATZ-10 with BMS.

It is 'Supposed to', and usually does.
I also have an Antigravity lithium battery in my '03 1k.

This is also a general discussion on lithium batterys, and yes quality does make a difference.
However, there are Many lithium batterys on the market now...and not everyone wants to pay for an expensive quality lithium battery...so they just get the cheapest one they can find, usually around half the cost of a known brand...and not knowing the risk that they are taking.
This is a Discussion board.
And most of the regulars here will tell you, that we add general information to threads whenever possible, as Many people come and read them, and for many years.
So it can be very helpful to those who have been searching for specific information.

sixpack577

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And
To no one specifically, but to all in general.
Myself and I know of a few other members who are really getting sick and tired of all of the trolling like answers.
First of all: I do Not belive that I am the end all of motorcycle knowledge, I still make mistakes, and I will be the first to admit that.
However, I have been riding and wrenching for over 32 years, all aspects, engines, transmissions, suspension, everything but dyno-tuning.
I am also very fortunate to have friends and family in engineering, machining, and physics, so I have direct access to people Alot smarter than myself.
I have also been fortunate enough to personally experience some of the strangest problems that most of us only read and wonder about, rare, but seeing is beliving.
When I speak about things, and I say that it is uncommon, but can happen, so beware...that is exactly what I mean.
So, when the commets are "I don't think that happens very often", very good...that is exactly what I said.
Or "I don't think that can happen"...cool, think what you want...but do some more research first.
I come here because I like the core group...even the guys that I disagree with on off-topic subjects.
I have been able to help a few people over the years too, and I am glad that I could.
I also have thick skin, I don't get offended or get my feelings hurt.
I have however had enough of the people in multiple threads that always have their 2 cents of nit picking.
Again, I'm not always right, and never said that I was...but when I have personally experienced things, and try to help someone with that information, directly in a thread, for them And future site visitors, and information that can be fact checked...just be quiet and move along.
I don't need the argument of 'that is uncommon' or 'I havn't seen that', or 'I don't think that can happen'...then go do some reading, ask for a second opinion.
No, no one has to take me at my word, but I'de like to think that in over 16 years, there are some here that do, as I have proven myself competant in what I do over the years.
And, this is in no way, 'how dare anyone question me', but rather, If I comment on something, I have seen it, done it, and fixed it...and am trying to help the next person.
Doubt that? Want to ask questions and debate it? Fine, that is perfectly ok.
But, the blatent, 'that can't happen' bs...just keep it to yourself, as I've had enough.
I will try to back off from answering anyone I don't know anymore, and I have been on here less lately too, as all alot of it has become is people looking to argue...not ask or debate like civil people do.
Rant over

Bumblebee

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And
To no one specifically, but to all in general.
Myself and I know of a few other members who are really getting sick and tired of all of the trolling like answers.
First of all: I do Not belive that I am the end all of motorcycle knowledge, I still make mistakes, and I will be the first to admit that.
However, I have been riding and wrenching for over 32 years, all aspects, engines, transmissions, suspension, everything but dyno-tuning.
I am also very fortunate to have friends and family in engineering, machining, and physics, so I have direct access to people Alot smarter than myself.
I have also been fortunate enough to personally experience some of the strangest problems that most of us only read and wonder about, rare, but seeing is beliving.
When I speak about things, and I say that it is uncommon, but can happen, so beware...that is exactly what I mean.
So, when the commets are "I don't think that happens very often", very good...that is exactly what I said.
Or "I don't think that can happen"...cool, think what you want...but do some more research first.
I come here because I like the core group...even the guys that I disagree with on off-topic subjects.
I have been able to help a few people over the years too, and I am glad that I could.
I also have thick skin, I don't get offended or get my feelings hurt.
I have however had enough of the people in multiple threads that always have their 2 cents of nit picking.
Again, I'm not always right, and never said that I was...but when I have personally experienced things, and try to help someone with that information, directly in a thread, for them And future site visitors, and information that can be fact checked...just be quiet and move along.
I don't need the argument of 'that is uncommon' or 'I havn't seen that', or 'I don't think that can happen'...then go do some reading, ask for a second opinion.
No, no one has to take me at my word, but I'de like to think that in over 16 years, there are some here that do, as I have proven myself competant in what I do over the years.
And, this is in no way, 'how dare anyone question me', but rather, If I comment on something, I have seen it, done it, and fixed it...and am trying to help the next person.
Doubt that? Want to ask questions and debate it? Fine, that is perfectly ok.
But, the blatent, 'that can't happen' bs...just keep it to yourself, as I've had enough.
I will try to back off from answering anyone I don't know anymore, and I have been on here less lately too, as all alot of it has become is people looking to argue...not ask or debate like civil people do.
Rant over
Heck, I've seen some of your posts when you were elbows deep in the GSXR transmission.....a task I would be very hesitant to do myself but you not only ripped into it, your work stands for itself...

This forum definitely needs people like you who add your experience and expertise into the mix...

We are blessed here and have many such people.......I believe this forum would eventually cease to exist without the expertise of people on here guiding others in repairing and modifying not only their Hayabusa but other bikes and vehicles....

Speaking of your GSXR.........what is going on with that thing?

BigBSBusa

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And
To no one specifically, but to all in general.
Myself and I know of a few other members who are really getting sick and tired of all of the trolling like answers.
First of all: I do Not belive that I am the end all of motorcycle knowledge, I still make mistakes, and I will be the first to admit that.
However, I have been riding and wrenching for over 32 years, all aspects, engines, transmissions, suspension, everything but dyno-tuning.
I am also very fortunate to have friends and family in engineering, machining, and physics, so I have direct access to people Alot smarter than myself.
I have also been fortunate enough to personally experience some of the strangest problems that most of us only read and wonder about, rare, but seeing is beliving.
When I speak about things, and I say that it is uncommon, but can happen, so beware...that is exactly what I mean.
So, when the commets are "I don't think that happens very often", very good...that is exactly what I said.
Or "I don't think that can happen"...cool, think what you want...but do some more research first.
I come here because I like the core group...even the guys that I disagree with on off-topic subjects.
I have been able to help a few people over the years too, and I am glad that I could.
I also have thick skin, I don't get offended or get my feelings hurt.
I have however had enough of the people in multiple threads that always have their 2 cents of nit picking.
Again, I'm not always right, and never said that I was...but when I have personally experienced things, and try to help someone with that information, directly in a thread, for them And future site visitors, and information that can be fact checked...just be quiet and move along.
I don't need the argument of 'that is uncommon' or 'I havn't seen that', or 'I don't think that can happen'...then go do some reading, ask for a second opinion.
No, no one has to take me at my word, but I'de like to think that in over 16 years, there are some here that do, as I have proven myself competant in what I do over the years.
And, this is in no way, 'how dare anyone question me', but rather, If I comment on something, I have seen it, done it, and fixed it...and am trying to help the next person.
Doubt that? Want to ask questions and debate it? Fine, that is perfectly ok.
But, the blatent, 'that can't happen' bs...just keep it to yourself, as I've had enough.
I will try to back off from answering anyone I don't know anymore, and I have been on here less lately too, as all alot of it has become is people looking to argue...not ask or debate like civil people do.
Rant over
Feel and hate the frustration you are feeling. The board always has ebbs and flows. Hate it, but it is reality. Certainly don't want you to post less about things as it would be a loss for us all, but understand the rationale.

I celebrate 24 years on the board today, so maybe I'm just being hopeful that others can be around that long or longer.

sixpack577

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Heck, I've seen some of your posts when you were elbows deep in the GSXR transmission.....a task I would be very hesitant to do myself but you not only ripped into it, your work stands for itself...

This forum definitely needs people like you who add your experience and expertise into the mix...

We are blessed here and have many such people.......I believe this forum would eventually cease to exist without the expertise of people on here guiding others in repairing and modifying not only their Hayabusa but other bikes and vehicles....

Speaking of your GSXR.........what is going on with that thing?

Thank you sir, I really do appreciate that...and their are alot of guys here alot smarter and more experienced than me.
I have and do continue to learn from them all, yourself included.
I just don't want to see this place become the nasty gripe-fests many forums have become.


As for my '03, lol...I just currently havn't had the time, and when I do, I lack motivation, lol
Sadly, most everything is there, I just need to get moving again.
As it sits, the forks are almost apart, and on the bench.
I took their caps off and springs out a few weeks ago(to put in RaceTech springs and Gold valves with new seals)...then that bastid Murphy showed up...and the lower fork bolts just want to spin, even with an impact.
So, I have to put the springs back and caps on in order to get those bolts out.
The only problem is I need extra hands with this pair specifically.
They felt stock riding them, but of the many I've done, I've never had springs be this stiff and tall before.
My friend with the '18 Gsxr helped me get them apart, as he has several before, and even he asked what was wrong with these, lol
So that was enough for one evening, and he'll come back whenever I need him to.
It's still warm here, but the days are quickly getting shorter. As it cools off and we have less daylight, I'll get back to it.
Somehow I Always seem to buy or finally fix bikes...when it's good and freezing cold out...which makes for great test rides, lol
This is what my workshop looks like at the moment(The crf230L ds needs a shifter oil seal, $4...and it's sitting on the bench too)

Screenshot_20250924_125133_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20250924_125149_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20250924_125202_Gallery.jpg


20250822_174048.jpg

Bumblebee

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Thank you sir, I really do appreciate that...and their are alot of guys here alot smarter and more experienced than me.
I have and do continue to learn from them all, yourself included.
I just don't want to see this place become the nasty gripe-fests many forums have become.


As for my '03, lol...I just currently havn't had the time, and when I do, I lack motivation, lol
Sadly, most everything is there, I just need to get moving again.
As it sits, the forks are almost apart, and on the bench.
I took their caps off and springs out a few weeks ago(to put in RaceTech springs and Gold valves with new seals)...then that bastid Murphy showed up...and the lower fork bolts just want to spin, even with an impact.
So, I have to put the springs back and caps on in order to get those bolts out.
The only problem is I need extra hands with this pair specifically.
They felt stock riding them, but of the many I've done, I've never had springs be this stiff and tall before.
My friend with the '18 Gsxr helped me get them apart, as he has several before, and even he asked what was wrong with these, lol
So that was enough for one evening, and he'll come back whenever I need him to.
It's still warm here, but the days are quickly getting shorter. As it cools off and we have less daylight, I'll get back to it.
Somehow I Always seem to buy or finally fix bikes...when it's good and freezing cold out...which makes for great test rides, lol
This is what my workshop looks like at the moment(The crf230L ds needs a shifter oil seal, $4...and it's sitting on the bench too)

View attachment 1703350

View attachment 1703351

View attachment 1703352

View attachment 1703353
Getting us a few wheelie videos should be motivation enough.......

That '03 will be an awesome bike when you are done.......and I speak for many that we can't wait to see it done......as I'm sure are you.....

stgatev

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And
To no one specifically, but to all in general.
Myself and I know of a few other members who are really getting sick and tired of all of the trolling like answers.
Was it something I said? If it was me, I apologize, I am grateful for any advise, information, and shared experience.

In the scenario of melted connectors, was the regulator/rectifier bad? Would a lead acid battery have prevented the damage? Again, not looking for a contradiction, but an understanding.

stgatev

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I actually came up with a scenario where a lithium battery may contribute to a damage to the electrical system. If the battery gets full, the BMS stops accepting charging current. If the cutoff is abrupt, it can cause a voltage spike. A lead acid battery, in contrast, will not have this abrupt cutoff. Antigravity (in particular) does not describe how the cutoff is handled, whether it is gradual or instant. Perhaps a supercap can offer some insurance in case of a "clumsy" BMS overcharge disconnect.

Spudley

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Welcome to the ORG. You will be assimilated.
:cool:


I have an ATZ 10 Antigravity battery in one of my bikes and it's been my experience that it is an instant cut off at 12.2v, but I've had no charging system related issues. Just make sure with any lithium battery if you have a bike alarm, put a ground interrupt toggle switch in the mix. They will stay above 13 V all year long but if you have a minute parasitic draw, it will take the battery charge down.
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