Which Oil?
- Thread starter efiguero
- Start date
jsjdjn
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WOW, seems like you know your LUBEVery informative information
In your "opinion" then, whats the BETTER oil to run, Redline, Royal purple, or Mobile 1? Thx
I think you are safe with Mobil 1 or any small syn oil co. out there. I would go with the one that you can get the best deal on. Castrol make a good oil that you can oly get in Europe. But its hard to find. Autozone imports it but like I said its hard to find.
jsjdjn
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Cheep yes Great no it still is missing the Anti Wear and the anti Sheer quailities needed in Motorcycle oil. it is find if you CHANGE the oil and filter every 3000 and don't rev your eng over 5500rpms that what the oil is made for. or a truck that revs 2800 rpms and has a oil filter the size of a package of Brawny paper towels'
ToXSicK RoCKeT
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Cheep yes Great no it still is missing the Anti Wear and the anti Sheer quailities needed in Motorcycle oil. it is find if you CHANGE the oil and filter every 3000 and don't rev your eng over 5500rpms that what the oil is made for. or a truck that revs 2800 rpms and has a oil filter the size of a package of Brawny paper towels'
Ya, i would have to agree about the "CHEAP" part..... Oil is to an Engine as a Helmet is to your Brain! I WILL NOT SKIMP ON THIS!
Poor oil=Engine damage Poor helmet=Brain damage, Any questions??? :learn: .....JMHO
ToXSicK RoCKeT
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You're so right, never heard of any body say that the brand of oil they where using caused engine failure, it comes down to personal preference.
Of all the oil mentioned above Redline is the only grade 5 poly[WITHOUT QUESTION THE HIGHEST GRADE SYN] made. There motorcycle oil also has extra "zink and phosphorus" added.
another oil thread gone
jsjdjn
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You are 100% correct that is what was removed when API changed from sl to sm in the mainstream base III and IV. Royal Purple is also Grade 5 and i think Mobi1 is too. If you use a Base V with CL Category and change the filter every 3000 miles and the oil every 8000 the eng will go well over 200000 and upwards of 300000 miles with out a overhaul. zink and phosphorus were removed when the Category was so called updated to CL from CM. All the camshaft makers were having failures around 20000 miles. They try to say that it caused catalyst converters to fail and was never proven. zink and phosphorus are need to prevent wear. as far as filters go YOU need to use only premium filters like top of the line fram, KN and Wick, even NAPA Gold which is a Wick filter re branded. Its all about the medium and micron size. Never use so called reusable filters a sock in a tin can is better. Do not use racing filters te makers think you are changing the filter after every race. Not that it filters better.
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There's still a few other "less popular" oils out there as well. Alot of information is provided from Marketing groups that don't have an unbiased view of oil. Of course there information will state why there's is better and the other guy is not as good. Between that information AND the publics popularity of certain brands and so many other factors you might as well pick what you want. You can go popular or not. Just let me know when you're able to determine the roote cause of an engine failure being directly related to the choose of your oil. As long as you change your filter and oil during a PM and run your engine as expected you'll be fine.
jsjdjn
Registered
I do not know of anyone saying oil toasted my Eng. It's a known fact USA oil Co's Screw us. Most oils in the US oils are banned in Europe and the oil change intervals a BMW high end cars is 100000 mile on Euro Oil.
scotty - 12
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Rotella is great oil. Using it in my bikes for many years. Never had an issue. Anyone who pays more just likes to pay more. Do what you want but you're pissing $ down your legs. 
