Which Oil?

efiguero

efiguero

Registered
Hey Guys,
I have had a shop do all my oil changes on my past bike, and my first 08 busa (The one that was totaled). Anyhow, I figured this time around, I would try it myself. This will be the first service on this one since I just hit 500 miles. I am planning on switching to synthetic later on, but for this first change, which oil should I use? I am assuming I should stick to the Suzuki oil, but is there another choice that I can use? Reason being, is the Suzuki dealership is not close, but I have about 5 auto parts stores within 5 to 10 minutes from me. So should they carry something I can use? I was going to go with a K&N oil filter due to the ease of install, and one of the auto parts stores can order one for me. If the Suzuki is what I need, then I will make the trek up there, just hate driving all the way up there. Any suggestions are appreciated, if this is a repost, my apologies (I did try search and could not find anything).
 
just go to Auto zone and grab up some Mobil 1 Synthetic bike oil or look and see if you have any Amsoil dealers near you on the south side.
 
Yeah I was gonna e-mail ya and ask you, but did not want to bug. I assumed it was not good to use sythetic so early on, is that not the case?
 
Most auto parts stores carry Valvoline motorcycle specific engine oil for 3-4 bucks a qt. Use that until you're ready for Amsoil (my preference).
 
Allow me to offer you a trade secret that I use when I inadvertently run out of my usual motorcycle oil (which is Silkolene). Doesn't happen often, but when it does, I use a custom Warchild semi-synthetic blend..... 2 quarts of Mobil One 15-50W, and two quarts of Valvoline 10-40W motorcycle oil.

I am serious.

The Mobil One is the old-school, non energy-conserving variant (does NOT have the API Certification Mark "Starburst" label). I normally run Silkolene Comp 4 semi-syn, but there has been more than once this summer when I simply ran out of oil in between ordering up more Silkolene.

A quick jaunt down to Schucks Auto for 4 quarts of the Mobil One/Valvoline cocktail, and all is good until the next case of Silkolene arrives. :beerchug:
 
Your auto parts store usually has a seperate section for bike oil and filters not near the regular oil.
 
I use full synth all the time even for the so called break in and I always use an OE oil filter. The viscosity is where you wanna stay the same if your engine/setup is relatively stock or mildly changed (ie full exhaust, air filter, and pc tune).

There are lots of approaches that all seem to work so use your own best judgment.
 
Royal Purple Break-in Oil

Engine builders using flat-tappet cams have grown increasingly concerned that many modern motor oils do not provide adequate wear protection for new engines, particularly those using flat-tappet cams. Royal Purple has addressed this issue by developing a new engine break-in oil.

Then:
Max-Cycle is specifically formulated to significantly improve motorcycle, ATV and snowmobile engine (and transmission) performance. It’s recommended for use in both air-cooled and liquid-cooled 4-cycle engines and it’s compatible with wet-clutch transmissions.

Max-Cycle’s high film strength dramatically reduces wear. Take a look at the pictures of cam chain tensioners below.
 
Just make sure that the API Rating has SL, SL is the anti wear properties that were removed 2 yrs ago. Since then they have SM Rating which if your research you will see the new Mainstream oils do not protect against wear as the older ones do. Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, ect. will keep your engine running like the day you got it.
 
jsjdjn said:
Royal Purple Break-in Oil

Engine builders using flat-tappet cams have grown increasingly concerned that many modern motor oils do not provide adequate wear protection for new engines, particularly those using flat-tappet cams. Royal Purple has addressed this issue by developing a new engine break-in oil.

Then:
Max-Cycle is specifically formulated to significantly improve motorcycle, ATV and snowmobile engine (and transmission) performance. It?s recommended for use in both air-cooled and liquid-cooled 4-cycle engines and it?s compatible with wet-clutch transmissions.

Max-Cycle?s high film strength dramatically reduces wear. Take a look at the pictures of cam chain tensioners below.
Click to expand...

werd da pic's bro ??? Royal purple or Redline is what im planning on.....l am having a tuff time choosing though :banghead: im sure either one is a winner :beerchug:
 
I think you're right to wait one more oil change till you switch to synthetic. If you go to the parts store just be sure to get real motorcycle oil and not car oil because they can be quite different.
 
Anything is better then Castrol Syntec. I found out it raises your eng temp and makes shifting a pain.

Mobil 1 uses a 100% completely synthetic PAO (Poly Alpha Olephin) Group-V base stock. Mobil invented this technology back in the fifties, and they have always used the 'true' synthetic formula.
Castrol 'Syntec', as originally sold in America back in the late eighties/early nineties, was NOT a true synthetic, even though it was advertised as such.
The Castrol product used a group-III/IV base stock which is derived from natural petroleum/crude oil sources.
The lawsuit brought by Mobil against Castrol resulted in the decision that Castrol was indeed allowed to call thier product 'full synthetic' based on the fact that Castrol claimed it's base stocks recieved further refining processes, at the molecular level, than did 'normal' conventional base stocks.
This very, very refined base stock very closely approched the performance of a full PAO synthetic, so the US 'guv' decided that (paraphrasing here)" If it does the same thing, whats the difference"?, and allowed Castrol to call it synthetic.
The European government does not allow Castrol to sell this product as synthetic there...it carries a different name.
In ExxonMobil in-house tests, the Castrol product is very close to the Mobil 1 product in all areas except:
1)Phosphorous and Sulfer content, which are the main contributors to sludge formation. It comes from the crude oil, and is extremely difficult to remove completely. Mobil 1 has ZERO of these components, making it almost 100% resistant to sludge formation.
2)Mineral-oil is very susceptibale to high-temperature oxidation, creating...sludge and varnish. It also reatins heat and reduces lubricity. Mobil's PAO technology is almost 100% resistant to high-temperature oxidation. Once again, no sludge formation...with better gas mileage to boot!
3) Mobil 1 uses less additives overall (by percentage), meaning more actual oil 'in the mix', creating a cooler running engine, and producing better gas mileage.

And no, I am not on ExxonMobil's payroll, I just know whicjh is a better product overall.
If the Castrol product was a little less expensive thasn the Mobil 1, that would be OK, since it is far less expensive to produce.
Unfortunately, Castrol markets for near the same price as Mobil 1, while they have a much larger profit margin.

I'll stick with Mobil 1

Interstingly, Amsoil, who used to buy thier base stocks exclusively from Mobil, now buys thier base stocks from the lowest bidder, and are consequently now using G-III/IV base stocks in thier 'synthetic' oil.
 
jsjdjn said:
Anything is better then Castrol Syntec. I found out it raises your eng temp and makes shifting a pain.

Mobil 1 uses a 100% completely synthetic PAO (Poly Alpha Olephin) Group-V base stock. Mobil invented this technology back in the fifties, and they have always used the 'true' synthetic formula.
Castrol 'Syntec', as originally sold in America back in the late eighties/early nineties, was NOT a true synthetic, even though it was advertised as such.
The Castrol product used a group-III/IV base stock which is derived from natural petroleum/crude oil sources.
The lawsuit brought by Mobil against Castrol resulted in the decision that Castrol was indeed allowed to call thier product 'full synthetic' based on the fact that Castrol claimed it's base stocks recieved further refining processes, at the molecular level, than did 'normal' conventional base stocks.
This very, very refined base stock very closely approched the performance of a full PAO synthetic, so the US 'guv' decided that (paraphrasing here)" If it does the same thing, whats the difference"?, and allowed Castrol to call it synthetic.
The European government does not allow Castrol to sell this product as synthetic there...it carries a different name.
In ExxonMobil in-house tests, the Castrol product is very close to the Mobil 1 product in all areas except:
1)Phosphorous and Sulfer content, which are the main contributors to sludge formation. It comes from the crude oil, and is extremely difficult to remove completely. Mobil 1 has ZERO of these components, making it almost 100% resistant to sludge formation.
2)Mineral-oil is very susceptibale to high-temperature oxidation, creating...sludge and varnish. It also reatins heat and reduces lubricity. Mobil's PAO technology is almost 100% resistant to high-temperature oxidation. Once again, no sludge formation...with better gas mileage to boot!
3) Mobil 1 uses less additives overall (by percentage), meaning more actual oil 'in the mix', creating a cooler running engine, and producing better gas mileage.

And no, I am not on ExxonMobil's payroll, I just know whicjh is a better product overall.
If the Castrol product was a little less expensive thasn the Mobil 1, that would be OK, since it is far less expensive to produce.
Unfortunately, Castrol markets for near the same price as Mobil 1, while they have a much larger profit margin.

I'll stick with Mobil 1

Interstingly, Amsoil, who used to buy thier base stocks exclusively from Mobil, now buys thier base stocks from the lowest bidder, and are consequently now using G-III/IV base stocks in thier 'synthetic' oil.
Click to expand...

WOW, seems like you know your LUBE :laugh: Very informative information :bowdown: In your "opinion" then, whats the BETTER oil to run, Redline, Royal purple, or Mobile 1? Thx
 
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