Where to get paint and how much?




BUSANAS

Registered
I am going to attempt to paint my air duct cover panels and dont know where to order some of the stock paint with with flex additive, or how much to get for the covers. I have a compressor and sprayer just need to sand em down primer and paint.

thanks
 

sweet tea man

Registered
you can buy flex agent at any local autobodysupply store. if it is a part that is rigid though and wont be subceptible to alot of movement, its not necessary.

you can get factory matched paint from color rite.com

lmk if you have any questions. i'm a painter by trade
 

BUSANAS

Registered
thanks I just found that site, but I still dont now how much it would take? A half pint? I guess also whats the best way to sand down the textured plastic, im guessing just go at it with some rough sand paper then some higher grit.
 

sweet tea man

Registered
if yo're hand sanding it, start with 220grit to remove a good bit of it. spray your adhesion promotor next and follow that with a high build primer with some flex added. sand down the primer with 320 and reprime if you need.

final sand with 600 throughly. seal, and base/clear.

if its small pieces typical paint mixes 1:1. so if you order half a pint, you'll have a pint sprayable. but check with them to see how theirs mixes
 

74madvette

Registered
if yo're hand sanding it, start with 220grit to remove a good bit of it. spray your adhesion promotor next and follow that with a high build primer with some flex added. sand down the primer with 320 and reprime if you need.

final sand with 600 throughly. seal, and base/clear.

if its small pieces typical paint mixes 1:1. so if you order half a pint, you'll have a pint sprayable. but check with them to see how theirs mixes
I am doing mine now.. I am not new to the seen of painting.. these pieces are a bit of a pain to sand.. even with 220 grit it's a pain.. get as much as you can sanded down till it's very slightly porus.. you can then use high buildup primer, just try to do a good job sanding so you dont ove do it with primer.. no need for a promotor, no need for a flex additive, most quality clears have it in them. these are small pieces, and rigid it is not needed.. the flex additive will also effect the final color as well.. but alot of people hear the word plastic and the next word is flex additive.. if your worried about chips, you can get an additive for that.. 400 wet sand is good, very good.. many will say 600 for heavy metallics and candies, I agree with that.. these panels have not yet been wet sanded, I am hoping to get a chance to paint them by next weekend..

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head east busa

Donating Member
Registered
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sweet tea man
if yo're hand sanding it, start with 220grit to remove a good bit of it. spray your adhesion promotor next and follow that with a high build primer with some flex added. sand down the primer with 320 and reprime if you need.

final sand with 600 throughly. seal, and base/clear.

if its small pieces typical paint mixes 1:1. so if you order half a pint, you'll have a pint sprayable. but check with them to see how theirs mixes

I am doing mine now.. I am not new to the seen of painting.. these pieces are a bit of a pain to sand.. even with 220 grit it's a pain.. get as much as you can sanded down till it's very slightly porus.. you can then use high buildup primer, just try to do a good job sanding so you dont ove do it with primer.. no need for a promotor, no need for a flex additive, most quality clears have it in them. these are small pieces, and rigid it is not needed.. the flex additive will also effect the final color as well.. but alot of people hear the word plastic and the next word is flex additive.. if your worried about chips, you can get an additive for that.. 400 wet sand is good, very good.. many will say 600 for heavy metallics and candies, I agree with that.. these panels have not yet been wet sanded, I am hoping to get a chance to paint them by next weekend..Quote

be aware that that type of plastic is really hard to get a good long term adhesion to. Flex ahh the secret behind flex additive it's actually used for parts that are flexible and will contort during install mostly used on bumper covers otherwise it will dissapate over time it is mainly to allow more flexibility in the paint during install. Take the advice on the primer if you overdo it it will make it more open to chipping and cracking. and as for the wet sanding any of the above shoudl work I usually go with 500 somewhere in between but it also depends on how much and how fast you want to knock down the texture. just take your time and follow whatever paint line you choose mixing directions you should be fine.:beerchug:
 

BUSANAS

Registered
I havnt made the jump into this project yet but really want to, this would be my first using a spray gun and completely finishing a project on my own. Madvette keep us posted its looking great so far!
 

74madvette

Registered
I will, I am in the middle of prepping an 04 gsxr for paint...
I'll take pics from base coat, to fineline tape to clear coat...
 

74madvette

Registered
here's is lower fairings that I had to color match.. his bike was red, the match was was very close... you wouldn't notice it in pics... but thoght I would show before and after.. these were less than 24 hrs dry, they got wet sanded and buffed prior to giving them to the owner.. no matter how nice the finish is, I always wet sand and buff..
last pic is my sons bike I painted a few years ago. that pic was taken a few weeks ago, he has since sold it....

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Abi

Donating Member
Registered
I've smoothed and painted about 8 sets of these now. I start with 80grit on several different sanders and da's to remove all the texture. Then move on to 120, 220 and 400. Then epoxy primer not high build, I don't like using a lot of primer because the thicker you get it the more likely it will crack. I've never used an adhesion promoter or flex additive, I don't think it's needed. Newer clears will tolerate quite a bit of flex without an additive. If you want to use it go ahead. No one had ever got back to me saying that the paint has come off and my oldest set is around 4 years.
 

74madvette

Registered
I think some may over use high build.... high build is for use in minor imperfections, many know what these minor imperfections are.. some may use this primer to fill craters ect.. thats not what it is intended for, use it as it was intended for you shouldn't have any problems.. 2 passes with high build and wet sand to completion is sufficent.. good idea on the epoxy, has much better adhesion and is very strong. not so good when you try to sand it smooth because it's so hard...(unless you apply base right over it) when I use epoxy, it's followed by a coat of primer..

how was it using a sander, I didn't use one, there not alot of area to work with using a da, I thought.. wouldn't take much using coarse grit to put a flat spot on the curved area's.. I'll be doing one more set I may give it a shot...
 

Abi

Donating Member
Registered
I think some may over use high build.... high build is for use in minor imperfections, many know what these minor imperfections are.. some may use this primer to fill craters ect.. thats not what it is intended for, use it as it was intended for you shouldn't have any problems.. 2 passes with high build and wet sand to completion is sufficent.. good idea on the epoxy, has much better adhesion and is very strong. not so good when you try to sand it smooth because it's so hard...(unless you apply base right over it) when I use epoxy, it's followed by a coat of primer..

how was it using a sander, I didn't use one, there not alot of area to work with using a da, I thought.. wouldn't take much using coarse grit to put a flat spot on the curved area's.. I'll be doing one more set I may give it a shot...
I mostly use a 5" palm style da. Very light and easy to handle. As long as you keep moving at a good pace I haven't had a problem with flat spots. I also use a die grinder with a 2" diameter flapper wheel to get in the tight spots on the upper pieces, just need to be very cafeful because it will take a lot off in a hurry if you put to much pressure on them.

Epoxy primer can be difficult to lay on smooth, but I've found that if I thin it just a bit(about 5%) I can lay it very smooth and then wet sand with 800 grit to a nice finish.
 

74madvette

Registered
I havnt made the jump into this project yet but really want to, this would be my first using a spray gun and completely finishing a project on my own. Madvette keep us posted its looking great so far!
ok, finished today. I just got done painting an 03 gsxr 1000 (prowler candy red with pearl.) now in the middle of of finishing another 03 gsxr 1000 this one is going a pearl black with purple and blue mica.

as for the duct work, is was just luck that after I did the fineline taping, that I set them on the bench for final taping and noticed I did a perfect match on the lines, and believe me I really didn't care if they were off a small bit. I added 2 coats of clear to it.. there are clears on the market that have a short shelf life once opened.. this clear and activater I had for 2 years, still flows great. not cheap clear though.....

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BUSANAS

Registered
Nice job vette, im still dragging my feet on this one, I decided to powder coat first and do this as my last appearance mod, well for now.
 

74madvette

Registered
what a difference it makes the bike look.. so much better than the boring stock look...
I am painting the grab rail silver next, really wanted to do it the gun metal grey, but my son thinks the silver will blend in better because the back end is silver..
 



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