Where is Everyone?

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

yes I make the plate. It is 1/2 thick. I will fit the 08 Busa.

NICE, Well if you dont mind, Maybe PM me a Package pice deal("deal" being the KEY word ), On both the Spray Bar a the Fuel tank Plate.
Hey one last(ah right lol)question on your Spray Bar. I got to thinking(scary huh)and was wondering WHAT if any, the difference will be from your spray bay to a regular "Y NOS Nozzle" per say? What i mean, is on the y nozzle, doesn't it have a special end on it so that the fuel exiting will atomize into the combustion chamber or throttle bodies?, And i noticed with your's(straight open end)shoots right into T/B's. Will i need to jet the kit different do to this, or does it not make a difference? Thx again Gixx.....You are the Man

 

[kingofdacoast]

Atomization is the key word.

 

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

Brock is right. There is no, I repeat, NO dry nos kit made EVER that is better, as good as, or just as good as wet.

Ya, The more im getting into doing this kit, the happier i am about going "wet". Seems it will be ALOT easyer to tune, equal load on every cyl, and this is what i know more about...its what i've ran on carz for years! My next obstacle is trying to figure out what kinda fuel pump to go with? Beings that i want to keep the kit small(30-40hp), do i just go with the "NOS" small pump without regulator and call it good........or a BIG pump w/regulator, and bypass back to tank? I'm a liitle worried about going lean on initial hit, and i know with the regulator setup with bypass(meaning fuel alwayz circulating, not dead headed against noid)works real good to prevent this! Just not sure all thats needed with a 30/40 shot? Any input fella's? Thx

 

[Gixx1300R]

A NX or NOS fuel pump will be the easiest to setup. If you go with a fuel pump with a regulator you will have alot of tuning to get the correct Nitrous/Fuel ratio. For Safety I would suggest a Wide Band commander. It can be set to turn off the Nitrous if you go too lean.

 

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

A NX or NOS fuel pump will be the easiest to setup. If you go with a fuel pump with a regulator you will have alot of tuning to get the correct Nitrous/Fuel ratio. For Safety I would suggest a Wide Band commander. It can be set to turn off the Nitrous if you go too lean.

Cool! I Think i will go with the NOS Brand, Alwayz been good to me......Just a little confused on not having a SET fuel PSI, with cars there was alway's a "rule of thumb" if you where spraying say 250hp Cheater jets, you needed a "specific" fuel psi setting.....want to say it was like 7-8lbs. I guess with "little" kits(30-40hp)the NOS pump is already set at the correct fuel psi I will check into to Wide Band too, Little pricey, but not copared to 4 melted piston's
Thx again Gixx, i know i cant say it enough, You just cant put a price on Knowledge, and you SIR, are full of it!!

 

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

Atomization is the key word.

??? Can you PLEASE elaborate?

 

[Gixx1300R]

The NOS and NX pumps are set at 7-9 psi. The metering is in the fuel jet. There are 2 rules of atomization when it comes to Nitrous systems. Carbed and Fuel injection. Carbed equipped vehicles need more Fuel/Nitrous atomization since carbs cant mist the fuel to mix with nitrous as efficiently. So the Nitrous kit needs to atomize (mix) the Fuel and Nitrous more effectively). Fuel injectors will mix the fuel and nitrous effectively and is not that much of a concern. There have been dry systems that have sprayed over 400hp with the correct fuel supply through the injectors. You cant do that with a carbureted vehicle.

 

[Gixx1300R]

Do you think this will Atomize the Fuel? Those are secondary injectors above my spraybar.

 

[Gixx1300R]

Here is a vid clip of fuel being atomized by fuel injectors. This is why dry Nitrous systems are possible. Notice the misting while under full throttle. The same thing is happening in your throttle bodies

- Renault F1 Engine[/url]

 

[Gixx1300R]

Here is another vid clip showing injectors firing. Watch the 6000 rpm test

- ASNU GDI Adapter : Instructions for use[/url]

 

[kingofdacoast]

There is no dry kit that will completly atomize correctly. Spray bars interupt the flow of the fuel injectors in the combustion chamber. To put it simple. Take a water hose with 42lbs of pressure and see how straight it flows. Then take another water hose with 900lbs of pressure and watch as it blows the 42lb away from where it was supposed to spray. Now imagine that inside a cylinder head. When a injector sprays it doesn't just roll down the bottom part of the intake trac, it uses the whole thing so that it can mix with the pressurize air flowing in. Now when the nos activates it just blew that fuel to the very bottom of the cylinder track and starts puddling. Very bad on engine components. Does this work? Yes. Is it efficient? No! A wet fogger in a fuel injected vehicle normally sprays before the fuel injector so factory operation is not affected. A wet kit fogger is designed to blast the fuel into atomazation at one central point which insures complete atomization. Anything less is inefficiant.

 

[Gixx1300R]

Your theory is flawed. Wet or Dry Nitrous sprays at 900-1000 psi. Most Wet systems disrupt that laminar flow of the air and fuel because there is a nozzle in the intake tract that is places horizontal. Trust me,I have been dealing with Nitrous since the late 80s. I have bench tested more setups that I can remember. The Fuel is already atomized by the Fuel injectors on dry systems. It it werent you would get raw fuel or it would run really rich. Fuel does not puddle in the combustion chamber.

By the way you cant compare water and Nitrous since water can't be compressed and water weighs 8.33lbs per gallon. It flows differently.

 

[kingofdacoast]

At what point does the fuel atomizes on the dry system? Where can you say exactly is the point of contact for atomization? This is not theory, this is fact. Trust me, I have been dealing with nos since the early 90's. It don't take a rocket scientist to understand that 900lbs of anything will push 42lbs where it wants it. As far as interupting air flow, we are not trying to run naturaly aspirated so it isn't critical for proper nos operation. All the wet kit needs from the factory system is for the throttle blades to be wide open to allow as much air to pass through. In all honesty, once the wet kit activates, it could care less of what the factory fuel system is doing cause its making its own volumetric pressure.

And the water scenerio was just a simple analogy. I have bench tested your kit along with the other spray bars out and none can out perform the basic simplicity of a wet kit.

 

[Gixx1300R]

The injectors atomizes the fuel,that is where it is done on a dry system. And I have been spraying a 150 Dry Shot for 4 years

 

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

Ok, Both of you Guys seem to know your chit , Its seems you both just have two different way's of getting it done, WHO'S right and WHO'S wrong...... i SURE the hell couldnt tell you Its seem's like every time the word N2O comes uo..... arguments start to brewing One thing im not understanding "king" is you keep saying his dry kit wont work(in so many words) But, im installing his WET spray bar......Are you saying this wont work either? I also spoke to Jason, over @ brocks for a long time about n2o going on my 08, and also mentioned "Gixx's" setup and he said it should work just fine. Your thoughts?

 

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

Do you think this will Atomize the Fuel? Those are secondary injectors above my spraybar.

DANM GIXX, that's one hell of a set up brother! is this what's on your personal busa? So if i'm understanding you correctly, this system here is technically a "dry" kit? right ??? And then your using the injectors on top(maybe controlled by a 2nd PC?)to add the needed additional fuel?
BTW, if im prying to much man, just say the word bro.....like you mentioned above, you obviously have many years involved in R&D, and if you dont want to let it loose i completely understand!

 

[kingofdacoast]

Its just not efficient. Where is this "wet" spray bar being mounted? the air box with the injectors in front of the spray bar definitly is a bad idea. Now the NOS is being forced before the fuel and never will properly mix. There has to be a POINT OF CONTACT for the complete atomization of fuel and nos. Nos bottle pressure is what helps blow the fuel INTO atomization with the nos. Pick up any book on nos and they will all say the same. I can take a 1lb bottle of nos and open it up into a engine and make hp. Is it efficient? Can it be fully controlled? Dry kits are just a quick power adder. Like cracking a walnut with a sledgehammer. Will it work, yes. Is it efficient? Only if you like little pieces. Please don't take my word on this. The internet is a wonderful thing. I'm not telling you not to purchase his kit. Just that it is not as efficient as a full wet kit with the proper parts. It hasn't changed much over the years cause its pretty effective. Just like the shark. The perfect killing machine, hasn't changed in years.

 

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

Its just not efficient. Where is this "wet" spray bar being mounted? the air box with the injectors in front of the spray bar definitly is a bad idea. Now the NOS is being forced before the fuel and never will properly mix. There has to be a POINT OF CONTACT for the complete atomization of fuel and nos. Nos bottle pressure is what helps blow the fuel INTO atomization with the nos. Pick up any book on nos and they will all say the same. I can take a 1lb bottle of nos and open it up into a engine and make hp. Is it efficient? Can it be fully controlled? Dry kits are just a quick power adder. Like cracking a walnut with a sledgehammer. Will it work, yes. Is it efficient? Only if you like little pieces. Please don't take my word on this. The internet is a wonderful thing. I'm not telling you not to purchase his kit. Just that it is not as efficient as a full wet kit with the proper parts. It hasn't changed much over the years cause its pretty effective. Just like the shark. The perfect killing machine, hasn't changed in years.

I think i understand your point now...thx, However after watching that youtube clip of what an injector is doing @ ONLY 6000rpm's(can only imagine 11,000)i have a hard time not seeing good atomization, whether the n2o is on top or bottom. So i think what your getting at by saying "not a good idea" is that it may not make the hp potential it could, if it where mounted below engine injectors.....correct?

 

[Gixx1300R]

I think i understand your point now...thx, However after watching that youtube clip of what an injector is doing @ ONLY 6000rpm's(can only imagine 11,000)i have a hard time not seeing good atomization, whether the n2o is on top or bottom. So i think what your getting at by saying "not a good idea" is that it may not make the hp potential it could, if it where mounted below engine injectors.....correct?

Exactly,I have seen injectors spray at 10,500rpm,Fuel Atomization is absolute!!!!! That airbox above is for a customer's CBR1000RR. He is spraying a 100shot. Those are the secondary injectors in the top of the airbox. The main injectors are in the throttle bodies so the Nitrous nozzles are inbetween both sets of injectors.

This is my Airbox back in 2000. Like I said in my post above,I spray 150 shot. Since then I have switched to a Spraybay inside my Airbox (gotta run my own products)

Back in 2000 the only thing on the market was Power Commanders and Yosh boxes. I had to figure out a way to supply enough fuel for a 150 shot and still be able to have driveablility on the street. I can up with this. I run another fuel pump to the fuel rail,since it is a return system the pump can be switched on before the Nitrous is activated. When the button for the Nitrous is pushed the fuel pressure is bumped by 10 psi. The pressure is set by the regulator on the left (pressure gauge is visible)

 

[kingofdacoast]

I think i understand your point now...thx, However after watching that youtube clip of what an injector is doing @ ONLY 6000rpm's(can only imagine 11,000)i have a hard time not seeing good atomization, whether the n2o is on top or bottom. So i think what your getting at by saying "not a good idea" is that it may not make the hp potential it could, if it where mounted below engine injectors.....correct?

Dry kits are just luck of the draw. Nobody that makes dry kits know for sure if it properly works or not. Just that when the button is pressed it makes hp. They think as long as its rich enough it "should" work. You can take a 150hp shot of dry and a 60 shot wet and the wet kit will make more mph and be way more consistant that that big dry shot. And cheaper too. There is another spray bar out (which I won't name) that both me and Lee Shierts tried and it destroyed alot of expensive parts. The kit was expensive to start with just to be able to do what a standard wet kit does. The only way to use a dry kit is as what they were designed to do. Fog the air box to cool intake charge, not to atomize. These big dry shots are not consistant. I have already debated this on other sites before. I've tried just about ever nos kit both wet and dry on the market. I've both dyno tested (on my own dyno) and track tested and still come back to the good ole reliable wet kit.