Wet Kits

MikeSomething

Registered
I see alot of dry kits for sale everywhere... Is the makeup fuel given by our computer really reliable? I'd like to see how easy it is to install a wet kit system, and I forgot to look, but do our stock fuel rails have a test port to hook it up to? Any kits you guys recommend? Was thinkin "Zex"...
 
Dry kit is good up to about 40 shot, with a custom map. Some people have gone bigger, but 40 seems to be considered safe by everyone.
Wet kit is not as easy to install, but can be done with basic tools and a reasonable amount of mechanical aptitude. (However I have seen people that can't install a power commander....) Most kits use the same solenoids, don't be fooled by brand name stickers.
My advice is to PM Golden Child and talk your options thru with him. Great guy to deal with, and excellent prices.
 
When I finaly do it....prob be an NX wet kit at 60hp and a NOS dual stage controller.:whistle: BUT..be another winter with NO $$$ for it again!:banghead:
 
I have 40 shot...straight into the airbox...the ecu reads the added oxygen, and the drop in temp and changes the fuel....i use the pass button on the left handle bar controls as the nos button...when i get the ecu reflashed i will have that button also change the map in the ecu momentarily for optimal results
 
does anyone just compensate with their injectors vs. tapping and running fuel?
 
What would you use for that? Dual Power Commanders and a hub or something?

ECUEdit. why use a power commander to fool the ecu when you can just go straight to the source for half the price? As far as the wet kits go..I've never installed one ona bike but have installed several on cars. Not that big a hassle aside from having to T into the fuel line. With ecuedit available for the hayabusa though, I dont know why anyone would want to mess with changing fuel jets for a wet kit though.....just tune to add fuel with your injectors...if you're running too big a hot for the injectors to handle the additional fuel...then buy large injectors!:thumbsup:
 
ECUEdit. why use a power commander to fool the ecu when you can just go straight to the source for half the price? As far as the wet kits go..I've never installed one ona bike but have installed several on cars. Not that big a hassle aside from having to T into the fuel line. With ecuedit available for the hayabusa though, I dont know why anyone would want to mess with changing fuel jets for a wet kit though.....just tune to add fuel with your injectors...if you're running too big a hot for the injectors to handle the additional fuel...then buy large injectors!:thumbsup:

:thumbsup::thumbsup: Dry is gonna be the new way to go:laugh: Look at the real street bikes,they all have a dry system and stock injectors:whistle: It is all in the set up and tune.:beerchug:
 
Wet kits are def more complicated. But they have been around for a long time and there are a lot of components developed for them that make the install a snap. No welding bungs in tanks and no drilling into heads. The parts are out there and you can find them all on this site
 
The street bike trend is defitely towards the dry kit now that there are several easy and relatively safe ways to progressively add fuel to compensate for the juice. ECU editor for the GenI and GenII can provide the fuel enrichment. Power Commander with a hub switch works as well if you don't feel like flashing, but its expensive and (for a GenII)you need to control the upper 4 injectors if you want to reliably shoot more than a 35 shot. The lower injectors run out of fuel at that point. As said above, the AMA real street class has really shown what is possible with dry systems. They are running insane high 7 second passes with short wheelbase bikes on dry. A dry system is composed of the following basic items:
Bottle
3' braided line to solenoid
solenoid
1' braided line to dry injector(s) in air box or spyder
spyder is optional (I don't like them, but many do)
progressive controller (optional, but necessary for dragracing)

Wet kits are simpler to tune, so you still see them on non-fuel injected race bikes as the norm. You can just change jets with known combinations that are known to work well. Dry kits really should be tuned properly with someone knowing what they are doing or it will go bang.
 
I need to research ECUEdit some... and I'm kind of a fan of a WOT switch...
My intention is to simply slap on a 20shot, simply for street, not for track passes yet.

Anyone else run a WOT switch?
 
with ecuedit it's a simple check mark in a box for the nitrous engagement to only take place >85% throttle. :beerchug:

I need to research ECUEdit some... and I'm kind of a fan of a WOT switch...
My intention is to simply slap on a 20shot, simply for street, not for track passes yet.

Anyone else run a WOT switch?
 
WOT is the way to go and with a 20 shot you will be fine! and if you are fogging the air box the sensor in the box will fatten up the map for you,once it sees that colder air it will add fuel.But I would only do this on a small shot:beerchug: But IF any bigger go get your self a good tune to get all the power out of the system:thumbsup:
 
WOT is the way to go and with a 20 shot you will be fine! and if you are fogging the air box the sensor in the box will fatten up the map for you,once it sees that colder air it will add fuel.But I would only do this on a small shot:beerchug: But IF any bigger go get your self a good tune to get all the power out of the system:thumbsup:
Thanks for the info... I figure a 20shot is a good start. I'm getting it dyno'd soon, I was gonna get a tune w/ out the Juice. I was thinkin of getting ecuEdit instead of my TRE, just for tuning reasons... You think that's a good idea?
 
Thanks for the info... I figure a 20shot is a good start. I'm getting it dyno'd soon, I was gonna get a tune w/ out the Juice. I was thinkin of getting ecuEdit instead of my TRE, just for tuning reasons... You think that's a good idea?

ok look man....you REALLY need to read up on ecuedit. It does EVERYTHING you've mentioned and more. it'll get rid of your top speed limiter, engage and disagage nitrous at preset rpms and only at above 85% throttle while similtaniously switching to a nitrous tuned map automatically, allow you to precisely tune bothfuel and timing and more....all without adding a bunch of extra crap to your busa and all for under $200! Simple to wire and simple to use. I purchased everything needed from boostbysmith awhile back for $180(including a shift light) and it only took me about 15 minutes to hook up the harness and start making changes. imo, if your running the bottle on a busa(or even if your not!) ecuedit is a must!
 
wet kits are better and safer to use

if your still running carbs!:rofl: Seriously though, with the ability to precisely tune todays fuel injected engines, wet kits are kinda obsolete. you can add the necessary fuel alot more precisely and without having to install an extra fuel solenoid and and fuel lines using you're injectors than you ever could using jets to tune. Matter of fact, the only fuel injected vehicle I've ever installed a wet kit on was my wifes honda accord and that was just because I didnt have the money to purchase the necessary tuning device needed to allow me to run a large shot on a dry kit safely.
 
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if your still running carbs!:rofl: Seriously though, with the ability to precisely tune todays fuel injected engines, wet kits are kinda obsolete. you can add the necessary fuel alot more precisely and without having to install an extra fuel solenoid and and fuel lines using you're injectors than you ever could using jets to tune. Matter of fact, the only fuel injected vehicle I've ever installed a wet kit on was my wifes honda accord and that was just because I didnt have the money to purchase the necessary tuning device needed to allow me to run a large shot on a dry kit safely.

Before ECUeditor I would say different. Wet Kits are still more efficient than dry but with the help of ECUeditor to get to the factory map, adding fuel without causing high duty cycles can now be achieved. I'm running a spyder setup on my real street bike and I'm up to a 100 shot on stock injectors finally tripping the FI light and right at 80% duty cycle. It has been really consistant. Tuning is the key with any dry nitrous setup. If you have a ok tuner you will get engine parts. Have a great tuner and you will fly. Dry still is at the mercy of your fuel system but technology is catching up with it.
 
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