wheel bearing removal

[Kassofcmb]

any tips? I'm having a hell of a time with the rear wheel bearings

[mike1180]

I take mine out with a brass punch hammered from the other side.
When you remove the bearings they can't be re-used.
They are damaged and have to be replaced.

[Blanca BusaLess]

Take it to shop with 10 bucks in your hand.
Walk around to the service bays and look sorry.
Hopefully an eager mech will help you out.
A bearing puller will get em out in like 20 seconds.
Quick 10 bucks for him. Easier mind for you ?

Maybe.

[Kassofcmb]

got it, already have the new bearings (the seal on the sprocket hub bearing was blown) I'm having a hard time with the wheel bearings because of the pipe looking guide thing in the wheel. it makes it really difficult to find an edge.

[Blanca BusaLess]

pipe looking guide thing is spacer.
Your axle will pass thru it.
Try not to score up inside of spacer as it will rub on the axle and poss create friction and heat ?

[Blazing-Saddle]

Take it to shop with 10 bucks in your hand.
Walk around to the service bays and look sorry.
Hopefully an eager mech will help you out.
A bearing puller will get em out in like 20 seconds.
Quick 10 bucks for him. Easier mind for you ?

Maybe.

That works for me; a shop is usually outfitted with proper pullers and can save you alot of headaches. I had a shop do mine for $25, front and rear...

[tmpowdercoating]

give the spacer a tap to one side or the other to allow you to get a good bite on the bearing.

[roadthing]

any tips? I'm having a hell of a time with the rear wheel bearings

Get your hands on a blind hole bearing puller (for larger bearings). It does not have to be an expensive setup, so a bargain on something like a Harbor Freight or Northern Tool deal will suffice. Whether or not the unit comes with collets, you might still have to fabricate an adapter to sit behind the bearing on the puller's forcing/pulling screw. Bottom line: If you are not going to be removing wheel bearings frequently, you won't need a big-dollar removal tool.

In the past, I have used large pieces of tempered schedule 80 pipe in a pinch, and lengths of "all thread" with appropriate nuts, washers, and a piece of PVC pipe to act as a receiver. In an extreme case, a slide-hammer adapted to the task works well.

If you elect to use brute force, and smack it out with a drift and hammer: Do yourself a favor and use a HEAVY DEAD-BLOW HAMMER. The more you have to beat on a bearing, the greater the chance of the bearing bore, or seat being damaged.

One thing to bear in mind is that once you remove a bearing it is TRASH, regardless of method used to remove it. You can also apply heat to the wheel bearing bore (inside the hub) using EXTREME caution not to do any damage. You can also use some freeze spray on the bearing to shrink it, and ease the removal.

Good luck, and most importantly, HAVE FUN!

[Schism]

grab a torch my friend and heat them up, then watch them pop out. worked for me when i removed the rear wheel bearings.

[celticBandit]

I used a hammer and drift.

Before you re-install take a look at the following link:

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/117125-front-wheel-bearing-question.html

Always use a bearing puller, do not hammer in with an old socket. You need to make sure to leave a bit of clearance as shown in the Suzuki manual. The Haynes manual is incorrect on bearing insertion. I even emailed Haynes and they confirmed it for me.
If it is very difficult to move the spacer to one side then it is most likely because to last time the bearings were done the guy used a socket and hammer, and he hammered them in too far.

pipe looking guide thing is spacer.
Your axle will pass thru it.
Try not to score up inside of spacer as it will rub on the axle and poss create friction and heat ?

It doesn't matter if you score the spacer because the axle does not ride/spin on it. the wheel spins between the inner and outter races of the bearings.