wheel bearing removal
- Thread starter Kassofcmb
- Start date
Take it to shop with 10 bucks in your hand.
Walk around to the service bays and look sorry.
Hopefully an eager mech will help you out.
A bearing puller will get em out in like 20 seconds.
Quick 10 bucks for him. Easier mind for you ?
Maybe.
Walk around to the service bays and look sorry.
Hopefully an eager mech will help you out.
A bearing puller will get em out in like 20 seconds.
Quick 10 bucks for him. Easier mind for you ?
Maybe.
pipe looking guide thing is spacer.
Your axle will pass thru it.
Try not to score up inside of spacer as it will rub on the axle and poss create friction and heat ?
Your axle will pass thru it.
Try not to score up inside of spacer as it will rub on the axle and poss create friction and heat ?
That works for me; a shop is usually outfitted with proper pullers and can save you alot of headaches. I had a shop do mine for $25, front and rear...
give the spacer a tap to one side or the other to allow you to get a good bite on the bearing.
Get your hands on a blind hole bearing puller (for larger bearings). It does not have to be an expensive setup, so a bargain on something like a Harbor Freight or Northern Tool deal will suffice. Whether or not the unit comes with collets, you might still have to fabricate an adapter to sit behind the bearing on the puller's forcing/pulling screw. Bottom line: If you are not going to be removing wheel bearings frequently, you won't need a big-dollar removal tool.
In the past, I have used large pieces of tempered schedule 80 pipe in a pinch, and lengths of "all thread" with appropriate nuts, washers, and a piece of PVC pipe to act as a receiver. In an extreme case, a slide-hammer adapted to the task works well.
If you elect to use brute force, and smack it out with a drift and hammer: Do yourself a favor and use a HEAVY DEAD-BLOW HAMMER. The more you have to beat on a bearing, the greater the chance of the bearing bore, or seat being damaged.
One thing to bear in mind is that once you remove a bearing it is TRASH, regardless of method used to remove it. You can also apply heat to the wheel bearing bore (inside the hub) using EXTREME caution not to do any damage. You can also use some freeze spray on the bearing to shrink it, and ease the removal.
Good luck, and most importantly, HAVE FUN!
celticBandit
Registered
I used a hammer and drift.
Before you re-install take a look at the following link:
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/117125-front-wheel-bearing-question.html
Always use a bearing puller, do not hammer in with an old socket. You need to make sure to leave a bit of clearance as shown in the Suzuki manual. The Haynes manual is incorrect on bearing insertion. I even emailed Haynes and they confirmed it for me.
If it is very difficult to move the spacer to one side then it is most likely because to last time the bearings were done the guy used a socket and hammer, and he hammered them in too far.
It doesn't matter if you score the spacer because the axle does not ride/spin on it. the wheel spins between the inner and outter races of the bearings.
Before you re-install take a look at the following link:
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/117125-front-wheel-bearing-question.html
Always use a bearing puller, do not hammer in with an old socket. You need to make sure to leave a bit of clearance as shown in the Suzuki manual. The Haynes manual is incorrect on bearing insertion. I even emailed Haynes and they confirmed it for me.
If it is very difficult to move the spacer to one side then it is most likely because to last time the bearings were done the guy used a socket and hammer, and he hammered them in too far.
It doesn't matter if you score the spacer because the axle does not ride/spin on it. the wheel spins between the inner and outter races of the bearings.
Last edited:
Similar threads
