What kills an ECU?

[ajblbv]

So the dealership identified my ECU and clutch switch as being dead, relating to my c41 code. Only good thing about this is I never would have figured that out on my own, I always would have suspected another component. Luckily got a used one en route as I speak, but you know how that can go.....

Which brings me to my question, what kills an ECU?

For whoever is wondering, I did consider briefly upgrading to a 32 bit ECU but decided that since the bike will most likely remain stock, and I got a cheapie off ebay it was not worth it at this juncture.

I just hope the dealership is right, they have been very good to me before both with scheduling, and charging me job rates instead of hourly rates. Just seems like an odd component to just go out.

 

[mike1180]

If you disconnect the battery while it is running that will kill the ECU.
Also if you hook up the cables backwards.

 

[Wayneovich]

Bad connections?

 

[ajblbv]

Odd, didn't do any of those things, just hoping this gets it running.

 

[mestona]

Moisture will most certainly kill it too....

 

[2busa]

I would think a motherboard in the ECU would burn. I would think a peg would burn internally, rendering the ECU junk. You check the (-)/(+) pegs to the ECU to see if this is burned or completes the loop out?

So for c41 to code, it means the ECU is good you'd think? It read all parameter inputs, selects the output signals and knows c41 is fuel pumphantom. So, does the clutch switch and fuel pump relate? Kill the bike via spark or pump?

If you are waiting for an ECU, I sure am not looking in that direction. There are 3 fundamental preliminaries before you throw parts at it, and then there are the hidden phantom jumpers that throw your diagnosing off.

Give you an example: Cam sensor pops on. Come to find out, the guy buys a cam sensor. Didn't he read the book for the limit numbers? He installs the new cam sensor and it still pops up with the same code number. Well, his crank sensor timing wheel came loose off the crank end, threw a phantom cam code. Get it?

Now, this guy is thinking it's the ECU? Brake switch is an on or off switch, not an analog switch like a TPS or an internal wire like a coil wire, or the same injector magnetic coil wire wrapping to make things electro magnetic or build a flux increase with more wound coil wire.

3 basic variables say:
1. Connector is not connected someplace on the harness?
2. You tugged hard on a connector and now a wire is out of the connector, pulling on the wires, caused the male/female pins not the connect any longer on the tug out.
3. A wire is short to ground being out of the connector that is now dangling to ground, is pinched to ground, you closing the seat on a part of a harness say.

Things like that are watt you look for before you take the wallet out. Now, he, like the cam sensor guesser is throwing parts at it is my guess. Beer to dough nuts, is I'd be nuts to guess the ECU, knowing it spits a code, has more than one component tied to the loop to restart the bike. Get it?

Say, are there any dingle berries hanging or starting to crop up again with an A


Pg. 4-19 (1999-2000 FSM) << Good Luck! Hope he called it right. And if it is not the ECU, they owe you! If I can find that one wire within an hour's time, that should be all you should shell out of pocket. You now have someone learning on your bike? No WAY! Now that ECU is going to be plugged in like the cam sensor and where was that digital volt meter all dis time? You pay for more time? NOWAY HOSESAY!

 

[mike1180]

I would think a motherboard in the ECU would burn. I would think a peg would burn internally, rendering the ECU junk. You check the (-)/(+) pegs to the ECU to see if this is burned or completes the loop out?

So for c41 to code, it means the ECU is good you'd think? It read all parameter inputs, selects the output signals and knows c41 is fuel pumphantom. So, does the clutch switch and fuel pump relate? Kill the bike via spark or pump?

If you are waiting for an ECU, I sure am not looking in that direction. There are 3 fundamental preliminaries before you throw parts at it, and then there are the hidden phantom jumpers that throw your diagnosing off.

Give you an example: Cam sensor pops on. Come to find out, the guy buys a cam sensor. Didn't he read the book for the limit numbers? He installs the new cam sensor and it still pops up with the same code number. Well, his crank sensor timing wheel came loose off the crank end, threw a phantom cam code. Get it?

Now, this guy is thinking it's the ECU? Brake switch is an on or off switch, not an analog switch like a TPS or an internal wire like a coil wire, or the same injector magnetic coil wire wrapping to make things electro magnetic or build a flux increase with more wound coil wire.

3 basic variables say:
1. Connector is not connected someplace on the harness?
2. You tugged hard on a connector and now a wire is out of the connector, pulling on the wires, caused the male/female pins not the connect any longer on the tug out.
3. A wire is short to ground being out of the connector that is now dangling to ground, is pinched to ground, you closing the seat on a part of a harness say.

Things like that are watt you look for before you take the wallet out. Now, he, like the cam sensor guesser is throwing parts at it is my guess. Beer to dough nuts, is I'd be nuts to guess the ECU, knowing it spits a code, has more than one component tied to the loop to restart the bike. Get it?

Say, are there any dingle berries hanging or starting to crop up again with an A


Pg. 4-19 (1999-2000 FSM) << Good Luck! Hope he called it right. And if it is not the ECU, they owe you! If I can find that one wire within an hour's time, that should be all you should shell out of pocket. You now have someone learning on your bike? No WAY! Now that ECU is going to be plugged in like the cam sensor and where was that digital volt meter all dis time? You pay for more time? NOWAY HOSESAY!

???
Sometimes I just don't understand what you are saying??

Anyway electronic stuff just fails sometimes.
No reason really, it just goes.
I am sure we can all name some electronics of ours that have gone south, for no apparent reason.
Hey good luck with the problem.

 

[2busa]

???
Sometimes I just don't understand what you are saying??

Anyway electronic stuff just fails sometimes.

Here, it's really simple thinking:
1. Wire in is (-) Ground to the wall socket's short eye slot or the battery post.
2. Wire in the center is the electronics or the bulb or the resistor with two legs sticking out for the minus/plus wires.
3. Wire out (+) is watt it takes to light the bulb, run the computer's resistors in the motherboard, and that wire is hooked up to the other wall slot with the longer eye slot/battery post... For argument sake.

So, either:

1. The lamp socket is not plugged in the wall.
2. The filament to the bulb is burned out.
3. The wire is out of the socket is the one wire broken at the pin or to the table lamp's bulb holder that attaches the 2 wires to the socket.

Now, if we look at the computer tower, is our volt source out of the wall have two wire slots for the plus/minus? And is not the filament bulb the resistor that could burn out like the ECU or some part in the computer tower is easy to change but the ECU is a sealed case.

Did that make it easier as pie is the same as if the bike was a computer tower with all the guts exposed behind the fairing? You start at the wall socket for power or the battery volt for power, then start from the ground wire(s) being all connected as are the positive side wires from the fuses on out to their respective loops.

Now you have the fuse box with components separated from each other... Say, you have the safety kick/fuel pump/spark all die for safety, the kicker is still down you take off. Yes, there are even two ground-wire-systems in the wire harness, so there is a lot that can go wrong with just an in and an out of one wire.

Something at each end is a potential problem or something in the middle has failed to disconnect the two ends from completing a loop back to the plus/minus loop to make it all work. Those are 3 variables you die with along with fuel, spark, and compression. Without those three attached or tied in together like the, 3wV (3 wire variables), she no run.

Less confusing now? Makes much more sense we read again what is so confusing is now made sim pull is that wire pull. This is where, ajb, can stand there with the service manager and start asking if the mechanic tried all 6 variables to starting? A little knowledge is a dangerous thing [when you're on the clock paying]. So, how through and complete was that diagnosis is watt I'm getting at to order a part that may not be needed.

Way too many hours on way too simple a bike. Difficult for me, but I'm saying, it sure looks simple.

 

[expat1970]

2busa i totally understood first explanation,but was lost on the second and i agree it should not take that long to test if ecm is at fault.you got power/grounds going into ecm and you check for power/signal going out to each sensor that is related to your problem .if good going in but not comming out ,then ya ecm.good luck

 

[Johnnycheese]

this is a occurance with all busas I have seen it many times and all was from someone trying to jump the fuel pump relay and hit the wrong wire

 

[2busa]

this is a occurance with all busas I have seen it many times and all was from someone trying to jump the fuel pump relay and hit the wrong wire

1+

Relay is like the house main fuse box. Blow that, no start or house current, but you didn't blow the generator at the Dam ECU.

 

[ajblbv]

this is a occurance with all busas I have seen it many times and all was from someone trying to jump the fuel pump relay and hit the wrong wire

I must admit this is probably what I did.

Oh well, scratch it up to working on something I am not an expert in. What a learning curve. However, if that's correct and I fried the ECU, the initial cause of the code is still in question.

Thanks JC