What did you do to your other motorcycle today ?

TallTom said:
I'm not sure how the linking is proportioned. Like any bike most of the stopping power is done up front. I also went with EBC HH and fresh fluid. It definitely improved braking but to your point, how much rear is linked to the front?

I'm just educated guessing that the main reason they want to link in the rear is to keep that big phat rear end from trying to swap places with the front end in the event you need to haul her down quickly.

I've experimented a little when I ride. 2 fingers pulling in pretty hard and I don't feel the rear end lighten up. But it's a lot of weight up front generally anyway.

I had an opportunity to have a rear passenger. He needed a ride to pick up his Harley. It was in my earlier days of miles. Like the first 200.

So he is probably 200. I'm 230. And I didn't remember to run the pre-load up. So it was very front light in geometry.

The 1st time I went to grab front brake it felt actually dangerously inadequate. But the rear end never felt like it wasn't trail braking.

I remembered to run up the pre-load and it improved braking by 200%. So it's possible the linking is progressive based on the pre-load setting as well. The bike knows what value you have set for pre-load. So it may proportionally move that linking based on Pre-load as a component. Having said that, then that would mean there is a brake module somewhere working all that out.

Or that anti dive plunger is the mechanical coupling. The more the front end dives, the more piston travel. And that is directly linked to the brakes.

I would have a hard time believing Honda went to all this trouble to link brakes, without figuring out how to proportion it through varying circumstances.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure of the front/rear ratio on the linked braking either.
Mine is not an ABS bike, and the system is very simple from what I see.
The anti-dive works great on mine as well.
The whole bike felt very stable, but
I will wait and see how noticeable the pad swap is too.
 
I put Shorty levers on the Goldwing, cheapos for now, but the fit and finish is very nice.
I also redrilled the switch locator holes in the handlebars, and moved the switch housings about an inch further out on each side, to move the grips out a little wider, and giving me more clearance to roll the levers down further, towards the front and inside.
I had to cut off some of the end of the throttle tube as well.
(I like 1 or 2 fingers on the levers, and the others on the grips, with the levers engaging as far from the bars as possible).
And Yes...those are Hayabusa bar-ends on there! lol
The bike came with the oversized chrome grips with the rubber pads that push through it, so no bar-ends, and after trying several from my stash...the Busa bar-ends fit best, which is good anyway, as they are the heaviest and will work better.
I also have some Suzuki sportbike pegs that are smaller, that I'm going to try (yes, they fit, lol) vs the bigger stock GW pegs I just got to replace the floorboards it had...modding my Honda with Suzuki parts, lmao

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Got the beads to seat on the new tire (took 10 seconds with a bigger tank/enough volume, lol)
I put it on my balancer to check for any runout on the wheel or rotors, but they are thankfully all near perfect.
I checked the balance of the wheel for curiosity, as the wheels have the Centramatic auto balancers on them
(discs with and outer tube full of beads).
I could basically move the valve stem's position around the wheel (I put in a new 90° valve stem also), depending on where I placed a weight, it made no difference anywhere, lol, but an interesting test.
Time will tell on the mileage I get.
Given it's a rigid sport touring tire, Dunlop Elite 4, made for heavy bikes, I will keep the front at a minimum of 38psi cold.

20240523_212403.jpg
 
sixpack577 said:
Got the beads to seat on the new tire (took 10 seconds with a bigger tank/enough volume, lol)
I put it on my balancer to check for any runout on the wheel or rotors, but they are thankfully all near perfect.
I checked the balance of the wheel for curiosity, as the wheels have the Centramatic auto balancers on them
(discs with and outer tube full of beads).
I could basically move the valve stem's position around the wheel (I put in a new 90° valve stem also), depending on where I placed a weight, it made no difference anywhere, lol, but an interesting test.
Time will tell on the mileage I get.
Given it's a rigid sport touring tire, Dunlop Elite 4, made for heavy bikes, I will keep the front at a minimum of 38psi cold.

View attachment 1683769
Click to expand...
That Honda manual on the bench looks like a flight manual lol!
Nice wheel balancer, very similar to mine.
The rotors look small on that wheel.. diameter?
 
sixpack577 said:
I had also gotten 4 new 5.5" speakers, installed the front 2 in 30 seconds the other night.
Decided to put the back pair in last night...and found out those are 4.5's...with no room to go bigger...dummy, I should've looked first, lol, oh well, 4.5's are on the way now.
Click to expand...
Umm. I don't know what differences there may be but in mine you can dremel out the opening to get the 5.5s in. Honda says only 4s will fit. But I don't think many run 4s.
 
sixpack577 said:
Got the beads to seat on the new tire (took 10 seconds with a bigger tank/enough volume, lol)
I put it on my balancer to check for any runout on the wheel or rotors, but they are thankfully all near perfect.
I checked the balance of the wheel for curiosity, as the wheels have the Centramatic auto balancers on them
(discs with and outer tube full of beads).
I could basically move the valve stem's position around the wheel (I put in a new 90° valve stem also), depending on where I placed a weight, it made no difference anywhere, lol, but an interesting test.
Time will tell on the mileage I get.
Given it's a rigid sport touring tire, Dunlop Elite 4, made for heavy bikes, I will keep the front at a minimum of 38psi cold.

View attachment 1683769
Click to expand...

RM 465...








Soo bitchen! :bowdown:
 
202mphbusa said:
Went for my first ride in about five years on my 85 V-Max. Freaking blew a fuse about two miles from home. . Stole one from headlights and that one blew 1/4 mile later. Walked home. Got fuses. Wiggled a bunch of wiring around. And made it home. Gotta trace a short somewhere.
Also clutch is very draggy and lever is brutal
Click to expand...
Which fuse was it?
The clutch will need fresh fluid and a good bleed and sounds like the clutch plates are stuck together and might free up from riding it and slipping the clutch a bit.

I’ve been watching “Superbike Surgery” on YouTube, there’s been 3 V-Max Yamahas he’s featured, one after the other, with carburettor and electrical issues.

Two of them had gummed up carbs from sitting too long, the other had a CDI box that had a green and crusty pcb, anyway, these bikes had been taken to various workshops and no one could fix them.
Here’s the link… it’s interesting stuff,


I’ve worked on and test rode two V Maxes back in the late 90’s, great engines, not so sure about the suspension brakes and chassis, front end is long, soft and flexy with skinny forks and old school brakes, they were both early models and one of them was a show bike, amazing air brushed paint job and polished everything!
It’d been sitting for 12 years and I resurrected it. Thankfully it had been stored with empty fuel tank and drained carbs in a dry room in a modern house so it was relatively easy to reinstate.
They are classic old bikes and very cool.
 
Kiwi Rider said:
Which fuse was it?
The clutch will need fresh fluid and a good bleed and sounds like the clutch plates are stuck together and might free up from riding it and slipping the clutch a bit.

I’ve been watching “Superbike Surgery” on YouTube, there’s been 3 V-Max Yamahas he’s featured, one after the other, with carburettor and electrical issues.

Two of them had gummed up carbs from sitting too long, the other had a CDI box that had a green and crusty pcb, anyway, these bikes had been taken to various workshops and no one could fix them.
Here’s the link… it’s interesting stuff,


I’ve worked on and test rode two V Maxes back in the late 90’s, great engines, not so sure about the suspension brakes and chassis, front end is long, soft and flexy with skinny forks and old school brakes, they were both early models and one of them was a show bike, amazing air brushed paint job and polished everything!
It’d been sitting for 12 years and I resurrected it. Thankfully it had been stored with empty fuel tank and drained carbs in a dry room in a modern house so it was relatively easy to reinstate.
They are classic old bikes and very cool.
Click to expand...
Oh man I should start a thread on this. Gen 1 Busa brakes are a cheap mod. Monster fork brace. Racetech springs and cartridge emulators. Carbs completely rebuilt by a Vmax god. Who has a Vmax motor running on a stand and sends you a video of your carbs running. Brand new Hindle. Powder coated fork tubes.
 
202mphbusa said:
Oh man I should start a thread on this. Gen 1 Busa brakes are a cheap mod. Monster fork brace. Racetech springs and cartridge emulators. Carbs completely rebuilt by a Vmax god. Who has a Vmax motor running on a stand and sends you a video of your carbs running. Brand new Hindle. Powder coated fork tubes.
Click to expand...
Fuse was big wire off battery. Found a connector with exposed wire leading into the plastic plug. Couldn’t get the wire out of the connector. Cut and replace both ends.
 
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