What could I have possibly screwed up??

yzguyfl

Registered
I just got a 2006 hayabusa with some mods done (shaved head, cams, stretched, air shifter, and juice mainly).

It has a shift light set at 10500 rpm, and the limiter set at 10800. That was pretty close for me, if was not right on the shift button, I hit the limiter. The guy before me had a switch you could turn on, which would link the shift light signal to the air shifter, but when I tried it, it did not work. I was guessing that maybe the shift light signal was not carrying enough current to operate the air shifter, so I installed a relay, and connected the output of the shift light to the relay, and sent a solid ground output from the relay to the shifter. I tested the relay (grounding the shift signal, which is the trigger) and the relay and shifter work. (and also turned on the shift light, as this is also the shift signal)

I also installed the spedoDRD to correct the spedo, only had to set a -8% correction.

Now I have no shift light, or limiter!!! I took it out and ran it up to a little over 11.

The only time I have had it up that high before was at the track and it was at night, and I was not staring at the gauges, I was mainly going by the shift light. The gauge could be off I guess, and it might have been off before, but I don’t think it was going that high, and I did not want to rev it any higher.

Could it be the SpedoDRD?
The relay??

I would not think either of these would have caused the shift light or limiter not to work.
(BTW I also tried disconnecting the shift light output from the relay, so it was basically wired as before, and still no light or limiter before 11)
 
have you tried removing/undoing the recent additions: relay and speedoDRD? in short, return the bike to its state when eveyrtihng was working. best of luck.
 
Absolutely easy peasy. Remove the last mod before the problem occurred. Then go back to the drawing board.
 
I just got a 2006 hayabusa with some mods done (shaved head, cams, stretched, air shifter, and juice mainly).

It has a shift light set at 10500 rpm, and the limiter set at 10800. That was pretty close for me, if was not right on the shift button, I hit the limiter. The guy before me had a switch you could turn on, which would link the shift light signal to the air shifter, but when I tried it, it did not work. I was guessing that maybe the shift light signal was not carrying enough current to operate the air shifter, so I installed a relay, and connected the output of the shift light to the relay, and sent a solid ground output from the relay to the shifter. I tested the relay (grounding the shift signal, which is the trigger) and the relay and shifter work. (and also turned on the shift light, as this is also the shift signal)

I also installed the spedoDRD to correct the spedo, only had to set a -8% correction.

Now I have no shift light, or limiter!!! I took it out and ran it up to a little over 11.

The only time I have had it up that high before was at the track and it was at night, and I was not staring at the gauges, I was mainly going by the shift light. The gauge could be off I guess, and it might have been off before, but I don’t think it was going that high, and I did not want to rev it any higher.

Could it be the SpedoDRD?
The relay??

I would not think either of these would have caused the shift light or limiter not to work.
(BTW I also tried disconnecting the shift light output from the relay, so it was basically wired as before, and still no light or limiter before 11)
On a stock busa the rev limiter hits past 11 grand on the tach. The tach reads about 400rpm high. So when the 10,800 stock limiter kicks in, you're going to see over 11 showing.
 
I had not removed the SpedoDRD yet, as it was under the plastics U just put back on! but I did remove the relay (which puts that part back to the way it was)

I do have custom programming in the ECU, and something that changes the fuel when the nitrous is hit (some input to the computer, but not exactly sure what)

If you have ECU reflashing, and anything else hooked into the Gear Position Sensor, it may jack with the signal from the GPS.
why would the GPS have anything to do with the limiter or the shift light? isn't that just for the neutral light? (which BTW works fine)

oh, and while messing with something else, I may have found the issue, there was a loose power wire than ran to the nitrous relay, and to something else (did not track down what yet). Not sure how an added on power wire could mess up the rev limiter though...

So how high up on the tach can I go without blowing this thing up? I backed off just a little over 11 on the tach. Is going that high at the track ok? (kinda scares me, just got the bike don't want to blow it up, expecially when I start hitting the juice)
 
Your running the dog piss out of your bike on juice at the track and your worried about blowing it up? Your playing in a money game at the track. If you can't afford it shift at 10,000 and hope for the best on juice.
 
Your running the dog piss out of your bike on juice at the track and your worried about blowing it up? Your playing in a money game at the track. If you can't afford it shift at 10,000 and hope for the best on juice.

Well sort of... The bike was built to rev to about 11, and was tuned to be fairly "safe" on a small shot (which I have not even hit yet). I'm just concerned about doing something stupid. If somehow the limiter and shift light is messed up and the motor is allowed to go to 12K and over, I bet bad things will happen. I'm trying to avoid stupid and bad things....

it is one thing to squeeze a bit more power out of it that MANY have successfully had last for many miles, and it is another to rev it until smoke starts coming out.
 
the good news is that I did not mess anything up, I was just a bit to chicken. I let it go a bit higher and the shift light came on, and the shift almost worked. The problem is that it did not hold the relay long enough, it just pulled it up into neutral, and more good news, the rev limiter works to :)

so now all I have to do is add a little timer circuit in there to keep the relay held a bit longer.
 
Back
Top