Quick Shifter And Air Shifter Hybrid

[sjg34]

I currently am using a quick shifter and I have a shift light with a output for auto shift. I think I could add an air cylinder to the shifter linkage, use the shiftlight to trigger the air solenoid for an autoshift, and use the quick shifter to see the load and kill the ignition to allow the shift. Has anyone tried this?

 

[Dennis]

I don't like that idea. I've seen people have issues with the quickshifter not working every time. That would mean that you would be hitting the shift lever without a kill if the quickshifter misses a kill. Looks like in your pic you have a Gen-2, so you could just flash the ECU to do the kill for you. It's pretty simple to go that route.

 

[GNBRETT]

personally I can't live without my air shifter but I will warn you it WILL break ur balls to no end and u will be mother fukn it every other day. I wud stick with the quick shift if its working for u already. solenoids will leak, lines will leak, regulators will go bad and if u don't have a cycletek kill box ur F1 light will be triggered each time u shift which is terribly annoying but doesn't hurt anything.

and you will need a decent size C02 bottle for it to be worth while so if u don't have a swingarm with a built in tank holder ur gonna be filling up the Co2 often if using on the street if its the track then a decent size bottle shud last u all season. OR you cud go with a self filling pump and u cud have endless air and the cylinder is much smaller obviously https://store.schnitzracing.com/mps-mini-air-compressor/

or u cud opt for a swingarm with a built in air tank but I never liked those. they don't seem to hold enough air but two each his own.

 

[mjl3truck]

You could do something like this, never seen one so can't speak to how well or not they work or if you can wire it into an rpm controlled mode. They don't give them away!
http://www.pingelonline.com/electri...eed-shifter-kit-suzuki-gsx1300r-2008-2013.asp

 

[GNBRETT]

their HUGE! looks like a soda can mounted to the side of ur bike. if I was gonna go electric id go with this http://www.translogicusa.com/powershifters.php don't know anyone who has tried this tho so hav no idea how it works. I've known a few ppl to use the Pingel and do nothn but complain about how unreliable it is

but if I cud find one cheap I mite give the Pingel a shot cause my air shifter breaks my balls all the time in one way or another. I seen them for sale now and again but usually cause ppl are tired of sending it in to be fixed lol

You could do something like this, never seen one so can't speak to how well or not they work or if you can wire it into an rpm controlled mode. They don't give them away!
http://www.pingelonline.com/electri...eed-shifter-kit-suzuki-gsx1300r-2008-2013.asp

 

[sjg34]

If I use ECU editor to do the ignition kill will it still trip the F1 light?

The quick shifter has worked flawlessly to date. I have a couple of reasons for wanting the air shifter
One is I am currently running stock gearing and I am a little concerned when I change the gearing about getting my feet on the pegs for the 1-2 shift
The second is the auto shift option

One of the reasons I wanted to keep the quick shifter active is if I ever do have a problem with the air shifter I would have a backup. One of the guys racing this weekend developed a leak in his system and was struggling to maintain his tank pressure for the run.

 

[GNBRETT]

I have a Gen I so not sure if it trips it or not cause I don't use ECU editor. the auto shift won't work right in the 1-2 gear cause u can't change the RPM setting for each gear thru the shift light so you will want to short shift 1-2 cause if the rest is shifting at say 10,000 rpm u don't want first shifting at that RPM but then again I have a Turbo bike so its a little different.

there are other setups that allow u to set the RPM shift points in each gear. the NLR TIC box will do it and and few other ignition boxes like the MSD SB6

 

[Dennis]

My air shifter works fine. Just need to check the pressure every now and then.

 

[sjg34]

My air shifter works fine. Just need to check the pressure every now and then.

Do you trip the fuel injection light or is that not an issue on the gen 2?

 

[mjl3truck]

I've run the Q/S 2 different ways on my Gen II through the ECU and have not a problem that was not self induced for several years no F1 light.
There are 2 methods of doing it. One is to use a resistor in the switch wiring that plugs into the gps harness then program for resistor in the ECU like a Gen I. Downfall is you can't change kill times or be gear based etc. Or just run a switch into the DSM circuit with one side to ground and program either DSM1 or DSM2 in the quickshift portion of the ECU. I use my horn button when I'm racing production classes. Now here comes the WTF part. Woolich has decided in his most recent software, that automatically updates, to get rid of the Q/S option unless you buy his shifter with the "race tool$" package. Unless you have an older file saved that has the Q/S button you may be SOL. Since I have saved some of my old files I haven't had to deal with it and there may be a way around it if you are not using a foot shifter, I don't know.

 

[sjg34]

I've run the Q/S 2 different ways on my Gen II through the ECU and have not a problem that was not self induced for several years no F1 light.
There are 2 methods of doing it. One is to use a resistor in the switch wiring that plugs into the gps harness then program for resistor in the ECU like a Gen I. Downfall is you can't change kill times or be gear based etc. Or just run a switch into the DSM circuit with one side to ground and program either DSM1 or DSM2 in the quickshift portion of the ECU. I use my horn button when I'm racing production classes. Now here comes the WTF part. Woolich has decided in his most recent software, that automatically updates, to get rid of the Q/S option unless you buy his shifter with the "race tool$" package. Unless you have an older file saved that has the Q/S button you may be SOL. Since I have saved some of my old files I haven't had to deal with it and there may be a way around it if you are not using a foot shifter, I don't know.

I do have older bin files with the quick shifter functionality and I also have the new the new QS/racetools from woolich and the older one from Danos.
You mentioned you are using your horn button. Are you using it to actuate an air shifter?

 

[Dennis]

I use ECU kill on Gen-2 so FI light is not an issue.

I can adjust kill times with either the resistor or DSM trigger method. I prefer the DSM method because I have had a bike that didn't always make the kill with a resistor harness. I use ECU Editor to set up the shifter and nitrous. Woolich can read the ECU Editor file ... at least for now ... and doesn't mess with shifter or nitrous settings.

I use the horn button for trigger. I removed the horn and use the negative horn trigger on upper DSM and the solenoid. The hot horn wire goes to the solenoid.

 

[mjl3truck]

No I use the horn button only when I can't use the foot shift Q/S because of rules. I'll pre-load the shift lever and hit the horn button. If I was to do an air shifter I'd like to do it like Dennis says. I was kind of concerned that by running the ground for the DSM switch and the solenoid together it would cause issues but I'm glad to hear it doesn't.