Valve check, stuck starter clutch plug..

voodoodoo

voodoodoo

Registered
So i'm doing the valve check and the darn valve cover plug is stuck. Heated the engine before i tried to remove it but No luck. Bumped the starter to put the cams in the correct position and found out that ex nr4 has one valve off. 0.17mm. And intake nr 1 is at 0.008 wich is snug but ok.
All the others are ok but as i have to shim both the cams need to come out and according to the manual you have to "reverse" the crank 180 degrees when refitting the camchain and tensioner to tighten the slack in the camchain ..

Possible to put it in 6th gear and turn the rear wheel?
 
voodoodoo said:
So i'm doing the valve check and the darn valve cover plug is stuck. Heated the engine before i tried to remove it but No luck. Bumped the starter to put the cams in the correct position and found out that ex nr4 has one valve off. 0.17mm. And intake nr 1 is at 0.008 wich is snug but ok.
All the others are ok but as i have to shim both the cams need to come out and according to the manual you have to "reverse" the crank 180 degrees when refitting the camchain and tensioner to tighten the slack in the camchain ..

Possible to put it in 6th gear and turn the rear wheel?
Click to expand...
As scary as it is I've had to use an allen socket and my small cordless impact (it's 3/8 drive and has less torque then my other ones) to remove that plug in a couple bikes, my buddies gixxer 750 had me afraid i was gonna break the cover because i had to break out the big breaker bar to get it loose. Another old school truck i was taught is to give it a tap with a hammer to free up the threads before trying to loosen it but obviously you have to be really careful with that. It's ridiculous how tight they seem to get,if your having to pull the cams I would definitely make sure u get that plug out to make the job go a little smoother.
 
voodoodoo said:
(...)

Possible to put it in 6th gear and turn the rear wheel?
Click to expand...
watch the right side of the engine

there is a big alu plug (dia ~ 40mm or so) with an inside allen in its middle

if the allen-tool does not grip but turns round in the plug, as very often happens, you have no other chance but to chisel the plug out

that for at first you need a notch in the stopper approx. 2-3 mm deep and going from the allen key to the edge
then put the chisel or a very large screwdriver in there and loosen the plug with a 500 gram hammer with some mid-hard hits.

when out you find a 14mm screw had to turn the crank

but always only clockwise

to avoid all mistakes, download the correct manual ! please ;)
for gen1
www.hayabusa.org

Hayabusa not charging | Busa problems

Hey guys trying to see if yall can help me out again. My bike isnt charging. It was holding 12.6 before now itll drop about .1v every 2 seconds or so even holding it at or above 4.5k. Would the stator or rectifier need to be replaced? Or both. Also i had to replace the harness a while back and...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
or for gen2

Free Scooter electronic wiring diagram workshop service manual!

Workshop Service Manual for a Scooter electronic wiring diagram, free download from carlsalter.com
www.carlsalter.com

and if you have a computer in the workshop you can use one of my two excel-sheets to calculate the valve gaps / shims (never again you step the trap of mis-calculating)

for gen1

for gen2

NOTE :
to avoid / prevent important calculations from being deleted when first opened and tested, both tables are protected - without a password - .
this minimal protection is fairly easy to remove via "extras" / "protection" / "disable protection" in the excel menu.
 
Have the manual, and downloaded your valve shim calc sheet.

To hell with the plug.. Tried one last effort with heat and 11mm hex and some valve grind paste but its not moving. I will order a new plug with a nut for next valve Job in approx 3 years..

Put the bike in 6th gear and turned the rear wheel until it is on the mark, a bit more fiddly but no problem.. I have plenty of time. So far so good.
Shim kit is on its way so i will adjust the valves next weekend. Haven't done it in 10 years. Had a ZX9r back then.
Going to remove the camshafts one at a time to do the job. Replacing 3 shims. 2 on the ex and 1 one the in.

Just got a the message that my fairings/wheels are finished at the paint shop
 
Valve adjustments would be So Much easier if there was just a little more room to work between the frame rails.
I bought an 02 gsxr600 for a flip almost a year ago(one owner, under 14k miles, good shape).
I was So Happy when all the valves checked in spec! lol
 
Berlin Germany said:
watch the right side of the engine

there is a big alu plug (dia ~ 40mm or so) with an inside allen in its middle

if the allen-tool does not grip but turns round in the plug, as very often happens, you have no other chance but to chisel the plug out

that for at first you need a notch in the stopper approx. 2-3 mm deep and going from the allen key to the edge
then put the chisel or a very large screwdriver in there and loosen the plug with a 500 gram hammer with some mid-hard hits.

when out you find a 14mm screw had to turn the crank

but always only clockwise

to avoid all mistakes, download the correct manual ! please ;)
for gen1
www.hayabusa.org

Hayabusa not charging | Busa problems

Hey guys trying to see if yall can help me out again. My bike isnt charging. It was holding 12.6 before now itll drop about .1v every 2 seconds or so even holding it at or above 4.5k. Would the stator or rectifier need to be replaced? Or both. Also i had to replace the harness a while back and...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
or for gen2

Free Scooter electronic wiring diagram workshop service manual!

Workshop Service Manual for a Scooter electronic wiring diagram, free download from carlsalter.com
www.carlsalter.com

and if you have a computer in the workshop you can use one of my two excel-sheets to calculate the valve gaps / shims (never again you step the trap of mis-calculating)

for gen1

for gen2

NOTE :
to avoid / prevent important calculations from being deleted when first opened and tested, both tables are protected - without a password - .
this minimal protection is fairly easy to remove via "extras" / "protection" / "disable protection" in the excel menu.
Click to expand...
As to the counterclockwise rotation i'm refering to the rotation stated in the manual that says to turn the crank 180 degrees counterclockwise after installing the cam chain tensioner...
 

Attachments

  • manual s261.pdf
    564.7 KB · Views: 92
Last edited:
GIXERHP said:
I always heat the inspection cap with a torch, as well as i keep the caps in stock, because they stick!
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20220131-233600.png
 
voodoodoo said:
As to the counterclockwise rotation i'm refering to the rotation stated in the manual that says to turn the crank 180 degrees counterclockwise after installing the cam chain tensioner...
Click to expand...

hi buddy

i have no clue where your description comes from
but mine is from the original suzuki service manual
and at pages 0B-5 and 0B-6 (see pdf in the attachement) they write clockwise (just like in my german version)

and this makes sense because when ever one turns the crank it should be turned that way that pulls the chain "side" without the tensioneer.
in other words, you have to turn the crankshaft so that the side facing away from the chain tensioner is pulled.

otherwise there is a very high risk that the timing chain will jump one tooth over and the timing will no longer be correct

and with the necessary experience, it becomes clear that you don't have to unscrew the small stopper - it's enough if the big one is out alone.
it is perfectly sufficient to position the cams almost perpendicularly to the tappets and then determine the valve clearance - the 180° semicircle on the side facing away from the cams makes this possible.
then you can simply turn the crankshaft (hex tool 14 mm + ratchet) far enough to measure the next pair of valves.
i personally allways start with cylinder 1 with the exhaust side and go to cyl. 2 then no 3 up to cylinder 4 (simply following the order in my table)
to then switch to the intake side and measure everything from 1 to 4 again and write them down in my excel table after each measurement.
ok you have to turn the crankshaft twice as often on my way, but you can never get confused in the order and you are very sure that you have really measured all the valves.

good luck with your job :)
 

Attachments

  • clockwise.pdf
    356.3 KB · Views: 107
Bigboy Busa2 said:
View attachment 1646592
Click to expand...

yes this plug looks stable with its allen
but 36$ per piece + shipping ?
man that is exepensive - the final question is what alu it is made of - a 7045 or so?

if the plug´s allen is worn/demaged and he don´t want to use a chisel my friend´s solution is to drill two holes in the plug to be able to use the key for changing the angle grinder´s discs and then to take a new plug for around 10.50 € per piece or 12.66$ at partzilla.


additional info
this plug fits really ALL hayabusa - even at the new gen3 ;)
 
Last edited:
Berlin Germany said:
yes this plug looks stable with its allen
but 36$ per piece + shipping ?
man that is exepensive - the final question is what alu it is made of - a 7045 or so?

if the plug´s allen is worn/demaged and he don´t want to use a chisel my friend´s solution is to drill two holes in the plug to be able to use the key for changing the angle grinder´s discs and then to take a new plug for around 10.50 € per piece or 12.66$ at partzilla.


additional info
this plug fits really ALL hayabusa - even at the new gen3 ;)
Click to expand...

I agree on the clockwise rotation, i have never rotated counterclockwise on any other bike ever.. But since it was 10years since the last time i did this job on a bike i was "stupid" enough to read the manual and it made me confused.. The counterclockwise part is in the engine mechanical 1d-40 chapter. Page 261 in my manual.
Leaving the stripped hex plug for now as rotting the crank trough rear wheel work just fine. Ordering a new plug and a gasket for the starter clutch cover to have it ready for next "encounter".

Need to have the valves in order for the trip to Adenau/Nordschleife in May.. After a 2 year covid break its about time .
 
Berlin Germany said:
yes this plug looks stable with its allen
but 36$ per piece + shipping ?
man that is exepensive - the final question is what alu it is made of - a 7045 or so?

if the plug´s allen is worn/demaged and he don´t want to use a chisel my friend´s solution is to drill two holes in the plug to be able to use the key for changing the angle grinder´s discs and then to take a new plug for around 10.50 € per piece or 12.66$ at partzilla.


additional info
this plug fits really ALL hayabusa - even at the new gen3 ;)
Click to expand...
Yes. A hundred ways to do it. This one is $36 and you don't have to do anything. I'm on my 3rd plug and I dont have the Allen cap. Some people like convenience and willing to pay for it, stop a minute and think about it
 
voodoodoo said:
(...)
Need to have the valves in order for the trip to Adenau/Nordschleife in May.. After a 2 year covid break its about time .
Click to expand...
Nordschleife ? Nürburgring? the "green hell" ?

man - yes thatfor you need the best maintained bike ever.
and not only the valve clearance but also the entire chassis bearings and fork oil + all other fluids

among friends of the busa ;)
suggestion : (not 100% serious said but close to)
norway / berlin / adenau - would be a detour of around 500 km and an additional three days in my workshop. may cost a bit,
but then your busa should be maintained to the maximum and be 100% fit for the nordschleife.
 
Berlin Germany said:
Nordschleife ? Nürburgring? the "green hell" ?

man - yes thatfor you need the best maintained bike ever.
and not only the valve clearance but also the entire chassis bearings and fork oil + all other fluids

among friends of the busa ;)
suggestion : (not 100% serious said but close to)
norway / berlin / adenau - would be a detour of around 500 km and an additional three days in my workshop. may cost a bit,
but then your busa should be maintained to the maximum and be 100% fit for the nordschleife.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer...
The fluids are new, the brakelines are new, the brake discs are new, Front forks serviced and with new oil. The bearings have been checked. Chain&sprockets changed last year. Only need to fix the valves and she is good to go...

Next to be changed are the rear shock.. Probably a nitron or a wilbers.

I have been many many times to the nordschleife so i'm comfortable riding there. Staying clear of the busy days its quite safe. I never do laptimes anymore, my" BTG timetrials" are over. i managed a 8.02 with my zx9r and a 8.13 with the zzr1400... Nowadays i'm more of a 9.00 cruising around type of guy :0)

The parts for the valve adjust have arrived at my mailbox so i'll give it a go during the weekend. The fairings has also arrived but i think i will give them a ceramic coating before mounting them.
 
Last edited:
@voodoodoo

well then your bike is techn. best prepared - congs

but did you ever test the change in the chassis
by lowering the front 15 mm and lifting the tail 20 mm (or 30) ?

no? then try it and you will think you got a new bike ,
so handy the busa becomes even with the standard handlebar and
the straight-line stability is not affected in any way - even over 260 km per h.

the lowering-how-to at the front you can read here at my homepage, rear is logical -by rockers.
gen 1 :
10 mm shorter occur a 20 mm rear lift, 15 mm a 30 mm lift - the ratio is at gen1 1 : 2
(gen2 ! 1 : 2,3 ! - ratio values all from wilbers)

and i recommend also a 760mm wide superbike bar
even at "Döttinger Höhe" (max high speed) - no problems even over 260 km per h - the busa still stay stable. you only feel a bit more "pressure" at your arms (for that 2 minutes) .
 
Berlin Germany said:
@voodoodoo

well then your bike is techn. best prepared - congs

but did you ever test the change in the chassis
by lowering the front 15 mm and lifting the tail 20 mm (or 30) ?

no? then try it and you will think you got a new bike ,
so handy the busa becomes even with the standard handlebar and
the straight-line stability is not affected in any way - even over 260 km per h.

the lowering-how-to at the front you can read here at my homepage, rear is logical -by rockers.
gen 1 :
10 mm shorter occur a 20 mm rear lift, 15 mm a 30 mm lift - the ratio is at gen1 1 : 2
(gen2 ! 1 : 2,3 ! - ratio values all from wilbers)

and i recommend also a 760mm wide superbike bar
even at "Döttinger Höhe" (max high speed) - no problems even over 260 km per h - the busa still stay stable. you only feel a bit more "pressure" at your arms (for that 2 minutes) .
Click to expand...
On my gen1 Busa i had 20mm tail riser plus 190/55-17 rear tyre. Also had the mv verholen superbike risers...
One big problem with the Busa going fast is the ground clearance, scrubbing the fairings at max lean/compression.. Alltough much better than the zzr1400 its Still a big and wide bike so lowering the front is not an option for me If you compress the front end properly by trailbraiking its more than enough...
Shortening the chain to put the rear wheel inward in the swing arm also helps a lot.

Superbike bar might be effective but the looks of it......
 
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