Turbo 24v start
- Thread starter Dnyce
- Start date
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi. I have the Antigravity 32 ah 880 cranking amps.
Berlin Germany
Registered
why the heck 24 volts?
what for?
and what a, in my view, useless waste of money to expect ?
the 400 hp buddy´s , street legal , turbo-busa has the standard yuasa AGM with 180cca on board
and everything woks fine.
in town / at country roads / at the highway - everywhere .
or do u wanna use urs at the 1/4 or 1/2 mile track, without any generator?
what for?
and what a, in my view, useless waste of money to expect ?
the 400 hp buddy´s , street legal , turbo-busa has the standard yuasa AGM with 180cca on board
and everything woks fine.
in town / at country roads / at the highway - everywhere .
or do u wanna use urs at the 1/4 or 1/2 mile track, without any generator?
Berlin Germany
Registered
plus ignition
btw:
did u ever summarized all amperes / volts of these parts , the running engine, need while a run over a 1/2 (or 1) mile ?
sorry, but have you ever thought about how much electricity the generator can deliver to the battery over this oh so long distance and by how much it can actually be charged,
or how much power such a generator delivers?
experience has resulted in the fact that a generator is only able to charge a battery
that is only half full over a really long distance to around 75% - and i'm talking about a distance of well over 100 miles here,
because of the generator does not have this great performance.
neither at motorcycles nor cars or trucks - nowhere & never
it's a nonsense to think that you can charge the battery on the race track.
you can never avoid having several fully charged batteries with you or somehow recharging the one that was built in after each run.
and with the turbo with the generally reduced compression, it takes a lot less power to turn/start the engine,
so that even a 6Ah lifepo (12V) is completely sufficient.
a good friend drives with a yamaha fj1200 on the circuit with a kind of plug-in system
after each training sessions and after each race he simply puts a second, recharged battery in the motorcycle and has power on board again for more than 30 minutes.
and because of the CCA - the 6Ah lifepo has around 360 CCA which is perfectly sufficient to be able to start even a small (2 liter) diesel.
ur idea of 24 volts in my view will only cause lots of issues
first - where to get the 24 V ignition coil u would need ?
and second - a 24 V starter / ecu / etc.
and what to do if one of these super special 24 V parts fail / crack at race place?
in my view ur nuts if u wanna follow that 24 v - plan further on.
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi. I have an 880 cranking amp battery that is going in my bike.plus ignition
btw:
did u ever summarized all amperes / volts of these parts , the running engine, need while a run over a 1/2 (or 1) mile ?
sorry, but have you ever thought about how much electricity the generator can deliver to the battery over this oh so long distance and by how much it can actually be charged,
or how much power such a generator delivers?
experience has resulted in the fact that a generator is only able to charge a battery
that is only half full over a really long distance to around 75% - and i'm talking about a distance of well over 100 miles here,
because of the generator does not have this great performance.
neither at motorcycles nor cars or trucks - nowhere & never
it's a nonsense to think that you can charge the battery on the race track.
you can never avoid having several fully charged batteries with you or somehow recharging the one that was built in after each run.
and with the turbo with the generally reduced compression, it takes a lot less power to turn/start the engine,
so that even a 6Ah lifepo (12V) is completely sufficient.
a good friend drives with a yamaha fj1200 on the circuit with a kind of plug-in system
after each training sessions and after each race he simply puts a second, recharged battery in the motorcycle and has power on board again for more than 30 minutes.
and because of the CCA - the 6Ah lifepo has around 360 CCA which is perfectly sufficient to be able to start even a small (2 liter) diesel.
ur idea of 24 volts in my view will only cause lots of issues
first - where to get the 24 V ignition coil u would need ?
and second - a 24 V starter / ecu / etc.
and what to do if one of these super special 24 V parts fail / crack at race place?
in my view ur nuts if u wanna follow that 24 v - plan further on.
202mphbusa
Registered
@Berlin Germany 24 v start you just cut the lead from the starter solinoid and put a little 12v battery in series
only starter sees 24v
and after 5 years with a high comp 1397 starter lived fine
only starter sees 24v
and after 5 years with a high comp 1397 starter lived fine
Yea what he said ^^^
I know how to wire it, just worried about hot lapping it, hot starts, etc. I know less compression should make it easier but still wanted to ask if anyone ever had issues. Sounds like I’m gtg with one.
Keeping the charging system bcuz it was recommended for less of a voltage drop during a pass, I know I’ll still have to charge it periodically between races.
I know how to wire it, just worried about hot lapping it, hot starts, etc. I know less compression should make it easier but still wanted to ask if anyone ever had issues. Sounds like I’m gtg with one.
Keeping the charging system bcuz it was recommended for less of a voltage drop during a pass, I know I’ll still have to charge it periodically between races.
202mphbusa
Registered
When I ran a 24v start on my daily ridden high comp 1397 I went close to a month without charging my second battery to see what issues I would run into, FINALLY charged it cause I felt guilty, not cause it wasn't starting
fast forward a few years and I was having a INSANLY hard start problem bike would crank and crank only sounding like it was going to catch right as I relea-ed the starter button, SO I tried 24 volt start on my turbo, ran it that way for a year and it didn't help MY issue
but man 8.5-1 comp 24 volt start HOLY SHNIKEYS it cranked insane
Whoops! Double post,
No need for it with your setup. Better battery and just tossing the tender on it between passes is good enough. I've been doing that with my PS bike and no issues. I still have lights, run electric water pump for my icebox and intercooler.... etc.
BUT, if you want it for peace of mind, might as well... not gonna hurt anything (except possibly the starting motor years down the road).
No need for it with your setup. Better battery and just tossing the tender on it between passes is good enough. I've been doing that with my PS bike and no issues. I still have lights, run electric water pump for my icebox and intercooler.... etc.
BUT, if you want it for peace of mind, might as well... not gonna hurt anything (except possibly the starting motor years down the road).
202mphbusa
Registered
I do not remember which it was. I went into a local batteries plus and asked for the smallest 12v AGM battery they had, it was LITTLE
cranking amps on second battery does not matter first bat has the amps and the second just doubles the Voltage
Man I miss DaveO on a discussion about this
Guy had a degree in electrical engineering degree and threw it away to work on motorcycles
I use an Antigravity Small Case 8-Cell Lithium-Ion Battery AG-801
