Tuners out there opinions please. 08 dyno numbers seem low

nitro71455

Registered
Hey All,

I dynoed my 08 today. The numbers were what I would expect out of more of a stock bike. Granted I'm at 4500FT and it was hot, however the SAE corrects for altitude. Best pull was 170HP and 101FT. Bike is stock with the exception of Full Yosh R77 4-2-1 pipe and ECU editor. Pulls were made in 4th Gear. Here's some shots of the Charts.


Are these numbers typical of a stock bike with a full R77? What tweaks can I make to get the Peak power up?

1339539632.jpg


1339539648.jpg
 
Seems low. Did you actually get dyno work done or just pulls to see what HP is?
 
Hey Big E,

manly just pulls to see where I'm at. I've been playing with ECU Editor, and I actually always tune my own stuff. I took out a couple of fat spots during the dyno session, but I'm wondering what can be done add power if anything? It was my understanding that when adding a pipe, dyno tuning is just used to make sure power stays fluid and smooth throughout the RPM range and Throttle position?

Can any tuners hop on here and let me know what I can safely tweak to unleash more power?

Any help / incite on tweaks would be greatly appreciated.

--Rich
 
Mine. 09

Full tiforce
BMC race air filter

Base line run made 172. After tuning session using ecu editor. She made 182. This was on a land and sea dyno.
 
So the base was with the Pipe and Filter before any tweaks via ECU editor?

Do you know what all the tuner did? Can you send me a copy of your tune so I can compare it with mine?
 
Hey Big E,

manly just pulls to see where I'm at. I've been playing with ECU Editor, and I actually always tune my own stuff. I took out a couple of fat spots during the dyno session, but I'm wondering what can be done add power if anything? It was my understanding that when adding a pipe, dyno tuning is just used to make sure power stays fluid and smooth throughout the RPM range and Throttle position?

Can any tuners hop on here and let me know what I can safely tweak to unleash more power?

Any help / incite on tweaks would be greatly appreciated.

--Rich

I was speaking with my tuner this past weekend about dyno numbers and he told me that different dyno jet dynos put out different numbers. Where I get my Busa tuned the numbers are approximately 8% lower then tuners using a dyno jet 250. However your dyno numbers depend on a lot of factors: altitude, tire pressure, how the bike is strapped down, humidity, etc. I guess the most that you can do to truly gauge your bike is to compare what your bike was originally putting out versus what it is putting out now.
 
Is that 91F, 25 in Hg, 8%RH. That's so far from standard air that correction factors don't apply much. That's crap air.
But, if that's the air you ride in that's what you have to work with.

If I was going to squeeze what I could out of that motor, I first start with low octane fuel (87) with minimal / no ethanol if you have it in your area. Raise the limiter on your motor to 11,300 so that you can pull all the way to 11. It won't make any more power over 10.5 with a stock head, but you'll get more area under the curve. Get your A/F as lean as you dare to 13.3 to 13.5. Then add timing a degree at a time until power starts to drop. These motors are pretty high compression ratio, but they make more power on the lean side depending on the fuel you get. Stock timing is pretty conservative, so adding 2 degrees from 7 to 10k can make a difference. Unfortunately there can be HUGE differences in fuel unless you buy it at the track in a 5 gallon pail. Good luck.
 
Is that 91F, 25 in Hg, 8%RH. That's so far from standard air that correction factors don't apply much. That's crap air.
But, if that's the air you ride in that's what you have to work with.

If I was going to squeeze what I could out of that motor, I first start with low octane fuel (87) with minimal / no ethanol if you have it in your area. Raise the limiter on your motor to 11,300 so that you can pull all the way to 11. It won't make any more power over 10.5 with a stock head, but you'll get more area under the curve. Get your A/F as lean as you dare to 13.3 to 13.5. Then add timing a degree at a time until power starts to drop. These motors are pretty high compression ratio, but they make more power on the lean side depending on the fuel you get. Stock timing is pretty conservative, so adding 2 degrees from 7 to 10k can make a difference. Unfortunately there can be HUGE differences in fuel unless you buy it at the track in a 5 gallon pail. Good luck.

Thanks Draco1340, that's the kind of info I was looking for. I won't go so lean, but I'll add some timing for sure.!
 
Hey Big E,

manly just pulls to see where I'm at. I've been playing with ECU Editor, and I actually always tune my own stuff. I took out a couple of fat spots during the dyno session, but I'm wondering what can be done add power if anything? It was my understanding that when adding a pipe, dyno tuning is just used to make sure power stays fluid and smooth throughout the RPM range and Throttle position?

Can any tuners hop on here and let me know what I can safely tweak to unleash more power?

Any help / incite on tweaks would be greatly appreciated.

--Rich

NOT A TUNER. If you're running the factory O2 sensor the bike should be taking care of itself. From memory your pipe probably gave you a 3 to 5 RWHP gain as posted on the Yosh website, but there's other benefits to the pipe. Weight loss, looks, sound. My understanding is that the pipes that make big power require a tune to correct for a lean condition caused by the increased flow through the motor. That's why they put larger jets in the carbs on carbed motors. A tuner will increase fuel to correct the A/F on a Fuel Injected bike.

I've been debating the tune issue myself. I might just have to come off the money, even though all I do is ride around on mine. :laugh:
 
seems low to me . my zx10 puts out 164 at back wheel . so hoping for 177 or 178 with the busa when i get round to it
 
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