True cruise control

hhmmm now I am confused....
laugh.gif


btw.... throttlemiester AND the AV unit?
 
Haven't heard much on this subject lately, I was following this for awhile and plan on doing it one of these days.
Here are a couple of other links on them.





If you do a cruise install let us know how it goes. pics and all.
 
Can I use the vaccum hose that was hook up to air actuator for my air box, I did the air box mod and have that hose plugged up?  Also can you hook up the blue tach wire to any of the wires on the four coils?  Thanks
 
I have mine hooked to the pair valve source. If you did the pair mod, I'd go there. I don't know how much vaccum is pulled at the actuator. Any of the coils will work for the tach wire. Its easier to connect at the EMU than at the coils.
 
thanks for the info, what is the PAIR mod?? I have the bike ripped apart, now would be the time to do it I would think, what are the benefits of the PAIR mod?
 
Also, I forgot to ask, what do I do with the Black/Grey pair of wires, according the diagram those wires are being used. I hope thats the case
 
Question! Do you need the one with the magnet kit or can you do it without. About a $40 price diff in the kits.
 
I wired up the CC and hooked the vaccum up to the PAIR vaccum.
The servo won't pull the cable at all. I check at the servo that all wires are getting the +12V when on and set/resume are pressed.

I tapped in to one of the coli wires at the ECU. the white/blue one.(coil 1)

I think the servo is bad.

Can someone tell me if they are in neutral and turn the CC on and hit SET then ACCEL will servo will engage/move the throttle?

Thanks
 
I've never played with mine with the bike in neutral. Did you follow the troubleshooting guide in the manual? Also, what are your dip switch settings?
 
SW 1 & 4 are ON.

I picked up a 2nd unit and it's doing the same.
I even tried using the vacuum off all 4 TB instead of the PAIR.
I have a vacuum res with a check valve.

The cable won't pull even without the TB loop connected.
 
OK, Make sure you have the jumper removed to tell it you have a manual transmission. Change your dip switch settings to

SW1 - off
SW2 - off
SW3 - off
SW4 - on
SW5 - off
SW6 - off
SW7 - on

That should get things working for you.  You'll probably need to road test it.  I don't think running it in neutral in the garage is going to work.
 
Will these dip switch settings work for the GenII?





Pipefighter248 said:
The best place to mount the servo unit is in the rear section on the right side of the bike. There is already a bolt hole there that can be used with the bolt picked up at autozone.
You have to remove the bracket already mounted to the unit, cut off some excess and bend it to look like the pic below.

Before mounting the servo motor, you will have to change some setting on it.
Remove the little plastic cover on it held by two small phillips screws. You need to remove the jumper beside the dip switches to let the unit know it is being installed on a manual transmission.
Set the switches as shown below.

SW1 ON Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW2 OFF Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW3 OFF Set the Speed Signal for Tach Only
SW4 ON LOW sensitivity (I had good luck with LOW, you may try MEDIUM if you have any problems)
SW5 OFF LOW sensitivity
SW6 OFF To use the included Control Pad
SW7 ON Select“coilâ€￾ as the source of timing pulses



<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1142710685 -->
Click to expand...
 
I'm about to install a cruise on my 05. Are these units still working well? Are the vacuum check valves and vacuum canister required or will it work without them? Are these the settings everyone is using?

SW1 ON Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW2 OFF Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW3 OFF Set the Speed Signal for Tach Only
SW4 ON LOW sensitivity
SW5 OFF LOW sensitivity
SW6 OFF To use the included Control Pad
SW7 ON Select“coil” as the source of timing pulses
 
VFRcanada said:
I'm about to install a cruise on my 05. Are these units still working well? Are the vacuum check valves and vacuum canister required or will it work without them? Are these the settings everyone is using?

SW1 ON Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW2 OFF Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW3 OFF Set the Speed Signal for Tach Only
SW4 ON LOW sensitivity
SW5 OFF LOW sensitivity
SW6 OFF To use the included Control Pad
SW7 ON Select“coil” as the source of timing pulses
Click to expand...

Holding up real well, After 1 season it still works great.
check valve recommended, but not needed
vacuum canister is needed
I used the below settings per Busawhipped.. copy and pasted from post #93


OK, Make sure you have the jumper removed to tell it you have a manual transmission. Change your dip switch settings to

SW1 - off
SW2 - off
SW3 - off
SW4 - on
SW5 - off
SW6 - off
SW7 - on

That should get things working for you. You'll probably need to road test it. I don't think running it in neutral in the garage is going to work.


:thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
I've been using mine for 4 years and its pretty much bullet proof. Like DR1300R said, you cannot test it in the garage in neutral. You do not need the vacuum canister of check valve, but it will make the curie control more smooth and stable.
 
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