Touring Hayabusa
- Thread starter MR X
- Start date
I use Helibars, Pazzio adjustable clutch and brake levers (your fingers will get stiff after hour after hour of braking and clutching and adjusting the levers is great when you lose some of your strength in your fingers) , steel braided brake lines (much better feel), Throttlemeisters for relief on your throttle hand, Tobin Seat for comfort (although some like the corbin better), and lowering the pegs (I change to TL1000R pegs which is a direct swap). I also reccomend you change to a HID light and a powerport for heated vest (NIGHTS GET COLD
), and for you (a resident Canook) heated grips. Also I use a GOOD GPS, but you need to know what you want it to do or you can pay $$$$$ lots more than you need. For me, the ability to talk on a cell phone and or listening to music is a NO-NO on a bike. Others
, well they do what they want, I want to concentrate and late at night you'll need all the concentration you can muster up on a 1000 mile day. Other than that, HYDRATE at least the day before and for 2 days if possible.
If your going on one of the Iron Butt single rides
, read their web site and look up the advice thread. Also, pre plan you trip in DETAIL. Including fuel stops, roads, times you want to go through citys, cross international borders, etc. and any eating breaks. Then KNOW it and DON'T change on the trip unless absolutely required. Remember when you get tired, you'll question yourself so just stick with your orginal plan, just make sure it's completely thought out. On a single, I also reccomend you add about 20 additional miles to the trip to make sure you certify. It's a real PAIN
if you miss it by 2 miles (there is NO ACCEPTIONS, you make it or your don't) . Keep a zip bag in your tank bag (you do have a tank bag
) for ALL YOUR GAS RECEIPTS ! And make sure you UNDERSTAND all the rules and regs ! If you want, E-Mail me and I'll give you more advice on keeping up your speed. Because unlike most think, IT'S NOT A RACE !! If your going on one of the Iron Butt rallys, well, they will give you all the advice and encouragement you need, along with the route already made for you. And if you do one of the Rallys, for the first time, PLEASE just try to do the basic route and FINISH. You can always compete on your next one, the first is just a LEARNING rally. A lot of people start and try to beat riders who have been doing this for years. And what happens is they get frustrated and quit. Just call the Rally Master pryor to entering for all the information.
Anything else, PM me and I'll try to help !
If your going on one of the Iron Butt single rides
Anything else, PM me and I'll try to help !
There are 1000's of sub topics related to long distance...and long distance on Hayabusas. My "right now" idea is the install of a 0-6" swingarm (Canadian Mike on this board). Besides the MANY performance aspects of both long and short wheelbase motorcycles, one thing about "long" is stability/comfort/slower steering for extended mileage. The 0-6" adjustibility aspect allows the owner to have a sport bike that converts to drag racing and touring configurations as desired. Just one opinion! Raydog
CanadienMike
Registered
Long distance essentials for me: Corbin seats (backrest for passenger) / extended touring windscreen (or at least double bubble) / soft throw-on saddlebags (with friction proctection for straps against tail sides)
Mike B
Mike B
I have 1 thousand mile day and 4 days over 750 this last year..
Helibars, Buell pegs, DB windscreen and a "real" cruise control (Rostra).. I also take a couple Advil prior to launch and every 6 or so hours... I have a stock seat... that needs to go next..
Helibars, Buell pegs, DB windscreen and a "real" cruise control (Rostra).. I also take a couple Advil prior to launch and every 6 or so hours... I have a stock seat... that needs to go next..
I haven't heard of that one. How does it install and how well does it work?
Touring for me is not about covering a certain distance. I have done a few 700+ mile days on the busa and a couple Harley's. I however like to have No real plan at all, kinda a general direction but no plan. Stop when I want, take lots of pics and go till I get tired.
As for the bike, I installed a tall touring screen last spring but didnt notice much diff over my DB. I have pazzo's, heli's a set of throttle meister and heated grips are so choice! Adjustable rear sets and a gel seat, soft saddle bags. I get giddy just thinkin about hittin the road again.
As for the bike, I installed a tall touring screen last spring but didnt notice much diff over my DB. I have pazzo's, heli's a set of throttle meister and heated grips are so choice! Adjustable rear sets and a gel seat, soft saddle bags. I get giddy just thinkin about hittin the road again.
suzuki4life
Banned
Look into the convertibars, corbin seat and the buell pegs
Then luggage, a set of soft bags on the back or a rack system if you plan to ride 2 up and a tank bag is a necessity.
THEN, I personally would safety wire things like my drain plug, service my chain and double check all fluids and tire pressure before even considering a trip. Breaking down in a car sucks, but you have people to come get you at a simple phone call. A bike isn't so easy.
And let's not forget to carry PLENTY of insurance. Taht is somethign we take for granted but willl eliminate MANY headaches if something would happen.
Then luggage, a set of soft bags on the back or a rack system if you plan to ride 2 up and a tank bag is a necessity.
THEN, I personally would safety wire things like my drain plug, service my chain and double check all fluids and tire pressure before even considering a trip. Breaking down in a car sucks, but you have people to come get you at a simple phone call. A bike isn't so easy.
And let's not forget to carry PLENTY of insurance. Taht is somethign we take for granted but willl eliminate MANY headaches if something would happen.
99vette
Registered
aww 36. i did that ride on my 600rr. i think i like 299 a little better. but ya i'm with you, i just pick a direction and go.
Its the same as the AudioVox with different branding.
Modifications to the Busa: 1 1/4" bar risers to relieve back strain, TL1000 pegs for more leg room, AudioVox Cruise Control so I can rest the throttle hand, ZG double bubble screen for better wind protection, +1 front sprocket for reduced vibration.
No its not.. Audiovox is vacuum and the Rostra is electric with no vacuum..
What DR1300R said, the Rostra is a full electronic and costs easily twice as much as the Audiovox100 (Audiovox is actually made by Rostra FWIW) I just did not want to deal with the vacuum canister so went full electric.
You can do the vacuum version for under $120 and the full electronic will cost you $250
You can do the vacuum version for under $120 and the full electronic will cost you $250
Is it made especially for motorcycles? How easy is it to install?
They are both automotive units adapted to bikes. I can only speak for the Rostra Electronic unit for install and how it works. I was worried about the vacuum unit not holding on longer hills.
Install took about 2 hours (not including research and the legwork to get parts and the time it took to establish the dip switch settings (I posted all this information on a thread)
The unit is rock solid at 55+ and will show a 3-5 mph gain up and down some hills. At speeds above 35 it takes a moment to stabilize but stays within 2-3mph. I am pretty happy with how it works.
I also have "throttlemiesters" and the problem with them is that you can be going 55 or 80 depending on the hill you are on..
I would give the install a 7 on a 10 scale due to the fact that you have to splice into the electronics on the bike (tach and speedo sensors) Outside of that, the rest is pretty easy. I just mounted the cable to the pin where the fast idle cam rides and set the actuator in the cavity below the throttle bodies with a loop in the actuator cable. Probably not the most professional install but it works and I will probably have someone with a metal brake and some skills, fab a bracket for the thing.
I would look into the Audiovox100 first and talk to a few guys that have them (DR1300R has one?) It could very well be just fine and is a lot cheaper..
Install took about 2 hours (not including research and the legwork to get parts and the time it took to establish the dip switch settings (I posted all this information on a thread)
The unit is rock solid at 55+ and will show a 3-5 mph gain up and down some hills. At speeds above 35 it takes a moment to stabilize but stays within 2-3mph. I am pretty happy with how it works.
I also have "throttlemiesters" and the problem with them is that you can be going 55 or 80 depending on the hill you are on..
I would give the install a 7 on a 10 scale due to the fact that you have to splice into the electronics on the bike (tach and speedo sensors) Outside of that, the rest is pretty easy. I just mounted the cable to the pin where the fast idle cam rides and set the actuator in the cavity below the throttle bodies with a loop in the actuator cable. Probably not the most professional install but it works and I will probably have someone with a metal brake and some skills, fab a bracket for the thing.
I would look into the Audiovox100 first and talk to a few guys that have them (DR1300R has one?) It could very well be just fine and is a lot cheaper..
AudioVox markets 2 versions. The vacuum one like I have, and a full electronic which is identical to Rostra. The AudioVox fully electronic and Rostra are both made by Rostra, but the AudioVox verson sells for a few bucks less. But you are correct that the fully electronic units cost twice what the vacuum units do. Prices keep dropping on these things.
AudioVox
Rostra
You can find companies that sell "motocycle specific" cruise control units. These are going to be either AudioVox or Rostra units with "custom" mounts and instructions for specific bikes. The one's I've seen run double what the Rostra unit does. Like Mr Bogus said, the universal kits it can be fit to the Busa in an afternoon and there several members here that can assist with either the vacuum or full electronic installs.
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