Wouldn't restricted fuel give you a lean condition v. a rich condition ? I would have changed the oil and plugs, went for a good long ride and pulled and checked the plugs, but that's me.
Spark Plugs Slightly Wet- Diagnosis?
- Thread starter mattymatt716
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mattymatt716
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Restricted flow could cause rich condition if the injectors aren't working properly thus causing fuel to not ignite properly.
At this point, I think it is a fuel issue. I ordered the fuel strainer and, when that comes in, I will tear the pump down and clean it out. I will be sending the injectors out this week for service. Once they come back, then the new plugs will go in and re-test.
Anything else I should be looking at while this is all apart?
At this point, I think it is a fuel issue. I ordered the fuel strainer and, when that comes in, I will tear the pump down and clean it out. I will be sending the injectors out this week for service. Once they come back, then the new plugs will go in and re-test.
Anything else I should be looking at while this is all apart?
So, do you know the condition of the filter itself? I always see a bunch of posts about the filter being plugged and that's outrageous money to buy(at least I think is stupid expensive for a filter).
, do you
mattymatt716
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The filter definitely need to be changed (if you mean the strainer). It isn't as bad as I've seen, but debris is what it is. I wouldn't put it back in there without at least cleaning it out, and I haven't fully torn down the pump itself. I'm guessing it will be dirty. The new strainer should be here by Monday, and everything should be put back together early next week.
mattymatt716
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^^^ but, I still need to send in my injectors. Also next week.
mattymatt716
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I'm willing to pull the head- my biggest question is how to ensure that I don't screw timing up. I've never done that sort of work before (perfectly willing to read and learn, and I have the tools I'm sure), so I'm a tad nervous about pulling the head. If I pull the head, wouldn't I be better off with replacing pistons and rings?
According to a couple of locals, it is probably a fuel issue. If cleaning pump and injectors does not fix, then I'll probably take the valve cover gasket off and then go from there, digging deeper if necessary. Any advice on head work/removal would be appreciated.
According to a couple of locals, it is probably a fuel issue. If cleaning pump and injectors does not fix, then I'll probably take the valve cover gasket off and then go from there, digging deeper if necessary. Any advice on head work/removal would be appreciated.
mattymatt716
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Got the fuel pump back together again with the new strainer tonight. Put it back in and connected everything. New plugs, air filter, oil change, and then.... it started raining. For about3 hours. And, with a new rear tire (hasn't been on the street yet), I figured tonight would not be a good time to test anything out.
It may be because of the new plugs, but it does seem to run better right now. I still need to get the injectors sent out for professional cleaning. Hopefully this weekend.
It may be because of the new plugs, but it does seem to run better right now. I still need to get the injectors sent out for professional cleaning. Hopefully this weekend.
mattymatt716
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Shade- I would be interested, but I'm pretty sure they aren't the same.
mattymatt716
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mattymatt716
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Don't look too dirty to me...
You have both, a strainer that cost $55 from suzuki and the filter(canister looking one) that cost $260 dollars. No way to clean the filter since it's a sealed unit. Best you can do is back flush it or replace it. I'm having issues with hesitation on mine and have learn this info from messing around with it and researching the org.
P.S you are doing a lot of maintenance stuff, but makes me wonder how much all this is going to end up costing you since you haven't confirmed what exactly is causing your problems or if it's complete resolved. This approach can be an expensive one (ask me how I know).
mattymatt716
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I used probably half a can of carb cleaner to backflush the canister- it was pretty dirty and couldn't believe how much junk came out. I put it all back together and put new spark plugs in, and it ran a little better- probably only because of the plugs.
You are right, it is a lot of maintenance- basic maintenance that should be done anyway. I should be getting the injectors cleaned this week. If that does not fix it, then probably I'm looking at a dyne tune as most around me think that this is a bad tune issue. There's a significant amount of carbon buildup on top of the valves, but from what I have read, that isn't uncommon (not sure how that's a "normal" thing, though).
My neighbor, who really likes high performance toys (just brought home the newest, baddest Corvette- looks sooo nice!), said that the problem could be how I'm riding it. I rarely go past 5-6k rpms. High performance engines like to be run like high performance engines, he says. I guess that makes sense. If nothing else, now I have an excuse to "burn the carbon" out of it.
I'm not sure what other approach that can be taken, hence the reason I posted on the org to begin with. I was hoping that others have gone through this and know the fix (easy or not).
You are right, it is a lot of maintenance- basic maintenance that should be done anyway. I should be getting the injectors cleaned this week. If that does not fix it, then probably I'm looking at a dyne tune as most around me think that this is a bad tune issue. There's a significant amount of carbon buildup on top of the valves, but from what I have read, that isn't uncommon (not sure how that's a "normal" thing, though).
My neighbor, who really likes high performance toys (just brought home the newest, baddest Corvette- looks sooo nice!), said that the problem could be how I'm riding it. I rarely go past 5-6k rpms. High performance engines like to be run like high performance engines, he says. I guess that makes sense. If nothing else, now I have an excuse to "burn the carbon" out of it.
I'm not sure what other approach that can be taken, hence the reason I posted on the org to begin with. I was hoping that others have gone through this and know the fix (easy or not).
mattymatt716
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Sent the injectors off this morning. And have a slow HD to keep me company for the week.
I'll say this, though. Adding a HD to the stable may be in the near future. Too bad the 48's don't come with a 6-speed gearbox.
I'll say this, though. Adding a HD to the stable may be in the near future. Too bad the 48's don't come with a 6-speed gearbox.
mattymatt716
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I'm not completely sure that it's a fuel problem. I'm trying to systematically remove most obvious culprits to less obvious ones.
I'm not sure how to measure the fuel pressure; from what I've read, the compression numbers are going to be low since the motor is cold. They may be low, but they are consistent. At this point, I really think the issue is either the injectors or it is running too rich.
When I get the injectors back in (hopefully Friday), I will update for sure.
FYI- she really does run well when I get on it- no problems or hesitation. It's just at low rpm's and idle where she runs "off".
Thanks, everyone, for the help.
I'm not sure how to measure the fuel pressure; from what I've read, the compression numbers are going to be low since the motor is cold. They may be low, but they are consistent. At this point, I really think the issue is either the injectors or it is running too rich.
When I get the injectors back in (hopefully Friday), I will update for sure.
FYI- she really does run well when I get on it- no problems or hesitation. It's just at low rpm's and idle where she runs "off".
Thanks, everyone, for the help.
What we said. The cold engine thing is a non-issue. My Gen II numbers were in the 235psi range, stone ass set for a month cold.
13013
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Once again...Rings, valves, guides etc. etc. Do a leak down test as mentioned.
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