Spark plugs: a dummie's guide

[ajblbv]

Okay guys, so either tonight or tomorrow I am going to tackle changing the spark plugs just so I know what in there is good. According to the manual first thing I do is prop the fuel tank, depressurize it, remove airbox. Any tricks to any of that? Sounds simple enough.

Then before I pull each plug out, use compressed air to displace any debris.

Upon removal and new ones being put in (just bought stock ones) tighten to the proper torque (book has it not recalling off the top of my head).

Anything else to look for while I am under there?

 

[BA BUSA]

Torque to 8 ft lbs...put a bit of anti seize on the threads.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

The easiest way I've found to apply anti sieze is to use a tiny model car paint brush and lightly paint it onto the threads. No mess no fuss and NO over application of anti sieze.

 

[mymaster]

One at a time, you'll be fine.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

So, that's what sparkplugs look like.....

 

[Evil_keeps_me_young]

i have to do this soon also...

 

[mike1180]

Cover the throttle bodies with a rag before you blow out the plug holes.

Careful when you pull off and push on the coils - they break.

 

[mymaster]

So, that's what sparkplugs look like.....

 

[sessions]

after changin mine at 13000 it made my bike run like a diffrnet beast!

 

[b4thenite]

after changin mine at 13000 it made my bike run like a diffrnet beast!

O really?

 

[Mr Bogus]

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/82441-wrenching-101-a.html

 

[IG.]

Be slow and gentle. Do one plug at a time. Be aware when the plug is out and make sure not to drop anything in there.

Prior to removing the airbox, make sure to loosen the long bolts holding the airbox (they go at the throttle bodies - just look from the sides of the bike - they work similar to screws on your typical clamp), disconnect 2 connectors on the left, two small hoses in the middle and one tiny one, wiggle the airbox carefully - take your time, and when it gets really loose, there is another small hose at the bottom which you need to disconnect from the airbox.

Disconnect all plugs and the sensor - that's total of 5 connectors - prior to removing the plugs.

When pulling the boots off the plugs, do it by hand - wiggle them gradually and take your time until you can pull them out. Also, when putting them back, make sure they are seated all the way - apply some force by hand - if you don't push them all the way, humidity an dust may get in, not to mention the vibration can loosen the connection to the plug - good luck trying to figure out why a cylinder misfires once in a while.

I don't think there is any need to depressurize anything (unnless of course you have a turbo running while you attempt to take the airbox out, in that case just turn the engine off. Sorry, LOL).

 

[first vr4]

Don't forget to check the gap before installing new plugs.

 

[mike1180]

Don't forget to check the gap before installing new plugs.

That goes for standard plugs. All the rest leave the gap alone.
ie If they are the platinum or iridium - they are pre gapped and you wreck them if you touch the gap.

 

[valkyriemc]

No cross threading, don't force them. If it doesn't feel right -stop.

 

[AJAY]

All good advice above.

If you use anti-seize compound, use VERY LITTLE of it and keep it away from the threads at the very end of the plug by the electrodes. Many anti-seize compounds have metal in them. With all the heat, they can creep around the plug electrode and partially short it out.

For this reason, at least one of the plug manufacturers specify not to use anti-seize (forget which one, but also know Champion recommends it). I use a drop of Marvel Mystery Oil on my plugs.

 

[VetteNBusa]

Great thread AJ

 

[Hayabusa2005]

 

[runvs]

What plugs you going with ?

 

[coreywiley]

tighten the plugs with your hands first than use a wrench to torque them