Rotor's, Pad's, Lines...which?


V8N3T

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#1
Ok, so I am sure a lot of other members on the board have a similar question to this. Ive seen rotor's out there for over $580.00 for a front set, and over $200.00 for a rear rotor. Now my question is this, other than the fact of Brand name, What actually makes them better in braking power? What helps dissipate the heat better from the pads? How about the longevity of the rotor's? Do the lighter rotor's warp easier?

Also had a question in regards to the brake pad's. What is the best surface and material to pourchase for brake pads? Which last the longest, and which give the best "bite"?

And last question about braided lines. What is the difference between braided lines, and the stock lines? Which are the best braided lines, and what makes them the best or most efficient? After I get my bike back together and get all the cosmetic's fixed, I was looking at a brake upgrade in the near near future. And I have had these questions just floating around, and wanted some positive answers with some logic behind it. Thank you in advance for your explanation and reference's.
 

Wrath

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#5
Braided line should not expand as much as the stock, More fluid then travels towards the caliper. Softer pads wear faster & are queiter. Harder pads disapate the heat better but wear the rotor faster. What you buy should really depend on your ridding style. Canyons = Braided lines & hard pads & Quality brake fluid. Look at the boiling point of the brake fluid & make sure it's high temp for canyons. When brake fluid boils in your calipers it produces air. Air compresses & you lose stopping power big time!
 

ksheldon

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#7
I bought Galfer Wave rotors front and rear, Galfer SS braided lines and the pads that Galfer reccomended. It made a huge difference in feel and the bike stops considerably better. The rotors and lines look better too

Kent
 

Vspec

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#8
If you want the best  
AAAssjani.gif

Get AP Racing complete front setup 2 x floating rotors 2 x 6 pot Calipers and AP Master cylinder with goodridge lines.
Expensive but well worth the money  
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StreetnTrack

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#9
rotors range so differently because some are lighter then stock and some aren't. some are made for show and some are made for performance. you should get the pads the rotor manufactures recommend for your first set with the rotors. most determine there rotors by what color they can come close to matching there bike.

stainless lines will give you a better feel in your levers. usually color decides what brand you want.

email me if you need further details.
 
#10
By far, one of the greatest cost effective improvements you can make to your Hayabusa's braking system is the addition of EBC HH Sintered Brake Pads. These alone will yield the greatest improvement in stopping power.

Next, would be to add a set of steel braided brake lines. The rear doesn't even need the steel braided lines, but the front benefit from them, as that's where 90% of your true stopping power resides. My steel braided lines were purchased as a set for my birthday years ago, so I threw the rear steel lines on as well.

Rotors are more an expensive luxury than necessity, as the stock rotors work just fine with the HH sintered brake pads and/or steel braided brake lines.
 

tinbender0

Cool Breeze
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#13
(Quasar @ Sep. 27 2006,10:59) By far, one of the greatest cost effective improvements you can make to your Hayabusa's braking system is the addition of EBC HH Sintered Brake Pads. These alone will yield the greatest improvement in stopping power.

Next, would be to add a set of steel braided brake lines. The rear doesn't even need the steel braided lines, but the front benefit from them, as that's where 90% of your true stopping power resides. My steel braided lines were purchased as a set for my birthday years ago, so I threw the rear steel lines on as well.

Rotors are more an expensive luxury than necessity, as the stock rotors work just fine with the HH sintered brake pads and/or steel braided brake lines.
Hey quasar, when you replaced your pads with the ebc h's, did you leave the stock shims or did you take them out and just used the shim/heat disapator thingy on the ebc h 's...I didn't put the stock shims on, didn't think I was supposed to, But I've got a heck of a growling going on. I'm hoping that will go away once the pads seat. But there is a BIG difference in breaking power already.....
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Thanks
 

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