Another brake rotor thread...

JeffSyh

JeffSyh

Registered
So I did my brake lines and noticed my rear rotor is warped, I cleaned the calipers on front and rear just to check that it wasn't the issue, the front are completely fine and pads are good on the front. I already ordered rear brake pads, but the dealer wanted $280 for a rear rotor... mind you I am in canada. I've been looking around and there are a million different options I was looking for something a little better than stock (reliability longevity) without the massive price. I went through a few posts and people seem to like the galfers. The galfer wave looks ok and only $170 C. What do you guys suggest?
 
If you want stock, get a used one off eBay.

Want to upgrade and you like the look, pick up a rear one from Galfer. I loved the look of the Gen-I Galfer rear wave rotor but that's just me.

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+1 on the Galfer rear wave rotor. I've had one on my ZX-14 for about 13,000 miles and 11 years. Still in great shape. I wouldn't say it's a performance enhancement but it looks cool and it's 13 ounces lighter than stock on that bike. Probably about the same weight loss on the busa. This one looks nice too and I'll bet it's even lighter. For the price, I'd take the chance it might warp. I know somebody will flame me for going cheap on brakes but it's a dang plate of steel with holes in it.
www.motosport.com

Yana Shiki Rear Rotor

PFR Series Rotors are performance floating rotors that are slotted and drilled to give you maximum stopping power and a great custom look. Special Contour Disc - optimizes pad contact and performance. Premium Japanese induction hardened stainless steel (410-DB). Laser cut for perfection and...
www.motosport.com www.motosport.com

If you want LIGHT, go with a carbon fiber one. You'll have to search FB or something, I think you'll only fond them in Asia.
 
Personally, unless you have a very sophisticated brake system, a rotor is a rotor IMHO. Wave rotors are supposed to cool better, but every race bike has a full rotor drilled, Lol. Galfer is good, but any reputable manufacturer will do, even the OEM rotors worked fine with my first brake upgrade to Brembos (fronts, where the work happens).

Power is much less important than feel on the rear brake, and a rear setup should last forever in even spirited street riding. I don't see using carbon fiber on the street, as they require a lot of heat to work properly and most would actually have a worse brake performance with CF.

Rims 01.jpg
 
JeffSyh said:
My fronts are in very good condition I only need a rear I wonder if the tire shop dropped my rim on the brake rotor side when changing tires.
Click to expand...
That would be sad if they did...

If all you need is a rear rotor, I'd just go to ebay and get a stock one.

If you needed to change all three, it makes sense to buy them all at once.
 
JeffSyh said:
My fronts are in very good condition I only need a rear I wonder if the tire shop dropped my rim on the brake rotor side when changing tires.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure the rotor is safe from striking a level floor...definitely with the tire on. Maybe if it was dropped on something that was laying on the floor it would hit the rotor. I believe it would take a pretty hard knock to bend the rotor though. BUT ...last time I ever took my rims in to a dealership to change tires, I saw the guy throw the wheel with tire into the corner 3 feet away. It spun around like a top and came to a stop after a couple rotations. The president of the shop was standing right there. My eyes were the size of baseballs but I didn't say anything. The guy must know what he's doing, right? Pretty sure it was rotor side down...must have been because the sprocket would have hit the floor. Well, that was the last time I ever saw that guy at the shop and the last time I ever let anyone else change tires for me. I do it myself with tire irons now. I'm not recommending anyone do that because it is some extreme physical work and it takes me all day to do it safely and I still put some small scrapes on the beads of the wheels. Some say they can do both wheels in 30 minutes without much trouble but they must have done it a lot of times to get that good.
 
@Mythos I'm not sure what happened to it then, but it is catches in one spot when spinning the tire. I even pulled the caliper and rear wheel off again and checked it all. I took it for a fast ride didn't touch the rear brakes and the rotor is warm where the front were cool by the time I hit the garage.

@WuzzaCBXRider thats my old postal code but it's in the same city.

@bigoltool is that a direct replacement? I always thought a full rotor drilled is better than a wave rotor.
 
JeffSyh said:
@Mythos I'm not sure what happened to it then, but it is catches in one spot when spinning the tire. I even pulled the caliper and rear wheel off again and checked it all. I took it for a fast ride didn't touch the rear brakes and the rotor is warm where the front were cool by the time I hit the garage.
Click to expand...
I suspect you're correct about the rotor being warped then. I'd repeat the test and lift the rear up with a stand. If the rotor is still rubbing the pads, that looks mighty conclusive. To be absolutely positive, you'd need an inexpensive wheel balancing stand with cones and a cheap dial gauge and magnetic base from Harbor Freight. I'm sure an expensive dial gauge would be best but I trust the cheapy I have enough to give me a good idea of how much my rims, rotors and wheels are distorted for how often I need to check those things. One thing though, if the cush drive is real loose and floppy when removed from the swing arm, it will rock as you turn the wheel on your balancing stand. The wheel won't stay square to the cones and it;s pretty tough to get a reliable runout test.
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