Another brake rotor thread...

[JeffSyh]

I suspect you're correct about the rotor being warped then. I'd repeat the test and lift the rear up with a stand. If the rotor is still rubbing the pads, that looks mighty conclusive. To be absolutely positive, you'd need an inexpensive wheel balancing stand with cones and a cheap dial gauge and magnetic base from Harbor Freight. I'm sure an expensive dial gauge would be best but I trust the cheapy I have enough to give me a good idea of how much my rims, rotors and wheels are distorted for how often I need to check those things. One thing though, if the cush drive is real loose and floppy when removed from the swing arm, it will rock as you turn the wheel on your balancing stand. The wheel won't stay square to the cones and it;s pretty tough to get a reliable runout test. View attachment 1635204

The cush drives were perfect but I replace with sensi reds this winter. I'll have to replace it and keep an eye on it. Thank you for the help.

 

[Mythos]

The cush drives were perfect but I replace with sensi reds this winter. I'll have to replace it and keep an eye on it. Thank you for the help.

Replacing the rotor would be the easiest way to test and by the time you buy the other stuff, the price difference might not matter that much. The service manual will spec the runout tolerance. You could lift the rear on a stand and place a stick of wood with both ends in a fixed position against the rotor to view the difference between the high spot and the low spot. That would give you a rough idea of how warped the rotor might be. If the tolerance is hundreds of an inch, that might be tough to eyeball but if yours is way more, you know it's warped.

 

[JeffSyh]

I went with the bike master contour rear rotor! It was a good price $150 and seems better made than the more expensive ones I'll let you know how well it works (it's rear only so probably fine).