Rectifier/Regulator relocate to

Ok so after spending all night frettin over the ghost hose I found I decided to tackle something that is supposed to be straight forward and in the end create a cleaner look. I decided to buy a regulator/rectifier relocate bracket from Ebay by a co called Ball Z Motosports.

Ball Z Motorsports
08-09 Hayabusa Rectifier/Regulator Relocation Bracket!!:eBay Motors (item 380166603733 end time Dec-20-09 16:28:02 PST)

Item came as ordered and arrived within four days, super quick. Thanks Josh !
It is a very well made piece that comes with four nice stainless steel allen head screws.
Now for the install. First you have to remove tail piece. As this is a post regarding relocating rectifier I will leave that out and most know how to do it. Taking the tail off took about 20 minutes. Just be careful when you remove it if you dont disconnect wires first you have to unplug brake light and license plate light wires as well as undo the cable that unlocks the seat before you can separate bike from tail piece. Set the tail piece aside. Now on right side of tail frame you can see two unused threaded holes. These are the ones you will use to mount bracket. On the underside of bike remove belly pan with the one allen head bolt on the lower right side of bike as well as two push pins going to rectifier bracket. Then you can unbolt the two mounting bolts for the rectifier bracket itself. I highlighted these in pics with red lines. After undoing the bolts let it sit on your foot while you fight to unplug the two harnesses going to rectifier. People with smaller hands may find this easy but it took me about 15 minutes to get these undone. I don't do it often and I did not want to F anything up. After unplugging rectifier you can unbolt it from the bracket itself with a 12 mm socket. Separate the two and set them aside. Now you need to unclip the wires from frame. There are 3 clips holding wires to frame. One on the swingarm and two on the inside of right side of frame. Again these were a pita because I was learning as I went as did not want to break or rip a wire. The first one was fine but the second one on frame was diff. I did as a result have to remove the three bolts holding footpeg bracket to facilitate easier access. Some may not have to do this extra step. With footpeg bracket removed I could see the second clip from outside of frame thru a little hole. I used a screwdriver to push it out thru the hole. You can see this in pics. Ok so now you need to snake the wire harness with both plugs up and back toward new location. I snaked the wires thru an open space in front of rear res you can see in pics. I brought the wires back over and behind the rear res and laid them there. Now you can install bracket. Use a little loctite on bolts. You dont want to hear any vibes from loose screws and have to do it over. I show a pic of bracket on bike only for demonstration purps but I recommend mounting rectifier to bracket first and then install bracket as if you dont it will be diff to put bolts and nuts thru rectifier and secure them with bracket already screwed to bike. Make sure YOU RUN WIRES FROM RECTIFIER UNDER FRAME BAR as seen in pics. If not when you install tail piece it will pinch them. Again I show this in pics. After installing rectifier to bracket and bracket on bike you can connect harnesses and secure lines. I used three zip ties all shown in pics. Two on frame bar and one on short cross bar. Now I put back in the two original bracket bolts under the bike. I did this so I would not lose them and I dont like leaving threaded holes open on bikes. They rust up and when you want to use them you cannot. I also ran the two hoses that were now hanging low thru the space where rear shock attaches to its lower mounting position. I did this rather than cutting them shorter because I am still not sure I will leave all as it is now. I will let y'all be the judge on how it came out. There is still some question as to whether or not rectifier will get hot under the plastic. So far I let her idle for 30 minutes and put my hand on the plastic and it was cool to the touch. Need more riding evaluation to really make sure. All in all it took me about an hour and a half only cuz I was careful and not sure what I was doing. Hopefully from this if you do it , it will be easier for you. :thumbsup:
I think it has a much cleaner look now especially since my bike is white and silver you can see the diff more easily. Also I get to see another 6 inches on that BadA** pipe I got on there. :thumbsup:

On a private note the owner of Ball Z Motosports was up with me till 3 am last night wondering about the 'Ghost Hose' I found earlier. Emailing back and forth and helping as much as he could. I dont know much else about what he sells or makes but it made it apparent to me that he is the kind who cares enough to help others with something that has nothing to do with what they got from him. Good guy Josh is...:thumbsup:

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Got one connector off, second one is proving tricky.
I’d suggest putting it up front if you can. That’s where the Factory put it on the Gen 3.

Lessons learned from having it under the bike with all of the elements. In the rear there isn’t as much airflow and the generator puts out 70 volts. The regulator/rectifier dissipates the extra power as heat.