Rear sprocket tooth count.

BusaBenny

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Hello everyone. I had a 2008 busa with -1 on the front sprocket and I liked it. Now I have a new 2017 busa. However after searching I’ve been reading that it’s better to go +3 on the rear than -1 on the front due to chain wear and stress on the motor. So my question is will the +3 feel the same as the -1 ? And if so is +3 or +2 on the rear better ? I only do street riding and highway. Thanks

RedBull

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mabupa

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Hello everyone. I had a 2008 busa with -1 on the front sprocket and I liked it. Now I have a new 2017 busa. However after searching I’ve been reading that it’s better to go +3 on the rear than -1 on the front due to chain wear and stress on the motor. So my question is will the +3 feel the same as the -1 ? And if so is +3 or +2 on the rear better ? I only do street riding and highway. Thanks
I ran a plus +3 on the rear and loved the pull, but buzzy on the highway due to higher RPMs. I never ran a -1 on the front, but have always heard that -1 front = +3 rear

c10

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Stock is 18 up front on a 530 chain. Many bikes use a 17 or 16 on same chain with similar torque. Using a 17 is fine and lighter v's going plus 3 that normally adds rotating weight.

BusaBenny

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Stock is 18 up front on a 530 chain. Many bikes use a 17 or 16 on same chain with similar torque. Using a 17 is fine and lighter v's going plus 3 that normally adds rotating weight.
So doing 17 won’t stress the motor or wear out the chain? Thanks

BusaBenny

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I ran a plus +3 on the rear and loved the pull, but buzzy on the highway due to higher RPMs. I never ran a -1 on the front, but have always heard that -1 front = +3 rear
Yeah the buzzing is what I don’t want.

mabupa

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Yeah the buzzing is what I don’t want.
I’m assuming you felt the buzzing I’m talking about, if you ran a -1 on the front. I think the rpms run about 600 higher than normal. You can always go to that gear commanders website and punch in different sprocket sizes to compare

ROADTOAD1340

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The Busa motor prefers big front sprockets the best , ask anyone who runs LSR . So personally I like to leave my Gen 2 at 18 t front , for the ideal chain turn radius , even for stock Busa . For the rear , I really like the idea of a vortex super thick aluminum 530 46 t sprocket / standard tire or 190/55 , which is close to my setup of 200 / 55 tire plus 47t rear sprocket . I run this full time and personally love this gearing . The Busa is factory over geared , softened up to make it more accessible to all types of riders / owners , and this sprocket change brings it back to real world quick , everywhere .
If you are lite weight physically , then you can go the opposite way I guess with gearing , but my stocker with standard sprockets won't pull red in top quickly , with my ass onboard . But now it eats gears in acceleration and responds from any speed any rpm like a Busa should , and still has good top speed !!

Mathewrussell52

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I change out the front occasionally 17-19. When I want to feel fast I love the 17. But if I want to cruise the back roads around 100mph I love the 19.

Its all preference and fun to play around with. Front sprockets are cheap and not any more work to change than a rear.

RedBull

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I ran a plus +3 on the rear
and loved the pull ,
but buzzy on the
highway due to
higher RPMs .

I never ran a -1
on the front ,
but have always
heard that -1
front = +3 rear .




:fire:

Remember that @c10 is closer to 100 pounds than 200 ~ if you are fat like most of us add 2 out back *

Johnnie Phatt

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For what it's worth 19 being a prime number is in theory better for even sprocket wear.

Kiwi Rider

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For what it's worth 19 being a prime number is in theory better for even sprocket wear.
Did you just make that up?
How does a prime number value have any influence on wear and tear?
I know you said 'in theory', but what theory . . . please share . . . :confused:

Rocketmn

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Try going down 1 in the front only! It may give you just what your looking for..When I did it, it amazed the sh*t out of me. Wheelies are easier!

Johnnie Phatt

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In theory the sprocket teeth hook to a different link everytime. There is no matching of the teeth and links There will eventually have every tooth hook to every chain link and start all over again. But in theory with a divisible number the same tooth with grab the same links on a regular basis. It is supposed to promote more even wear on both chain and sprocket for longer life

RedBull

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In theory the sprocket teeth
hook to a different
link everytime .

There is no matching
of the teeth and links .

There will eventually
have every tooth hook
to every chain link and
start all over again .

But in theory with
a divisible number
the same tooth with
grab the same links
on a regular basis .

It is supposed to promote
more even wear on both
chain and sprocket
for longer life . . .


:beerchug:

sixpack577

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-1 front vs +3 rear are very close to the same overall gear ratio.
I have put a -1 and a +3 rear, individually and combined on 4 sportbikes. Including a gen2 Busa and B-King. Personally, yeah, I can tell if the -1 front is on there vs the +3, and I prefer the +3.
All I can figure is that it is the small difference in wheelbase, as the +3 shortens it and the -1 lengthens it.
It also isn't really noticeable until I ride wheelies, which is every ride. That's where I can feel a small difference.
It's no big deal either. And, as said, the +3 is better just because you're not making the front smaller in diameter, and making a tighter bend for the chain, but -1 doesn't cause problems either.
A friend of mine was -3 front on his 06 gsxr1k.
Bike never had an issue, and felt like a tractor, but was a wheelie toy anyway.
-1 And +3 combined feel stupid quick too, and are alot of fun, they just make for really twitchy wheelies and throttle response.
A -1 front And a +3 rear combined or seperate will also fit the stock length chain, so playing around with them is cheap and easy.
Individual or combined, they aren't going to cause problems. It just comes down to how You want Your bike to feel.
The -1 or +3 individually only raise the rpms around 600 too, so rideability is much the same, just with a little more lower rpm umph.
Either or both sprockets work great with an ecu flash too. More timing at lower rpm combined with lower gearing really makes the Busa more agressive, aka more fun.

ali123

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playing around with swapping sprocket sizes on bikes is like playing around with the rear end on a car.... or a prop on a boat...
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