QUESTION ON TPS (I already read the entire TPS search)

OB_valklex

Registered
For interested members as well, here is the useful TPS info I found: TPS is a black sensor on the left side of the throttle bodies (opposite to the throttle linkage). To check put the bike in TPS mode (clock LCD display). There is talk of a paper clip. There should be a dash in the middle at 1200 rpm and jump to the last line at 2000 and disappears at 2500 rpm. IS THIS CORRECT? Now: How in the world you ACTIVATE the dealer mode?.
If adjustment is needed, the sensor is on the left side of the throttle body assembly (opposite the throttle linkage). The black sensor has 2 screws that need to be loosened and the sensor moved to achieve above stated results. Torque screws and recheck, as the sensor can move during torquing.
This instructions were compiled from all available search info. Please correct if wrong. Any difference for Y2K bikes?
Thanks!
 
You activate the dealer mode with the paper clip. The paper clip takes the place of the mode select switch tool #09930-82710. This goes into a blank 2 wire plug located on the wiring harness somewhere under the seat (finding the first time can be tricky).

DO NOT LET THE BARE PAPER CLIP CONTACT THE FRAME OR YOU CAN FRY THE ECM!!! Take precautions (tape, rags, plastic sheeting) as necessary.

Manual says 'connect the special tool to the dealer mode coupler at the wiring harness and start the engine'. I think you have all else after this. Y2K bikes should be identicalto '99.

[This message has been edited by tinhead (edited 31 December 1999).]
 
Thank you very much for your time to post. I always feel in control of the bike when I understand how it works; it's a nice feeling when something is not adjusted perfect from the factory and you can adjust it exactly the way it should be. I really think that a serious motorcyclist always gets involved with his machine, and if something is not the way you like it, you know exactly what it is and how to fix it. Nice feeling, and I'm getting there thanks to you.
I'm sounding like a philosopher; Y2K is hitting me a few hours early.
Enjoy the celebration and leave your busa alone for a day: too many drunk drivers out there.
JC
 
Valklex, You might of missed this one in your search and I had it stashed as a text file.

Topic: Air Bypass Screws??
Bob Senior Member
posted 12 October 1999 09:21 AM

I was reading the Suzuki "New Model Technical Update Seminar Manual" and came across something i do not know. Hope someone on the site can help.
It has to do with the Throttle body Synch. After removing your air cleaner box and reconnecting your IAP, IAT sensors, and pluging the hose for your flapper.
IT states " Check and set, if necessary, the air bypass screws to one and one half turns out from the lightly seated setting."??
Where are the screws??

The update also gave a little more on the TPS setting procedure. Not a big deal though. After setting the dash on your LCD to the middle at 1150 rpm. It says that the top bar should display when engine is at 2000 rpm or higher.

Other tidbits:
Cam timing:
Intake open BTDC 32 degrees
Intake close ABTC 64 degrees
Exhaust open BBDC 49 degrees
Exhaust close ATDC 30 degrees
If I did this right that means the Intake center is 103 degrees and the exhaust 99 degrees. I would like to set these cams up at maybe 105 intake and certainly higher on the Exhaust side. Time to check the specs from Kawabuser's post on the Yosh cams.

"Pintle" fuel injectors are used unlike the TLR's and GSXR's. This means one output hole at the tip instead of two. A FOG like spray leaves this type of injector.
Clutch Capacity is higher for the BUSA. The Busa's is 150 mm in diameter and can handle 34 kgf.m The GSXR750 25 kgf.m and TLR 28 kgf.m
The power assist/back torque limiting feature has higher pressure plate force than the TL1000SV clutch. The back torque feature has less pressre plate release than the TL1000SV clutch. Meaning--grabs harder on acceleration and less on deceleration.

Clutch plate thickness and order:
A. drive plate number one. thickness 3.0mm x 8 plates
B. Drive plate number 2 thick. 3.8mm x 2 plates
C. DRIVEN plate number 1 thick. 2.0mm x 7 plates
D. DRIVEN plate number 2 thick. 2.3mm x 2 plates
The stacked plates should measure 50.2 plus or minus 0.5mm when stacked with 5 kg on top of them.

They claim that the chain was made special for for this bike. 1 gram lighter per link (112 links total) plate yet same strenght as a race chain. In the notes section in bold it states DO NOT USE a standard 530 chain on a GSX1300R. I know a lot of you will disagree.

Ignition: The ign system is controlled by maps based on throttle position, engine rpm, and gear position with additional input from the coolant sensor. An ignition map is provided for the first and fourth cylinders, and another for the second and third
cylinders, plus a separate map for each gear-a total of 8 maps. SPARK DURATION-500-600 micro second GSXR750 and TLR 100 microsecond. The BUSA has 8 reluctor bars machined on the outer diameter of the generator rotor instead of only 4 like the TLR or 750. This means quicker reaction to changes in rpm. (crank position sensor)

Drag coefficient or CdA is .270 smoothest ever for Suzuki. The GSXR750 is 8% worst their next best though.

SMOG PUMP or PAIR--Fresh introduced into exhaust to continue burning Hydrocarbons.Reduces HC and CO by 50%
DOES NOT USE ANY ENGINE POWER!!

Connecting rod length 119.5mm, combustion chamber volume 18.8 cc.

Enough already. I thought i would give a little information in exchange for an answer to my question.
Bob
 
Valklex.. Just went thru the same process as you with my '00.

The connector in buried down the side of the ECM under the drivers seat. It's white with a black cap and two wires coming out of it. I fished it up thru the pillion seat. There's another black one whose function is unknown. Sounds like you have the fixit procedure OK. My bar was pegged at the top, an error.
 
Lyle, it was buried exactly in the same position. I left it more accessible from now on. When I hooked it up, it was a "-" on the left and a "CCO" afterwards that didn't change. The "-" was in the middle even when I dropped the idle to 800 rpm (never went to the lower position). It jumped at the top at 2200 rpm. What is this telling me? I thought that there were like 7 positions, not 3. I guess we should be adjusting the sensor at 2K then and forget the 1200. Am I right?
 
If you want to really get this right put a PC2 on it and connect your lap top...you can then tell for sure whats going on. The other plug you see is where you would remap with a yosh box or your suzuki dealer would connect to check your system.....the factory tps plug is only around 10 bucks and is a lot easier...get it ...
 
Valklex
The mode plug is located on the left side of the bike beneath the rear plastic (where the GSX1300R decal is)Its got a little black rubber cover over white plastic.
I can e-mail you a copy of the procedure if you need it.
ramair1@flash.net
Bob
 
Valklex

I hope the code CC0 is a typo on your part. It should be C00. If not a typo you have a much larger problem. There are only 3 positions for the bar. In the middle at 1150 rpm and up at 2000. Once that's done it's calibrated. Are your plugs properly gapped ??
perhaps that part of the problem. That's where I'm going next.

My shop manual explains this in detail can I fax you the pages on Monday ? lrussel@newholland.com .
 
I think it was "COO" Lyle; I didn't pay too much attention but I'll check it next time. Those pages will help a lot (I'll send you an e-mail later, thanks). I never saw the lower line, even though I dropped the idle to 800, so I assume it's of no importance. I definitely going to check the plugs as well when I strip the bike at 600 miles (any trick in removing the coil/connectors from the plugs? I don't want to damage them). I was also thinking on replacing the plugs with the dual electrode NGK's someone posted earlier; What do you think about that?
 
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